-
JULY 2025 CLUB MEETING
Hi Guest: The next RS meeting will be Wednesday, July 2, 2025 at 7:30 p.m.
LOCATION: The meeting will be held at Cruisers and Company. Click here for details and directions.
⦿ If you are eligible for club membership, please fill out an application in advance of the meeting and bring it with you.
OG2 (1967 FJ40 – Refurb’ Thread - Help Gladly Accepted)
- Thread starter LARGEONE
- Start date
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Mike S helped me adjust the valves, so I think I'm good there. I just can't get it to idle off the idle circuit. I've check so far:
1) Backed off all idle screws on linkage.
2) loosened the accelerator cable to make sure it had slack so that it wasn't affecting throttle.
3) Confirmed power to solenoid and click when key turned to ON position.
4) Tried putting idle screw where idle was like 450 and turned idle mixture both ways with little to zero effect.
I'm starting to wonder if I'm hearing a click in the solenoid, but maybe it is not actually actuating when installed in the carb? It actuates fine when I had the solenoid pulled from the carb. Or, would I not hear a "click" if it wasn't pulling back?
Anyway, since it was so much fun, I'm half tempted to rebuild the '71 carb and see what it does on there
I think it is jetted appropriately at least!
EDIT: solenoid is functioning as it should, and the engine is in fact idling off the idle circuit.
1) Backed off all idle screws on linkage.
2) loosened the accelerator cable to make sure it had slack so that it wasn't affecting throttle.
3) Confirmed power to solenoid and click when key turned to ON position.
4) Tried putting idle screw where idle was like 450 and turned idle mixture both ways with little to zero effect.
I'm starting to wonder if I'm hearing a click in the solenoid, but maybe it is not actually actuating when installed in the carb? It actuates fine when I had the solenoid pulled from the carb. Or, would I not hear a "click" if it wasn't pulling back?
Anyway, since it was so much fun, I'm half tempted to rebuild the '71 carb and see what it does on there
I think it is jetted appropriately at least!EDIT: solenoid is functioning as it should, and the engine is in fact idling off the idle circuit.
Last edited:
It’s probably not the solenoid if it’s running. But your carb must be getting fuel from somewhere besides your idle circuit if adjusting the idle circuit does nothing. Can you pop the air cleaner off and look down the throat of the carb and see if fuel is dribbling from the top somewhere?
Check the adjustment on your secondary linkage:
forum.ih8mud.com
Testing of the carburetor secondary throttle valve
Half way through reading this I already suspected your secondary wasn't fully closed. That plays havoc with the idle. I was just telling a new customer in TX about this scenario yesterday.
forum.ih8mud.com
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Try spraying brake cleaner all over the gasket surfaces it might be better at teasing out a leak. I forgot what my vacuum looked like with a gasket leak but I think it was lower. Also forget what I get now with the head done and good sealing
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
You are correct. The solenoid is fine. And after checking more, it is actually idling off the idle circuit. When I look down into the carb, there is no fuel coming from anywhere that you can see. And the pump works as it should.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
With the truck running quite well now...(THANK YOU to all that helped with the carb and timing!!)...I decided to get back into some body work. The only pieces that I had in the garage were the running boards/steps. So, I straightened them out in the vise where they had been used as sliders 
and I started repairing the captured rust spot on the right side step. The picture on the truck shows how bent the step was When I took it off.
and I started repairing the captured rust spot on the right side step. The picture on the truck shows how bent the step was When I took it off.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
I got a little boost this morning, when I read through my original post. I have fixed nearly every item listed in “The Bad” section. I just got the proper temperature sender yesterday to fix my temp gauge, so that was one of the last things to fix to get everything working like it did in 1967!
I still have the rear main seal leak, but it will be a while before I can get to that. I’ll do some more body work on the fenders, rocker panels, and roof in the meantime.
Driving it almost daily at this point....at least for all of my local errands.
I still have the rear main seal leak, but it will be a while before I can get to that. I’ll do some more body work on the fenders, rocker panels, and roof in the meantime.
Driving it almost daily at this point....at least for all of my local errands.
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
Those early running boards are desperately weak (by design). They'll look so nice when you're done, however!
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
I really love the look of the early running boards, when they are redone. My biggest issue with this truck is what color to paint them before putting them back on. The truck is an odd beige color, not a Toyota beige that I can tell. I tried to match it with custom paint but it is not that great. And it is not the color I would paint the entire truck if I were going to do that. So, I'm kind of stuck in the middle. Maybe I will primer it and just put a couple top coats on just to protect them? Or, maybe I'll just leave them off until I decide?
In the meantime, I fixed my backward working Temperature Gauge, so my original temp gauge in the cluster works perfectly now. I also changed my thermostat while I had the coolant out of the head. The truck just wasn't warming very quickly, so I thought maybe the Tstat was stuck open? NO change. Oh, well.
Just to document for others...the temp sending unit changed sometime in 1972 to the shorter version (top picture). The longer sending unit was used up until then. And, they give different voltage readings, so you have to match the sending unit to whatever year gauge cluster you have, or change out the gauge in the cluster to match the sender. In my case, the longer sending unit would not fit into the head using the seat that was in the engine and I had to order this longer one from VintageTEQparts.com. It took a long time to get it from ToyotaMatt, so plan accordingly if you have to make this modification for a later engine.
