LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Ya Martin. That was my case as well. There Was a ‘78 K10 Blazer MC on there. It worked but was last thing to change to get back to all Toyota. Hopefully the Mr T big bore MC works as well as the Chevy!
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OG2 (1967 FJ40 – Refurb’ Thread - Help Gladly Accepted)
- Thread starter LARGEONE
- Start date
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Closer.
I also had to lengthen the push rod about 1/2” by welding a bolt onto the end, and then cutting to length.
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Got her all buttoned up with new MC, but I still don't have a hard pedal. I have to pump it a couple of times to get pedal...once I get it, she stops really well. I guess I have some more bleeding to do? I feel pretty comfortable that there is no air in the master since I bench bled it a bunch.
Looks pretty stock now, which is way better looking than the Chevy MC that was on there.
You can see where I ran the rear line over the top of the vacuum 4X4. I used a union which you can see on the left side in order to be able to fit it in there. The old system had a union down lower, so I feel pretty comfortable with this setup on the rear. It looks really clean with the new lines.
Looks pretty stock now, which is way better looking than the Chevy MC that was on there.
You can see where I ran the rear line over the top of the vacuum 4X4. I used a union which you can see on the left side in order to be able to fit it in there. The old system had a union down lower, so I feel pretty comfortable with this setup on the rear. It looks really clean with the new lines.
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MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Looking great Paul.
What did you use for the pcv hose and valve cover breather tubing?
What did you use for the pcv hose and valve cover breather tubing?
simps80
Rising Sun Member
Did you do the one man bleed/flush?
Money.
Gatorade bottle and some plastic tube
Money.
Gatorade bottle and some plastic tube
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Wish I could help on this Martin but both of those hoses have been on there for many years before I got the truck from Dan.
I did. But I obviously did it wrong.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
That’s what I was gonna say. Air will mean slightly spongy no matter what. Maladjusted drums will mean a few pumps and a nice form pedal. You can sometimes hear the shoes moving if they are creaky... especially them moving back to their spots after you let go of the pedal. Try tightening gem up then driving then tightening a bit more. You’ll want a bit of drag when you are done and they will wear in to a nice right setting. I get fooled when the shoes don’t come up square to the inside of the drum but feel right. That’s why I’m suggesting a bit of a drive to let them wiggle back to their natural spots
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Why would the drums and brakes change from before with the other master cylinder if I didn’t touch the drums or brakes at all? The only thing I changed was the master. I didn’t remove any wheels. What am I missing?
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Good point, Maybe they are adjusted right...
Did you eliminate a residual pressure valve?
moving shoes out to the drums should only take a pump or two really.
maybe it is air.
Did you eliminate a residual pressure valve?
moving shoes out to the drums should only take a pump or two really.
maybe it is air.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Does removing the fluid pressure cause the drum cylinders to have to be adjusted again? I guess that’s the question.
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
If your drums are adjusted as tightly as possible, then I wonder if your new custom push rod is too short or not adjusted correctly?
I was incredibly frustrated on my '78 FJ40 after doing a rear brake job. I replaced the MC and the wheel cylinders, and after days of screwing around, I set the rear drums so tight they were dragging more than a little, and that was what it took to get a solid brake pedal. After a week of driving, the new shoes finally settled in and after a bit more fiddling, the truck stopped straight and the brake bias (F-R) was as good as it will ever get on a truck like this.
Beware - many years ago, I replaced the rear brake shoes on an '89 4Runner and the rear brakes were so tight that I roasted the shoes and one drum (warped), and had to do the job over. So, you CAN set the shoes too tightly from the git-go.
I was incredibly frustrated on my '78 FJ40 after doing a rear brake job. I replaced the MC and the wheel cylinders, and after days of screwing around, I set the rear drums so tight they were dragging more than a little, and that was what it took to get a solid brake pedal. After a week of driving, the new shoes finally settled in and after a bit more fiddling, the truck stopped straight and the brake bias (F-R) was as good as it will ever get on a truck like this.
Beware - many years ago, I replaced the rear brake shoes on an '89 4Runner and the rear brakes were so tight that I roasted the shoes and one drum (warped), and had to do the job over. So, you CAN set the shoes too tightly from the git-go.
RicardoJM
Hard Core 4+
Fuel hose, just get the appropriate inside diameter and have the parts store cut it to length. There is oil and fuel fumes along with the air moving through that hose. Coolant hose won't hold up over time to those elements.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Good info. The hose coming off the valve cover into the air intake seems to be a pre-formed hose. But the PCV hose is just free form.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
I adjusted the the MC push rod where it has about a 1/16" play before starting to push the MC. The MC engages immediately so I don't think this is the issue.
On these old drums, there are two spots that have to be bled (total X8). So many bleed points!!!
On these old drums, there are two spots that have to be bled (total X8). So many bleed points!!!
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
So I bled again this afternoon and did all 8 cylinders again. Didn’t help. Still requires double pump. But on the second pump my brakes REALLY WORK! So, I am going to try to adjust the wheel cylinders to get them pushed as far out as possible and see if I can get that same awesome pedal on the first push. Weird that it would require this with a new master, but I guess the “throw” and volume of fluid pushed could vary quite a bit between the two master cylinders?
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
I`ve never met a manual, 4 drum vehicle that didn`t need a double pump to really lock up the brakes.
ccslider
Hard Core 4+
My buddy had an old 67 cuda that had drums all the way around. He always told me to give the brakes a few good pumps when first driving it. You weren't really sure which way it was going to pull.I`ve never met a manual, 4 drum vehicle that didn`t need a double pump to really lock up the brakes.
I like to bleed brakes with a hand vac pump. They make caps that will pressure bleed from the master too. Heard great things about those.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
I have a handivac but the problem is that every bleeder valve on my truck is a different size. The hose on the vac is too small for some and too big for others. Such a pain doing 8 cylinders.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Finally got some time yesterday to adjust my brake cylinders again. I made them really tight, and finally got some stopping on first pedal stroke. I think I may still have some air in the lines, but it stops well enough that it doesn’t scare me to drive it.
I ended up putting new rear drum brake pads on it because one of my old ones delaminates when I was trying to force the drum back on. At some point I will probably need to look into getting new cylinders to replace a few of the ones that are really difficult to adjust?
I ended up putting new rear drum brake pads on it because one of my old ones delaminates when I was trying to force the drum back on. At some point I will probably need to look into getting new cylinders to replace a few of the ones that are really difficult to adjust?