Official Synthetic Winch line Splicing Thread

[Corbet]

You are conflating issues. Line shortening vs. line connecting.

Sorry miss read above on shorten/connecting. The video you posted does show a rolled up magazine between the two straps. I’d love to see a photo of the same with winch line.

I know the science behind the shorter rope length on the winch drum. But I’m still sticking with full length based on my needs historically. Far more often I have not had enough verse wishing I was more layers down.

I can always shorten the main line off the winch.

 

[Inukshuk]

Sorry miss read above on shorten/connecting. The video you posted does show a rolled up magazine between the two straps. I’d love to see a photo of the same with winch line.

? the mag was between two straps. Unlikley I would use a line lock to shorten the actual winch line attached to the drum. To get to the first wrap when there is too much line on the drum I would use a double line pull or a re-direct. When one has a short line attached to the drum, you use extensions to go farther and line shortening techniques so your pull is on first wrap of the drum. Easier to demonstrate than write about.

I know the science behind the shorter rope length on the winch drum. But I’m still sticking with full length based on my needs historically. Far more often I have not had enough verse wishing I was more layers down.

I can always shorten the main line off the winch.

I just don't get stuck.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Sorry miss read above on shorten/connecting. The video you posted does show a rolled up magazine between the two straps. I’d love to see a photo of the same with winch line.

The tangent was my fault for using a photo of Bill Burke demo'ing how to shorten a rope. That whole thing should be sent down the memory hole.

You need a rolled up magazine, dowel or something else that can take the compression in the eye-to-eye scenario for a couple of reasons. One is to help with the sharpness of the bend but also when you connect two straps or rope eyes like that you make a knot that when tensioned will be pretty much impossible to untie without something in there.

 

[Corbet]

I just don't get stuck.

 

[Corbet]

So my new winchline arrived and I need to get eyelets and such to start building my lines.

Has anyone invested into the special “needles“ some use for splicing.

And I found these large eyelets. I wish they had a full tube but thoughts? There is not a weight rating but they are from a rigging supplier. Larger eyelet offers a larger bend radius and bigger hole for easier rigging. This would be for an extension line https://www.uscargocontrol.com/products/stainless-steel-thimbles-heavy-duty-type-304-3-8-25-pack

otherwise I’ve been looking at these. Both main winch line and extension. https://www.e-rigging.com/3-8-7-16-stainless-steel-tubular-thimble

 

[simps80]

Yes
Kind of worth it
First post in this thread referencing one of the others

It’s not a ton of money for doing a job once and stashing in the kit for later

which method for dyneema/amsteel blue splice?

I have a question, I finally got my warn 12k winch back, and am ready to load it with 3/8 amsteel blue I bought a few years ago on the Travis @baja1d group buy.... I am making an extenaion with two tube thimbles, and then the main ljne terminated with a factor 55 splicer thimble. my question...

risingsun4x4club.org

 

[Inukshuk]

Normal to not see a weight rating on a thimble. Thimbles just go by size.

If by "special “needles“" you mean a fid, yes, and I just use the simple inexpensive plain type and some electrical tape. If I was buying a set I might try a Selma fid set. The F55 Fast Fid is cool, it works, but its not perfect either.

I just have soft eyes on all my lines now. While there is some trade-off on abrasion protection, its simple to put on a removable velcro sleeve like this one on Amazon that you can cut short bits from as needed to go in an eye. And if an eye is damaged, cut it off and splice a new loop. I don't even have a winch hook right now.

 

[Corbet]

Anyone made their own soft shackles yet? It would seem $25-35 in materials per would be about right.

Better Soft Shackle

l-36.com

 

[rover67]

Yes, I've made a bunch of them. It's a fun project. Lots of videos on how to do the knot. You need a decent length of rope to do it.

 

[Inukshuk]

Anyone made their own soft shackles yet? It would seem $25-35 in materials per would be about right.

Better Soft Shackle

l-36.com

Yes, I've made a bunch of them. It's a fun project. Lots of videos on how to do the knot. You need a decent length of rope to do it.

