Mustard w/ Mayo - 40 series build

scheefdog

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Oct 22, 2014
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I have my distributor vent nipple connected to the air cleaner so the engine vacuum draws moisture out of the distributor. I have a 79 distributor on a 77 2F engine. I think the other nipple I have run through the firewall to a fuel filter in the passenger compartment.

That looks like an FJ60 fan to me. Not sure if it's bigger than an earlier 2F fan but wouldn't be surprised.

Looks like a later 2F fan blade since it has the side-fins on each blade. As Subzali said, likely larger in dia. I don't think OEM fans for a '78 are unavailable - you might try Rock Auto or the dealer. Since old fans can fail and fly apart, a new one might be wise.


Thanks for the explanation on the distributer vents. That makes sense on pulling air through the distributer to keep it dry.

I measured the fan shroud and fan blade and they are both close to 17.5" in diameter. It does look like the OEM/Aisin fan is still available and I think this is the correct size for my shroud as it would be just under 17". Thanks for the tip on that - I assumed they would be no longer available.
https://www.fjparts.com/radiator-cooling-fan-77-79-fj4-wfan-clutch-p-2166.html
 

gr8fulabe

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Boulder Canyon
wow man great work! I can't believe it is running, that is kick ass! The mud in the fuel pump holes is going to be Mason bees, not a mud puddle. Them & Mud Daubers (as you saw on the gas tank) fill in every hole & hose they find. I'm constantly digging dirt clods like that out of stuff around here. Although it had never occurred to me they would be doing it in there. Also, when we first got the truck, it has a 71 F engine in it (if I recall correctly) with the orange/metal 4 blade fan. It is possible that shroud was used from that other engine & so has a smaller opening that the 76 would have. I don't know that, but couldn't say it isn't plausible. To the best of my knowledge, the fan on the engine now is OEM to the motor.

And here's a question for you, or the experts. When the head was rebuilt & then mounted, the valves were cold adjusted, and the head bolts torqued. Is it really possible that they would have come loose and/or gotten out of adjustment from just sitting around for years?

Anyway, great work on the truck! I'm excited to see it coming back to life.
 

scheefdog

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wow man great work! I can't believe it is running, that is kick ass! The mud in the fuel pump holes is going to be Mason bees, not a mud puddle. Them & Mud Daubers (as you saw on the gas tank) fill in every hole & hose they find. I'm constantly digging dirt clods like that out of stuff around here. Although it had never occurred to me they would be doing it in there. Also, when we first got the truck, it has a 71 F engine in it (if I recall correctly) with the orange/metal 4 blade fan. It is possible that shroud was used from that other engine & so has a smaller opening that the 76 would have. I don't know that, but couldn't say it isn't plausible. To the best of my knowledge, the fan on the engine now is OEM to the motor.

And here's a question for you, or the experts. When the head was rebuilt & then mounted, the valves were cold adjusted, and the head bolts torqued. Is it really possible that they would have come loose and/or gotten out of adjustment from just sitting around for years?

Anyway, great work on the truck! I'm excited to see it coming back to life.

Good to have you chime in Abe! Very interesting on the Mason bees - I would have never guessed that.

I remember you saying it had an F engine in it. I noticed the alternator wiring was extended to be really long and then I remembered the F and realized why it was so long. I think the shroud is a 76 because of the shape of it. I think the 60 fan must just be a little larger than the 40.

I'm no expert on engine rebuilds, but my guess is this. I have started and run the engine and even though it has been for very short durations it was enough to cause the valves to seat a little tighter. And that is why they measure as being too tight. The head bolts were all good except for one that must have never been torqued down all of the way. Someone else with way more knowledge might have a better explanation on the valve lash.
 

scheefdog

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I thought the 2nd gas tank I had was good, but it turns out it has a hole. I didn't figure that out until I filled it up with a half-gallon of gas to realize it was leaking out...



So I unhooked it and got to deal with the gas mess. I went back to my bike water bottle fuel setup because I wanted to run the engine up to full operating temp. The engine sounds great and the wife's first remark was "it runs so smooth". It looks like the gauges are working as well.




