OG2 (1967 FJ40 – Refurb’ Thread - Help Gladly Accepted)

[LARGEONE]

Yesterday, I kind of got tired of having to turn the key 3-5 times for my starter to engage, so I put in a temporary replacement (hoping to rebuild original) that I picked up for $20 at the RS Swap Meet last year.

Starts immediately now. Gotta try to find a rebuild kit for the old one...maybe Kurt at Cruiser Outfitters has a kit?

 

[LARGEONE]

I guess in the next few weeks, I have to decide whether to get back to work on the rocker panel, and these....

Or, do a job that I dread way more...and have no idea even how to do it...

Would probably make more sense for me to get the thing running better, but man....I am really afraid of opening that box. Literally!!! I don't know the first thing about carburators...time to watch pinhead videos and get after it, I suppose?

 

[LARGEONE]

Before I go any further, I should also give a huge THANK YOU! to Mike Simpson (SIMPS80) for helping me learn a lot more about the timing, how to set the timing, etc. He really helped me figure out that my carb is TOAST. We were able to determine that the idle set screw was completely missing and the only thing that was holding the idle was the high idle screw for the choke. So, I found an idle screw with spring, and at least have it idling and the choke working correctly now.

It's still running like crap Not really...just never seems to have the right mixture for the moment.

The timing was set so far advanced that the bead didn't show in the window. Is that too far???? We (I should say Mike convinced me) felt that we should put the timing at 12 (edge of the window) and see if we could get it adjusted there. It definitely liked more advanced timing, but how much is too much?

Now, it runs OK, but only after it is really warmed up. On first start, it almost wants to fart!

 

[simps80]

You gotta get it to idle off the idle circuit and then go from there
No carb tuning will be effective without a real idle.
Then you can see if you transition slot fuel

I don’t think you have vacuum trouble I really don’t based on the few mins on that vac gauge we had... but it’s still possible

But you know my opinions already on that and the timing
Will be good to hear others weigh in that have tons more experience than I do!!!

Great job btw on all these projects you post up.
Helps keep some of us motivated digging around
Looking for our way out Of these rabbit holes!!!

Btw
Between that tuneup and getting the points gapped right seems to have fixed my bad trouble that you saw/felt
So THANKS for the 1f fsm that was the ticket

 

[MDH33]

Nice job guys. Tear into that Carb Paul, it's super easy and fun, you'll learn a bunch! Get a bucket of carb dip, the FSM diagram, a bunch of old toothbrushes and some guitar string to clear the tiny passages. Be prepared though, there always seems to be pieces missing, and the carb kits never seem to have all the parts you really need. Have fun.

 

[LARGEONE]

I don’t think you have vacuum trouble I really don’t based on the few mins on that vac gauge we had... but it’s still possible

Btw
Between that tuneup and getting the points gapped right seems to have fixed my bad trouble that you saw/felt
So THANKS for the 1f fsm that was the ticket

So glad to hear the FSM helped. I think it is going to help me a ton on the carb stuff as well! I also agree on the vacuum....while its not high (wasn't it like 12?) it didn't bounce around at all.

 

[LARGEONE]

Nice job guys. Tear into that Carb Paul, it's super easy and fun, you'll learn a bunch! Get a bucket of carb dip, the FSM diagram, a bunch of old toothbrushes and some guitar string to clear the tiny passages. Be prepared though, there always seems to be pieces missing, and the carb kits never seem to have all the parts you really need. Have fun.

Thanks, Martin! This Keyster kit has quite a few items in it....but I wish it had some of the linkage springs, as they seem kind of worn out. Do I just get the Carb Dip at any auto parts store?

 

[MDH33]

Thanks, Martin! This Keyster kit has quite a few items in it....but I wish it had some of the linkage springs, as they seem kind of worn out. Do I just get the Carb Dip at any auto parts store?

Yes, its usually a 1 gallon paint type can and has an immersion basket in it so you don't lose tiny parts in the bottom.

 

[LARGEONE]

I started a separate thread for discussion on jet sizes....but it is too late for backing out now!

OG2 Carburetor Rebuild - Jet size help & advice

There is no turning back now... Originally, I was trying to figure out whether to rebuild the "extra" carburetor I bought from Ige, or rebuild the one that has been on the truck. Ige's carb is a January 19, 1971 build date, but it is missing the "throttle positioning lever" and a few other...

risingsun4x4club.org

I just need to figure out what jets to put in the carb when its all clean and ready for re-assembly? Martin...if you're lurking, do you remember whether you chose the jets when you rebuild the carb for Dan? Or, did your kit not have jets and you just reused what was in there? THX.

