Official Synthetic Winch line Splicing Thread

Hulk

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I have some 3/8" Samson AmSteel Blue winch line from the 2017 group buy that I need to make into an extension. I also need to hack off 50-60 feet of my 125-foot 3/8" Viking Trail Line and make that into an extension as well.

Let's use this thread to assemble resources on creating synthetic winchline extensions and installing synthetic on winches.

Just purchased the following:
  • Miller KS 1 Kevlar Shears
  • The Splicing Handbook, Third Edition: Techniques For Modern And Traditional Ropes by Barbara Merry
  • Samson Splicing Manual
I know I can just watch YouTube videos but I have a desire to learn a little bit, hence the books.

Other threads to read:
 

Hulk

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Samson Rope has an iOS app to provide splicing instructions. (Suck it, Android users.)
 

Hulk

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rover67

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So what's the preferred set of splices/locking method on either end of the rope? I did a loop around my eyes and the recommended bury and taper using a bic pen (colored pencil actually) then I locked it with a wrap of electrical tap because I was in a hurry to make a rope when i needed it. I'm gonna redo it now..

I'm thinking Locking Brummel on both ends with the thought that I can cram one of the eyes through the rope once finished.
 

DaveInDenver

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@rover67, there are a few pointers in this thread:
https://risingsun4x4club.org/xf/threads/which-method-for-dyneema-amsteel-blue-splice.28707/

In it I mentioned I just did a regular full bury with a lock stitch and sailmaker's whip. This splice doesn't reduce the rope's strength while the Brummel does because it's technically a knot. The number that jumps to mind is 37% derating but I'll have to see if I can find the reference again.

IMG_0177_mid.jpg


This is about how far my bury is.

IMG_0178_mid.jpg


I'm running 5/16" Amsteel Blue on an XD9000 so I was a little concerned about it (5/16" is rated 12,300 lbs). I'm planning to spool on 3/8" eventually and might go to a Brummel when I do. The advantage of a Brummel is that it's inherently locked so the splice can't creep like a straight bury, which is why a lock stitch is mandatory with it.

IMG_0179_mid.jpg
 
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3rdGen4R

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@rover67, there are a few pointers in this thread:
https://risingsun4x4club.org/xf/threads/which-method-for-dyneema-amsteel-blue-splice.28707/

In it I mentioned I just did a regular full bury with a lock stitch and sailmaker's whip. This splice doesn't reduce the rope's strength while the Brummel does because it's technically a knot. The number that jumps to mind is 37% derating but I'll have to see if I can find the reference again.

View attachment 83795

This is about how far my bury is.

View attachment 83796

I'm running 5/16" Amsteel Blue on an XD9000 so I was a little concerned about it. I'm planning to spool on 3/8" eventually and might go to a Brummel when I do. The advantage of a Brummel is that it's inherently locked so the splice can't creep like a straight bury, which is why a lock stitch is mandatory with it.

View attachment 83797

You ever willing to get together and show a newbie where to start?
 

DaveInDenver

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You ever willing to get together and show a newbie where to start?
I'm happy to help but I am definitely not an expert. Watch the videos, read the references, it's not really that hard. What's important is having something very sharp to cut and trim and take your time. FWIW I use one of those Factor55 universal fids but I would recommend not spending money on it and instead get regular fids or using a pen (that works just as well).
 

rover67

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Well for my extension (3/8”) I decided finally to redo my splices with two locked Brummel splices. One end was easy since it was open/not splices on the other so the regular method worked. But when I got to my second splice at the other end of the rope I used a method that works with one side of the rope fixed. It worked great!!!! One end using normal method:

E04C50E9-302E-4F76-B438-E0D7EC2B1114.jpeg
2315D9E6-EB9F-4B72-9EE5-9657365B8875.jpeg



And the second end using the method that doesn’t need the other end of the rope passed through:



And here is the result:

028F2137-6205-42C0-B732-4B42332E14D7.jpeg
 

rover67

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You ever willing to get together and show a newbie where to start?
I'll second Dave's comments. This is a situation where getting a section of rope and doing a few splices is actually not only pretty simple but actually kinda fun. I sat on my rope for months because I wasn't feeling like I knew how to do it but finally but the bullet when I had to have the rope. It was not bad. Reading more and wanting to do more permanent splices brought me here and was when I decided to do the locking brummel splices.
 

3rdGen4R

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That being said I'd show you at least how to a simple one around a campfire

I think you’re right. Just watch the videos and read the tutorials and see what I can accomplish myself. I think this would be a fun workshop to do in the winter time as a group of people.
 

simps80

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get good shears, those kevlar ones were worth it. only way i could get a good taper. lost a foot of amsteel dickin with other tools. also got a hot cutting tip for soldering iron that works too, but i like the shears

they also cut seatbelts, so i leave my "kit" in the front door pocket.
 
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DaveInDenver

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In it I mentioned I just did a regular full bury with a lock stitch and sailmaker's whip. This splice doesn't reduce the rope's strength while the Brummel does because it's technically a knot. The number that jumps to mind is 37% derating but I'll have to see if I can find the reference again.
I wanted to revisit this statement because it was thrown out arbitrarily. The retained strength of a winch line in this case is going to the weakest link, which is very likely the way the working end eye is made to terminate in a thimble.