I looked up new replacement gas tanks and was thinking poly would be the way to go because it is cheaper and will not rust. However, then I found a thread on RS where most were against the poly. A poly tank is about $260 with shipping. A new OEM tank from Stevinson online is $400 and that might qualify for free shipping with their current code. I know Cool Cruisers also sells a replica steel tank, but that is $360 with shipping so the OEM seems like a better deal. What do you guys recommend?

My new goal with this 76 is to get it running in good stock-ish form. After all of the good feedback on here about my plans for a stretched 40 I realized that what I am looking to do will be best accomplished by starting with an 80 chassis and a pre-75 FJ40. I'll elaborate more on that soon because I have collecting...
 

SteveH

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I would get a steel for sure, and I think an OEM for the cost difference.
 

subzali

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And my suggestion would be to POR-15 the bottom right out of the box. No rusting from the bottom outside in any more.
 

Rzeppa

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Aug 24, 2005
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Kittredge CO, USA
I have not weighed my 40, but from what I have read, a soft top 40 should be 3500lbs or less. Doing a motor swap will save me some weight, but I would probably put that back on with a bumper and winch. Have you had a mostly stock 40 on a scale?

My bone stock 1978 FJ45 weighed in at 3950 pounds when it was imported through Montana. Pretty sure that's close to a hard top 40. Obviously armor and winch etc. are adders.

Would you mind looking how the coil wiring is on your 60? The only wires I have to my coil now are from the ignitor and I'm wondering if there should be another wire to the + side.

I went down there this evening and inspected/photographed my 1987 FJ60, then consulted the wiring diagram for a late model 40 in my Gregories manual. Two wires go to the plus side, one from the ignition switch and the other to a condenser (capacitor to suppress noise), one wire to the ignitor (current amplifier). The other wire also goes to the ignitor. Pictures:

DSC_64621024.jpg

DSC_64631024.jpg


I do have a question regarding hose routing - the FJ60 distributor has two nipples on the top of the cap. Do both of these need to be vented? Or can one of them be capped?

As was mentioned upthread, it is venting to keep the HV part of the distributor dry. Intake is from a fuel filter in the glove compartment and suction is achieved by the partial vacuum of the clean side of the air filter assembly.

I tried to mount the fan shroud and clearance is too tight to the fan. The fan is just slightly smaller than the shroud. I assume I have an FJ60 fan? And it is bigger than an FJ40 fan? Any suggestions?

You mean the fan is too big for the shroud? I have a box of fans. Some are early model orange painted metal fans and I think I may have a white plastic fan off my non-clutch '76. Pretty sure any of them fit the '40 rad shroud. You're welcome to any free.
 
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Rzeppa

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On 40 series fuel tanks, I would go OEM if available. Reports are that the aftermarket poly tanks have shavings in them. A not so rusted used OEM tank would be my second choice, which is what I have for my '76.
 

scheefdog

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Oct 22, 2014
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Gunnison
I have slowly been chipping away and making progress. It is summer so most of my free time has been spent outside. A few fun pictures.

Getting out for the weekly high country ride with a fresh reminder that the weather sometimes changes instantly above tree line...




A little cruiser fun. Even the wife was really excited to drive this RHD beast! And my daughter thought it was pretty awesome too!




Toyota's smallest cruiser next to their biggest (at least I think the megacruiser is the biggest?).
 

scheefdog

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Oct 22, 2014
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I have been slowly chipping away on the 40 and making progress.
  • Ordered a new Aisin fan from fjparts.com that is the proper size.

  • New OEM gas tank along with some gaskets and a new gas cap. Decided it was worth spending the money on a new tank instead of doing some patch job that would eventually fail. Put some rubber down underneath the gas tank to keep it off the existing rust, but I do plan to POR15 the bottom of the tank as suggested.

  • New block heater to replace the rubber plug I installed.
  • Welded new studs on the radiator support and installed that along with the radiator.
  • Removed and cleaned the heater box and core. New rubber connections, but took the heater valve out for now because it was leaking. It can be cold in the mountains even in July so I’d rather always have the option for heat.
  • Rebuilt the front axle and did new wheel bearing with Cruiser Outfitter kit. Abe must have replaced the front axles at some point because they look fairly new. I rebuilt the warn hubs as well. Now it is all clean and leak free.




