Here is a great potential resource for folks:
And for any future information seekers the other plug number is 90980-11194
And for any future information seekers the other plug number is 90980-11194
Putting a locked 99 OE LC axle in a 2000 Land Cruiser
- Thread starter Shuksan
- Start date
What’s the black part that the blue plug is attached to?
Stuckinthe80s
Rising Sun Member
Brian, I hope to have my Hundy over to the shop in the next couple of weeks to begin scavenging everything off of it. The locker is toast but all of the wiring and the ECU will be up for sale when that happens
Brian, I havent' fully caught up here but when you order the "plug" you may just get the plastic housing as the pins, seals, etc are separates.
Also, IIRC the 2 pin connects into the locker harness and then further up stream you'll have the larger 6 pin that includes it all.
Don't slam it home with 12 volts in testing or you can jam it... either set it up to use the limit switches or just use a 9v battery to bench test the motor.
Again just breezing throught this but I'd say cut a factory plug off a junk truck and use that underneath and then use an aftermarket locker control.
Sweet project, rear locker really bumps the capabilities of the 100!
Also, IIRC the 2 pin connects into the locker harness and then further up stream you'll have the larger 6 pin that includes it all.
Don't slam it home with 12 volts in testing or you can jam it... either set it up to use the limit switches or just use a 9v battery to bench test the motor.
Again just breezing throught this but I'd say cut a factory plug off a junk truck and use that underneath and then use an aftermarket locker control.
Sweet project, rear locker really bumps the capabilities of the 100!
I ordered a harness kit from 12voltguy that should be plug and play. He worked with me to find the right connector plugs. I might still be interested in your computer and switch though Nic.
'98-02 have the same gear ratio. There was a switch in '03 with the switch to the 5 speed transmission. So 98/99 into a '00-02 is fine.
There is an issue with the weak '98/'99 front diff being a 2 pinion design. I believe a number of folks in the club are familiar with this one... @DanielChase @Stuckinthe80s , but it is really just an excuse to put a front locker in.
On a related note, my neighbor helped me get the axle into the garage and its not a light sucker. Also, I have started buying some cheap parts, but I need to test the locker before I start the full clean up. Just no time until probably mid July.
So been a long time since I updated this thread. Mostly because I have just been too busy to get around to this project. But I was inspired to get this done.
Brake lines:
Back in the early fall I pulled all the brake lines off the donor axle and took a bunch of pictures to figure out the differences. From mud I knew that the 98/99 axles have one soft brake line coming down to the axle which T's to two hard lines to both calipers. This is because the 98/99 land cruisers did not have ATRAC, so no need to differentially brake the rear wheels.
On my 2000 LC two soft lines come down from the frame to a bracket. Then hard lines go to each side. The donor axle does not have the two holes to mount this bracket.
This wasn't something I wanted to deal with day of swap so I just bought an extra one of these brackets to know where to drill holes. Then I drilled holes and painted.
I need to take a picture of this when it is light out.
Brake lines:
Back in the early fall I pulled all the brake lines off the donor axle and took a bunch of pictures to figure out the differences. From mud I knew that the 98/99 axles have one soft brake line coming down to the axle which T's to two hard lines to both calipers. This is because the 98/99 land cruisers did not have ATRAC, so no need to differentially brake the rear wheels.
On my 2000 LC two soft lines come down from the frame to a bracket. Then hard lines go to each side. The donor axle does not have the two holes to mount this bracket.
This wasn't something I wanted to deal with day of swap so I just bought an extra one of these brackets to know where to drill holes. Then I drilled holes and painted.
I need to take a picture of this when it is light out.
I pulled both axle shafts to inspect them. At this point I had kinda gotten to the point of not going overkill and rebuilding everything before installation. I just wanted to get it in. If I need to replace or repair stuff down the line I will address it then... We'll see how this goes for me...
Both shafts appeared fine to my novice inspection and the seals inside the axle housing didn't look obviously damaged. I bought a couple seals, so I have them should I need to replace in the future, but decided not to do it at this point. I cleaned everything up and put the axles back into the housing so I could test the locker actuator. Took the 12V guy wiring harness and hooked it up to a bench battery. Connected plugs. Hit the switch and... NOTHING... Oh wait the switch is goes two ways, other way I can hear the locker engage and the wheels turn the same direction!
Ok. Everthing seems good to go. I recruited my buddy Scott to come give a day to get this job done. We started early with coffee and a trip to HF. Then started removing the current rear axle. Wheels, brakes, rotors, shocks, wheel speed sensors, brake lines, sensor lines, drain diff, pull axles, lower arms. Lunch. Drive shaft, upper arms, text neighbor to help us lift new axle down onto dollys, slide it in place, connect everything back in reverse. Also put in new to me lower arms and lower arm skid plates. Torque everything that matters and called it a day. About 6 hours with two people and no major complications.
Still needed to readjust parking brakes, fill diff, test drive, monitor for leaks, install wiring, and go wheel.