 

[LARGEONE]

Ok...so I got a little distracted

I got the carburetor rebuilt, but I was waiting on some parts so I decided to clean up around my leaky valve cover gasket. I have a "valve cover gasket" (more on this) on order but Toyota must be shipping it by train! I got in touch with Derek, and he told me he would check on my SIDE cover gasket. I said "What? I thought I ordered a valve cover gasket!". Nope. FJ40 Rookie mistake by me...and one I knew better about. Always check the part number and order by part number!!!! Toyota calls the side cover gasket the valve cover. The actual valve cover is called something like "Cylinder Head Cover Gasket".

Oh well, I figured I would take the time to clean up a couple other things, since I'm also waiting on a new temperature sending unit from Toyota, and the extension tube to use the longer sending unit, from VintageTEQparts (ordered 3 weeks ago and still not here!!!). The early gauges will only work with the early Temp Sending Unit. So, to get my stock gauge to work, I need to change back to the '67 style sender...mine is currently the one from the '74 engine which makes my gauge work BACKWARD. When I start the truck it goes straight to HOT and as it warms it works its way left to the cold. Has something to do with the voltage readings, I think?

Anyway, I have the the valve cover off and cleaned up, and everything is ready to go back on.

 

[LARGEONE]

Still not sure why some pictures from my iPhone are loading sideways. I've tried everything!

I also used this opportunity with the air cleaner and carb off to tighten all of my manifold bolts to spec. We were unable to reach some of them when I had the OG over at the mechanic's house (Simps80). But we did do a compression check and adjust the valves. Engine sounds great. Compression numbers were all around 100. Not great, but not too bad at altitude.

 

[LARGEONE]

Well...at least I now know how to rebuild an early 2bbl carb! I have an awesome looking carburetor and a really nice looking engine now.

Unfortunately, it still runs the same as it did before

I was really thinking my vacuum was OK, but I must have a leak. It doesn't bounce around a lot, but I'm only getting about 12 In-Hg. The symptoms are chugging (sometimes even a backfire) under load at low RPM. Once it gets past the lower RPM, it takes off normally with plenty of power. If I stay at the higher RPM, it does well.

Today I tested the mech advance on the distributor (old school retard distributor), and I think I'm getting up to about 22 deg advanced at around 2300 rpm (from 11 deg at idle), so an additional 11 degrees at 2300 rpm.

I am still not idling on the idle circuit, as the mixture screw really doesn't affect much, even all the way turned in. I'm going to cap off the 4x4 vac system and take that out of the equation, even though I'm pretty sure the leak is around the intake manifold. I tightened the bolts for the intake, but it did not help.

More fun ahead!

 

[MDH33]

Where is your distributor vacuum connected?

 

[LARGEONE]

Nowhere. It is a retard type and is capped off.

 

[simps80]

By the way @nakman that pic reminds me I need a new gamiviti sweatshirt
In unrelated news, also need some Rogaine with Minoxidil

 

[LARGEONE]

By the way @nakman that pic reminds me I need a new gamiviti sweatshirt
In unrelated news, also need some Rogaine with Minoxidil

Haha! I was thinking Nakdude owes you for the free advertisement

 

[subzali]

Is your idle solenoid working?

 

[LARGEONE]

Is your idle solenoid working?

100% sure. I bench tested the solenoid w 12v.

Today I sprayed everywhere around the manifold with no change in rpm. I covered the carb with my hand and it spit gas and shut down.

what else can cause low rpm bog under load and backfire? Once I get to 50mph I could cruise all day and runs like a top

 

[simps80]

Is vacuum still thlow?

Could be burnt valves etc

Leak down is harder than compression test but not that bad. Will likely tell you it needs yanked and built

Alternatively:
Bump that timing and run it

These are 45 to 50 yr old engines that somehow are still running pretty good

 

[LARGEONE]

Vac at 12. Doesn’t bounce around much.

Sprayed water all around the intake manifold w no affect. Had a hard time spraying underneath the intake but soaked enough that it should have sucked some in.

Going to check solenoid Mounted to confirm it is getting 12v and clicking. Then going to see if I can get mixture screw to shut engine down when turned all the way in.