The ever-ongoing Red Chili build

AxleIke

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No those filters work awesome. I’ve used it with galvanized, grinding, etc. nary an issue. It fits better under the helmet in my opinion (both my Miller pro hobby and my Lincoln Viking).
 

Rezarf

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I believe the yellow means it's zinc-chromate, which gets you both the zinc and the chromate toxicity so you're doubling your chance to get metal fume illness! I'm too old to worry about being cool so I always wear a respirator when grinding and welding. I have the 3M pancake P100 masks that fit OK under my hoods.

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And for stick welding I'd definitely wear a mask, the flux burning off just stinks anyway.

Yeah Isaac and I are probably overly OCD about it but do keep a little notebook to jot down settings. It's less frustrating to at least give yourself a starting point when you change between metal types and thickness and stuff.

I just sharpie the data for settings, speed and thickness that work right onto my workbench... works like a charm. :thumb:
 

Squishy!

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slightly derailing the thread...


Are you kidding? I go back to this thread all the time for this kinda stuff! Hijack away! My pictures usually bring it back on track. You guys are way too smart to not grace my humble thread with your expertise.
 

On the RX

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3M told me to use 2097 or 2297 (the difference being the 2297 has longer useful life and resilience to damage) for all types of welding including stainless.

https://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/5188O/3m-particulate-filter-2097-p100.pdf



Could it be that they are just the highest level that fit on the masks and under the helmet? To get a yellow/magenta would be the full size 60923 cartridge and those wouldn't fit under my welding helmet. Does that fit under yours? Perhaps they are assuming the ventilation reduces fumes to nuisance level. Not sure to tell the truth.
I should have prefaced my comment with the fact that I have about 5 hours of total time welding and have never used a filter system. My experience comes from my environmental work and overseeing abatement projects where people were torching cast iron to remove asbestos from a power plant's generators. They used a combo filter with the back snorkel attached to a Scott fullface. I used a powered full face with combo filters.

If a particulate is your concern then the p100 will offer the best protection. If your concerned with gasses then you need to have something with activated carbon to absorb the gasses.

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On the RX

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Correction... the best protection is scba (self contained breathing apparatus). P100 is the best filter for particulates.

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DaveInDenver

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I should have prefaced my comment with the fact that I have about 5 hours of total time welding and have never used a filter system. My experience comes from my environmental work and overseeing abatement projects where people were torching cast iron to remove asbestos from a power plant's generators. They used a combo filter with the back snorkel attached to a Scott fullface. I used a powered full face with combo filters.

If a particulate is your concern then the p100 will offer the best protection. If your concerned with gasses then you need to have something with activated carbon to absorb the gasses.
Indeed, having a supplied air or powered air is better.

But are you saying 3M's suggestion is wrong? What should I (we) be using, realizing that a 60923 won't fit under a hood and PAPR or SAR hood is prohibitively expensive? 3M's literature says P100 filters welding fumes up to 10x PEL limits (for a APF of 10 IOW). So it would unlikely meet an 8-hour unventilated exposure but for 15 minute exposure for casual welding it should be fine.

I'm also confused, I think you're saying the 'P' means particulate but in NIOSH speak that indicates oil resistance (technically oil-"P"roof) in a respirator. A 'N' means "N"on-oil resistant and R would be oil "R"esistant. The N/R/P designation is irrespective of it's color code. The 2097 I thought does have carbon, just not as much as a full cartridge so it doesn't carry the same exposure length as a yellow would.

Correction... the best protection is scba (self contained breathing apparatus). P100 is the best filter for particulates.

What it boils down to for me is 3M, Miller, etc. have CDC/OSHA P100 approval specifically as welding respirators including stainless and galvanized so I can't imagine they are totally ineffective for fumes, which are classed as HEPA fine particulates to 0.3 micron according to the literature. What's in the fumes, mist, smoke or gaseous vapor or is it coalesced aerosols and particles?

What does it consist of that require the use of a vapor respirator? Welding isn't primarily vaporizing the material, it's melting solid metal into liquid so what the filter is catching is the condensation and dust. IOW, a small version of slag and spatter. There may be some material that truly vaporizes, I don't know the phase points for all the alloys and components.

Obviously for all day, every day welders the use of supplied or powered air seems more necessary but is 3M misleading about casual welding? This seems like a question of magnitude. Painting bumpers in your garage just needs a mask, painting cars in a booth 40 hours a week would need more. You're safe as long as you use the suggested PPE for the process and exposure time.
 
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AxleIke

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PAPR and other supplied air is really only needed if you are welding all day inside a factory or big tank, especially on something nasty. If you have decent ventilation, or if you are outside, I'd recommend the respirator for galvanized or similar, but otherwise, its just personal preference.

In my amateur opinion, a respirator that fits under the hood that takes 75% or whatever out of what your lungs take in is better than none, and the hood isn't optional, so go with what fits.

Anyway, back to the regular scheduled program.

Justin, for your premier, you may want to grab some 6010's and start practicing. That electrode should work well with the premier (its a DC machine, correct?). Its also pretty good at digging through rust and dirt and whatnot, which is likely to be found during a trail repair. Its not easy (I don't care for stick and struggle with it personally), and the 6010 can be a challenge, but if you can master that, you'll have no trouble.
 

On the RX

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As I understand it, the media is resistant to oil so that will not diminish its effects to filter the particulate. I am now uncertain as to what the hazard is for welding... as far as PELs over an 8 hour day, I would say that unless your welding in a small enclosed area without ventilation for extended periods of time, then you won't come close to exceeding the limits. I myself like to stack up on the PPE as cancer is very prevalent in my family. But I also don't see myself donning a half mask for some quick welds.

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AxleIke

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There are a number of hazards. Particulate is certainly one. It’s often iron or magnesium oxide with MIG but depends on the wire type. However, arc welding produces significant UV radiation which produces ozone. Ozone is a strong oxidizer and is not a good thing to breathe.
 

AxleIke

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But you are absolutely right. A few minutes out doors occasionally isn’t a big deal. Probably get worse exposure on a hot summer day in Denver traffic.
 

Squishy!

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The rear is in! Thanks to Jackson for the help Monday figuring out my flange situation. Turns out my old 4th gen slip yoke was a perfect fit for the tube and pinion flange. On to the battery issues!

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AimCOTaco

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You're double diamonds make me very happy so you must be ecstatic! So nice man!
 

Squishy!

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Squishy!

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Got a bunch done and now I’m sleepy.

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Squishy!

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More progress tonight! I’ve heard it said before and I can agree that fabrication is cheaper than therapy. I’ve been really needing the recharge that honing technical skills can bring. Even though I’m far from a great welder, it brings me joy to create the things I see in my mind.

Philosophical musings aside here’s what I accomplished:

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74fj40

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Looks good man. Drawers next?
 

Squishy!

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Squishy!

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She is on the road again! Jackson’s gears are smooth as can be and I dare say the truck drives smother all around from what I remember.

I installed some LED headlights and installed my wireless accessory power management system. I also repaired my light bar. (Thanks Nakman!)

We went to the Toytec customer appreciation event and man it felt good to drive the Chili. Manual transmission, supercharger whine and all the “holy crap!” looks from other cars. (I know I’m a bit of a show off what can I say :shrug: )
 
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