For sure do it, if it is fun.
I have been trained to examine a soft shackle for a "mechanically set" knot and a rating tag.
If you know the rating of the rope, you can arrive at your own rating of the soft shackle.
The remaining concern I am aware of is knot creep. Setting the knot is the step called locking in Corbet's link. Vise grips can't compare to forces from a 12,000 lb winch. He is locking from the knot tail side. The application force is on the opposite side of the knot.
I'm not trying to dissuade anyone and I'd like to hear how it goes and how you manage the knot.

Here is a video I have watched before.Remember that these guys are tying for climbing/high-lining. Life is at stake but loads are far less.

View: https://youtu.be/91_jEjQdlBU

 

[jps8460]

I’ve made a bunch, but after discussing the necessity of “setting the knot” with Chris Cole founder of safe extract, I threw them in the trash. A loose knot is a no-go do to the creep mentioned above by Daniel. I think I have one laying around that I use to show the difference between a self tied knot and a professionally set knot by tapping them on my hood.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I’ve made a bunch, but after discussing the necessity of “setting the knot” with Chris Cole founder of safe extract, I threw them in the trash. A loose knot is a no-go do to the creep mentioned above by Daniel. I think I have one laying around that I use to show the difference between a self tied knot and a professionally set knot by tapping them on my hood.

So how do they set them professionally (or at least done commercially) and what assures that it's safe? I do know there are claims by some vendors on being suppliers to NGOs and military units (e.g. Safe-Xtract) and if that's true there must be I assume some sort of process and inspection criteria.

 

[Inukshuk]

So how do they set them professionally (or at least done commercially) and what assures that it's safe? I do know there are claims by some vendors on being suppliers to NGOs and military units (e.g. Safe-Xtract) and if that's true there must be I assume some sort of process and inspection criteria.

I do not know. I will see if I can find an answer.

 

[Corbet]

Starting to really appreciate my nice screw pin steel shackles again.

 

[jps8460]

Starting to really appreciate my nice screw pin steel shackles again.

I carry soft shackles so I can show folks that have already purchased them how to use them. I use them very rarely myself.

For setting a knot, bubba rope used to have a video. I can’t find it anywhere now. It was basically a fixture that they would restrain the knot in and apply a load to the legs in order tighten the not.

From our conversation a properly tied and set knot will cause an ultimate strength failure at the noose. However if the knot is loosely tied, the knot will become the failure mode.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Starting to really appreciate my nice screw pin steel shackles again.

I have a one (ASR commercial FWIW) because I do think there's scenarios they are probably the right choice. For example rigging that is out in space where a steel shackle could be accelerated quite a lot. But at fixed points I'm of the mind that inspected (anyone with a pair of micrometers can check their own shackles), rated and potentially proof tested is better. I selected ASR's soft shackles since there is company history and they put a load limit tag on it.

 

[Inukshuk]

“all Safe-Xtract Soft Shackle knots are proof-loaded to 40% of the MTS/MBS (double the overhead lifting WLL) in order to tighten/set the knot after splicing. Beyond that, the entire production process is documented per ISO-9001:2015 requirements, ensuring maximum consistency.”

 

[Inukshuk]

I have a one (ASR commercial FWIW) … I selected ASR's soft shackles since there is company history and they put a load limit tag on it.

ASR Is the manufacturer for safe Xtract, building the Safe Xtract product to Safe Xtract specifications. ASR branded items are good.

 

[DaveInDenver]

“all Safe-Xtract Soft Shackle knots are proof-loaded to 40% of the MTS/MBS (double the overhead lifting WLL) in order to tighten/set the knot after splicing. Beyond that, the entire production process is documented per ISO-9001:2015 requirements, ensuring maximum consistency.”

Are they suggesting their soft shackles are overheaded rated?

 

[Corbet]

Those of you who have used the deep bury method what did you use for the stitches? A plastic yarn needle? What kind of string?