I also realized my upper arm bushings were toast so I will replace them. Leaning towards OE uppers from partsouq (~$230 for both shipped from the other side of the world)
Both shafts appeared fine to my novice inspection and the seals inside the axle housing didn't look obviously damaged. I bought a couple seals, so I have them should I need to replace in the future, but decided not to do it at this point. I cleaned everything up and put the axles back into the housing so I could test the locker actuator. Took the 12V guy wiring harness and hooked it up to a bench battery. Connected plugs. Hit the switch and... NOTHING... Oh wait the switch is goes two ways, other way I can hear the locker engage and the wheels turn the same direction!
Ok. Everthing seems good to go. I recruited my buddy Scott to come give a day to get this job done. We started early with coffee and a trip to HF. Then started removing the current rear axle. Wheels, brakes, rotors, shocks, wheel speed sensors, brake lines, sensor lines, drain diff, pull axles, lower arms. Lunch. Drive shaft, upper arms, text neighbor to help us lift new axle down onto dollys, slide it in place, connect everything back in reverse. Also put in new to me lower arms and lower arm skid plates. Torque everything that matters and called it a day. About 6 hours with two people and no major complications.
Still needed to readjust parking brakes, fill diff, test drive, monitor for leaks, install wiring, and go wheel.
I also realized my upper arm bushings were toast so I will replace them. Leaning towards OE uppers from partsouq (~$230 for both shipped from the other side of the world)
Today I went to fill the diff with fluid. Went with Valvoline 75W-90 synthetic to reward them for realizing they should put this stuff in squeezable bags. However, when i pulled the drain plug to get last of old oil out I found a few small pieces of metal that were not just shavings...
There were just a few small pieces like this. Not junks that were clearly gear teeth or anything. These could be bent easily and were quite soft.
Thoughts? Am I destined to have to pull the 3rd member and replace bearings?
I did fill the diff and drove slowly around the block. No obvious sounds or issues. Everything seems to behave as it should, so time will tell. I plan to drain the fluid again soon and see what it looks like. Hopefully no more pieces.
There were just a few small pieces like this. Not junks that were clearly gear teeth or anything. These could be bent easily and were quite soft.
Thoughts? Am I destined to have to pull the 3rd member and replace bearings?
I did fill the diff and drove slowly around the block. No obvious sounds or issues. Everything seems to behave as it should, so time will tell. I plan to drain the fluid again soon and see what it looks like. Hopefully no more pieces.
Better picture of the metal pieces that came out of the diff.
Interestingly these look similar to pictures Lee posted on Mud, but he had the housing drilled. Drill shavings was the explanation there.
forum.ih8mud.com
Interestingly these look similar to pictures Lee posted on Mud, but he had the housing drilled. Drill shavings was the explanation there.
Metal shavings in rear diff oil
So I decided to change my rear diff oil today. It’s been about a year and 10k miles since the initial change at 500 miles after having gear and locker install. Oil looked great but I found some shavings after cleaning the magnet on the plug. They are very small, paper thin shavings almost like...
forum.ih8mud.com
It doesn't take much to pull the 3rd.
I'd pull and inspect.
If you dont want to, fill it, send it and change in a few hundred miles and inspect.
I'd pull and inspect.
If you dont want to, fill it, send it and change in a few hundred miles and inspect.
Since I just put new oil in yesterday, I think I will let it go a little bit then drain and inspect.
Originally I was going to open the pumpkin, but I ended up draining the diff fluid out the axle shafts (kinda an axident) and it looked so good I didn't think much more on opening the diff.
The fact you say it's a soft metal is odd.. I wanna know exactly what it is first and then decide it I'd run it or not.
Chunks off of a plug magnet maybe?
Chunks off of a plug magnet maybe?
It is pretty easy to bend and pretty thin. Imagine they were little cut up pieces of a soda can. Maybe just a little thicker.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Are they magnetic? I'm racking my brain...
Joey with Wits’ End posted something that from memory was really similar not long ago. I believe he determined that the housing had not been properly cleaned up after it was drilled for the 3rd member studs. I looked for his post but didn’t find it.
I don’t recall if he said the pieces were flexible. Like Marco asked are they magnetic? Did the housing have any obvious signs of being opened in the past?
I don’t recall if he said the pieces were flexible. Like Marco asked are they magnetic? Did the housing have any obvious signs of being opened in the past?
Yes they are magnetic. I thought they could have been a chewed up crush washer that someone somehow shoved into the diff, but being magnetic kinda rules that out.
The hypothesis from that Mud post and your anecdote from Joey are probably cases where an aftermarket locker was installed and the housing had to be drilled. This is an factory locker, so that seems less likely. I guess it could've been from the factory housing drilling, but again unlikely.
I will probably try to get a couple hundred miles on it over the next week, then drain and maybe open up the diff.
Thin and magnetic sound like it could be part of a shim... can't think why a stock diff would have such light shims however.... part of a bearing cage maybe?
Hang on to that junk and bring it to a meeting for show and tell.
Hang on to that junk and bring it to a meeting for show and tell.