Rope is rated based on testing and the manufacturers have to put eyes in their test ropes to mount them on the machine and when they do it's usually a simple long bury with 12-strand. So by default whenever you use a long bury you *should* have 100% of the rope's rating.

synthetic rope breaking force test.png


Using a different splice will reduce from that and in this case Marco (@rover67) is using a Brummel, which is not unusual in winch lines but not as many other places (like arborists, ships, etc.) in this specific application. The closest I've personally found is when loggers make whoopie slings they terminate one end with a Brummel and the other is a long bury for the adjustable exposed tail.

whoopei_sling_update_1024x1024.png


One example of how to tie is here at Sampson:
https://www.samsonrope.com/docs/def...c2_whoopie_sling_amsteel_amsteel-blue_web.pdf

In that document they use a Brummel for the fixed eye and say the sling itself can be used to 70% of the rope's rating.

I've read other documents testing whoopie slings that were on the order of 85% to 90% of the rope's rating. This chart comes from "Running Lines and End Connectors for Synthetic Rope to Reduce Logging Workloads" from research done at Oregon State by Dr. John Garland.

Screen Shot 2020-02-13 at 8.41.37 AM.png


Exactly why all this is gets way off the point into even deeper esoterica but suffice to say I haven't been able to find information to my understanding that explains specifically how or, indeed, if a Brummel used in this way really does reduce capacity from the rope's rating.

However, a Brummel is technically a knot and those have an understood effect on rope strength.

Screen Shot 2020-02-13 at 8.54.28 AM.png


So I assumed the worst based on Sampson's instruction of 70% (e.g. 30% reduction) and that any knot results in at best 80% of the original strength in my decision to use a long bury and have no question.

Also, the main point is that 37% has no relevance at all. Completely unsupported value that I probably misapply anyway.
 
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DaveInDenver

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Dave, you freaked me out with your statement: "so I assumed the worst based on Sampson's instruction of 70% reduction in my decision to use a long bury"

I don't think it's a 70% reduction.... its a 30% reduction with the Brummel.

From the linked document:

"AmSteel and AmSteel Blue Whoopie Slings have a break strength of 70% of the published average rope break strength"

So for 3/8 Amsteel Blue which has a published Min of 17,600 lbs that's reduced to 12,300 with a Brummel.

Anyhow, lesson is if you want max strength just use a simple deep bury with something to lock it.
LOL, I realized I had a typo so you must have read a pre-edited one. :) I'm also not sure it's a freak-out-able thing anyway. But it does I think go to deciding whether to use 5/16", 3/8" or perhaps even 7/16" with a very built 80/100/200 for your winch line and how it's spliced.
 
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Bub

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I would be interested in participating in the 2020 group buy. I do not have permissions to follow the link. This is Bryan from Wasatch Cruisers, Daniel also knows me from chasing in Baja.
 

Inukshuk

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I would be interested in participating in the 2020 group buy. I do not have permissions to follow the link. This is Bryan from Wasatch Cruisers, Daniel also knows me from chasing in Baja.

Hi Bryan @Bub . This spool is complete and its easy to order more. Its not such a huge savings over buying premade ropes as might justify the distance to SLC. Works out to $1.85/ft but you still need fids, thimbles, etc and time.

FYI @Hulk I also bought shears.
@DaveInDenver where did you buy your gusseted tube thimbles?
 

Bub

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Thanks for the reply @Inukshuk. I will probably just order what I need then. Not looking so much for saving as I am the experience and some spare rope to try various splicing technics. You're previous work and research is greatly appreciated.
 

Inukshuk

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My first splice. Followed the Samson Rope directions. Measure, taper, bury, lock stitchIMG_6198.jpg
 

Inukshuk

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I undid my first splice and re-did it, because I did it wrong. I believe, correct me if wrong, that Amsteel Blue would get the "12-Strand Class II Eye Splice". It was easy to remove the lock stitch.

Samson instructions (ATTACHED) say:
Class II ropes are made in whole or part from any of the following high modulus fibers: Dyneema®, Vectran®, Technora®, and Zylon®. The eye splice is used to place a permanent loop in the end of a rope, generally for attachment purposes to a fixed point. An eye is also used to form the rope around a thimble, which is used to protect the rope, especially when it is to be attached to a shackle, chain, or wire rope.This eye splice may be performed on new or used rope. This is an all-purpose splice technique designed for people who generally splice used rope as frequently as new rope. By following the procedure below, the splice can retain from 90% to 100% of average new rope strength and in used rope up to the same proportion of residual used rope strength.

I incorrectly did my first splice as using the Class 1 instructions. "Class I ropes are made from any or all of the following fibers: Olefin, polyester, or nylon".

This website explains: "Length of bury: Both Brion Toss and Starzinger [I found this document to be a great read] recommend that the length of the buried tail should be 72 times the rope’s diameter. This is about three and a half full fid lengths (a full length fid is 21 times the rope’s diameter.) The very slippery Spectra and Dyneema require this long bury. However, for Polyester, about half this length is sufficient. "

IMG_6221.jpg
 

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