  • New brake master, rubber brake lines, calipers, rotors, and adjusted the rear drums (the cylinders and shoes looked like they had been replaced before Abe parked the 40)

  • I picked up a nice clean 4 speed transmission and transferase setup from a stand up guy. I decided it was easier and way less money to go back to the stock 4 speed rather than finish out the h55 swap. I was barely able to get the H55 slid back and dropped down without cutting the frame brace behind the transmission, but I managed to do it. Hooked up the original parking brake cable and driveshafts.





  • New clutch master and slave. Abe put in a new clutch when he installed the engine so it is all new now.
  • Differentials, transmission, transfer case all got new oil.
  • Mounted up the FJ60 air cleaner and sorted out the rest of the vacuum lines. I still need to vent do a VSV for the charcoal canister. Anyone have an extra round style VSV with a mounting bracket laying around?
 

scheefdog

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Oct 22, 2014
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As you probably noticed in the pictures above I stripped the paint off one of the fenders to see what that looks like. I was able to do this with Citristrip so it is a fairly enjoyable process. I’m planning to strip the rest of the spray paint off using the same method.

I also started stripping the paint off one of the aprons, but realized it had been fully stripped of factory paint. Therefore, I’ll have to repaint the aprons unless I can find a set of mustard ones - anyone? I think the bib might have also been stripped of factory paint, but I need to confirm this.

There is of course a bunch more cleanup type stuff to do, but I want to drive it first. Planning to take it for a spin around the block today.

 

HDavis

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Feb 13, 2019
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Its like when you ask for no mayo but they put it on your sandwich anyways, now you are stuck scraping all of it off. Joking aside i dig the patina of the panel with the spray paint removed.
 

scheefdog

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I have been meaning to update for awhile now. It is officially a driver and running great. I started driving it around town mid-September and it is very fun to cruise around town without the top and doors. The engine purrs and it seems to have plenty of power. I still haven’t really done any highway driving because I mostly end up running errands in-between when it is being worked on.

There is one nagging item. The oil pan is leaking at the skid plate welds so I leave a drip pan underneath it when it is parked. I’m going to have to either take it off and try to repair it or just buy a new oil pan. Or maybe just run some really thick oil? Does anyone have a good 2F oil pan laying around?

I cleaned up and scrubbed down the entire cruiser. I spent a good amount of time on the inside of the tub along with applying rust converter. It is amazing how much better some elbow grease can make it look.





I also decided to take a look at the windshield wiper situation while I had the dash pad off. There was only one wiper installed and no stud for the other wiper. Turns out there was a creative fix for a broken wiper linkage to keep just the driver operational.

 

scheefdog

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I decided to really go down the rabbit hole of cleaning it… by taking the spray paint off to get it back to “original” mustard. As it turns out, the cruiser has some layers of paint. It is original mustard yellow with a professional prime and repaint of similar yellow, but a little darker. Then it had a light spray green camo job before the white mayo spray paint over the top of everything.




It was a lot of work to strip it down, but I am digging the look of it. I'm sure the look is not for everyone, but it certainly has character now.

I hope to find an original mustard yellow bib and aprons for it because those were totally stripped when it was painted white. If I get extra lucky maybe I can even find some yellow doors. Anyone??

I was debating what to do with the rear quarter panels because of the terrible shape and condition. I almost went for the easy route of buying aluminum skins and going over the top to cover it all up. However, I decided to get cheap ebay quarter panels and have a go at it.








I’m glad I did because it sure did feel good to cut out all of the bondo and rust. It was lots of cutting, welding, grinding, but it is back to looking like an FJ40 instead of a jeep. There is still a bunch of rust in the tub and that is going to stay because this is a driver rebuild and not a restoration.




Next up is rust repair on the fenders. Then I can do some patina paint on the new metal to make it go with the old.
 

nakman

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Aug 23, 2005
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north side
wow that is an amazing amount of work, so nice! keep after it, man.

I had an FJ62 years ago that had an oil leak in the bottom of the pan where that little skid plate was welded on... I fixed it with JB weld. Once the pan was removed and clean I could see the crack inside the pan at the weld, so I put a puddle of JB weld on it and a new cork gasket and 8 quarts of oil later I as back in business, no drips. If I were to fix it today I'd probably use a real welder, but JB was the only welding I was qualified to do at the time.
 
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