In the meantime, I fixed my backward working Temperature Gauge, so my original temp gauge in the cluster works perfectly now. I also changed my thermostat while I had the coolant out of the head. The truck just wasn't warming very quickly, so I thought maybe the Tstat was stuck open? NO change. Oh, well.
Just to document for others...the temp sending unit changed sometime in 1972 to the shorter version (top picture). The longer sending unit was used up until then. And, they give different voltage readings, so you have to match the sending unit to whatever year gauge cluster you have, or change out the gauge in the cluster to match the sender. In my case, the longer sending unit would not fit into the head using the seat that was in the engine and I had to order this longer one from VintageTEQparts.com. It took a long time to get it from ToyotaMatt, so plan accordingly if you have to make this modification for a later engine.
Last edited:
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
An infrared thermometer might be useful in determining where and why your engine isn't getting hot. I presume you put in a 180F thermostat and all needed rubber gaskets (if applicable) around the thermostat itself.
Since your running boards have the vinyl top and are at a 90 degree angle to the tub, I don't think a slightly different shade of beige would look bad. Beige is pretty forgiving of slight shade differences, as I learned when the paint shop did a lousy job on my FJ45 paint match. You can always remove and repaint later.
Since your running boards have the vinyl top and are at a 90 degree angle to the tub, I don't think a slightly different shade of beige would look bad. Beige is pretty forgiving of slight shade differences, as I learned when the paint shop did a lousy job on my FJ45 paint match. You can always remove and repaint later.
RicardoJM
Hard Core 4+
How long does it take to warm up?
Even with a heat riser installed, my 40 would take a long time (compared to any fuel injected vehicle I own) to warm up. The whole routine of choke to start the engine, sit in it idling for minutes, feather the choke for the first few miles is one aspect of the carburetor that I don't miss. It was certainly fun and enjoyable to be in control and to see the response to the actions I took - but that novelty wore off after a few years. All that to say, yours may be just where it needs to be with the amount of time it takes to warm up. Remember the fuel system is early 1970's technology and parts - things have changed in the intervening 50 years.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Thanks, guys! I don't think it is much more time than it takes my diesel truck to get warm But it is definitely longer than my other vehicles.
All gaskets are in, and the Tstat is working as it should holding it around 180. It was running hot before with the old radiator, but this new radiator is really cooling well. I put a piece of cardboard in front of part of the radiator and that has helped.
The new original gauge working has definitely shown me that my aftermarket temp gauge reads about 20 degrees low...so that's good to know.
But it is definitely longer than my other vehicles.All gaskets are in, and the Tstat is working as it should holding it around 180. It was running hot before with the old radiator, but this new radiator is really cooling well. I put a piece of cardboard in front of part of the radiator and that has helped.
The new original gauge working has definitely shown me that my aftermarket temp gauge reads about 20 degrees low...so that's good to know.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
If you're not needing the heaters, closing the heat valve on the firewall will get the engine temp up quicker since you're not cycling the coolant through the heater cores. Mine is seized open. As soon as it warms up here i`ll start going through the cooling system.
Keep it up, I'm enjoying your progress!
Keep it up, I'm enjoying your progress!
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
I do this as well...mostly because I can (with the custom heat valve I made)
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
This week I got itchy and started cutting
I cut out the driver side rocker rust, which unfortunately was deeper than it looked from the outside (isn't it always)! I had to cut off the outside edge of the floor pan and recreate that with some new metal.
Tomorrow, I will grind and get a skim coat of filler on it.
The passenger side should go MUCH faster now that I know what needs to be done to fix it.
I cut out the driver side rocker rust, which unfortunately was deeper than it looked from the outside (isn't it always)! I had to cut off the outside edge of the floor pan and recreate that with some new metal.
Tomorrow, I will grind and get a skim coat of filler on it.
The passenger side should go MUCH faster now that I know what needs to be done to fix it.
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
While I was waiting for paint to dry, I got bored and removed the old Chevy K10 Blazer master cylinder. I decided since Mark A in CA has a $100 minimum for his orders, I would just make an adapter for my Toyota MC to mate up to the old triangle pattern. I cleaned up the firewall a little bit, and had my wife's uncle help me machine an adapter. We made this adapter from a chunk of 1/2 inch steel, using his mill for the large push rod hole. Then, I rounded the edges with a sander, and used gun bluing acid to color it.
Now, I just need to flare my lines and bleed the brakes (AGAIN!!!).
I also finished up the paint on the rocker, and welded up the holes where the old seat frame was attached in the under seat tool box.
Now, I just need to flare my lines and bleed the brakes (AGAIN!!!).
I also finished up the paint on the rocker, and welded up the holes where the old seat frame was attached in the under seat tool box.
Last edited:
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Looking great! nice job! MC adapter is super cool too! If you can make another I'm interested. 
simps80
Rising Sun Member
meh dual circuit brakes are for schmucks
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Yeah, mine needs replacement anyway. Some kind of aftermarket unit on there and they changed out the flair fitting to match so I get to replace the hard line too. Brakes work except for parking brake, so its low on priority list.