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Mustard w/ Mayo - 40 series build

White Stripe

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The Aqualu tubs look great to me because I haven't spent enough time around 40s to become a purist. I have read your build thread on mud and it is a great resource on installing an Aqualu tub - certainly one I will follow if I go that route. I got a shipping quote from Aqualu and it was basically $1000 - putting their 3/4 tub at $5500 shipped. Not cheap, but I wouldn't have to worry about rust down the road.

Interesting point on the emissions with a 75 and older. There is no emissions testing here and I don't see that starting anytime soon, but you never know... With a 3rz or 2uz swap I plan to do all the emissions stuff with it. The 5vz swap I did looked totally stock and included all the emissions stuff and it wasn't a big deal to include it.

Have you done a Toyota swap before? Or an LS swap? I have noticed you posting on other mud threads that "you would just do an LS swap" - curious why you have such a strong opinion on that.
They must have increased their shipping cost. Although your buying a bigger tub, so that is probably why it's more in shipping. Pretty cool you can get shipping for free. I think if u spend the effort that you can make a aqualu look pretty pure. Not worrying about rust is pretty awesome. My other land cruiser is LS swapped. I really like the motor. It's really easy to work on and parts are cheap. It also has small external dimensions so it's easy to fit, thus giving more room to service. Also I think you can adapt it to the h55f if I'm not mistaken. Not trying to bash a Toyota swap though so I hope it's not taken as that. But the 2uz is a big motor dimensionally and only makes 230hp. A LS typically makes over 300hp with a tune if it's a 5.3. But the 2uz is well balanced and butter smooth. My LS is not as smooth, but it does make me smile lol.
 

rover67

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As far as LS swaps go I am a fan, I have an LM7 (iron block truck 5.3 motor) in my 60 with an h55 and it has been wonderful. I did the swap in it and have also done swaps in other cars and helped on lots of others. As mentioned above, parts are cheap, they make great power, and the wiring is pretty easy. So are the emissions if you buy a motor without air injection/egr. Some came with one either or both, I can't remember but I know some came with none of that in stock configs. The stock setup is also 2 cats in a lot of trucks at least. How many are in the stock toyota configurations? If it's 4 that'd be a few less to be emissions compliant, but they are cheap so make it doesn't matter.

Staying all Toyota is definitely cool... I might be tempted to do that in a 40 project.... or an 80 for that matter. If LS in a bigger truck I'd spring for a more powerful variant than the garden variety 5.3 or a boosted/cammed 5.3. In the 40 a regular 5.3 would be rad even with the stock truck cam. (you can get drop in vette cams that are pullouts for like &60 bucks on ebay and it's and easy swap.. But yeah the 5.3 would work nicely I am sure white stripe can attest.

It's just so hard to give up the great power, reliability, low initial price for a full swap, availability of adapters, and simplicity of the control systems on the LS stuff. With HP tuners or other programs everything can be tuned or changed on the fly. Analysis of errors is also easy to help diagnose wiring or sensor issues with the available software. I know, I probably sound like an LS fanboy...

All that being said, I have not done a single Toyota motor in anything. BUT I probably will someday and I think it's a great idea.

As far as the original motor goes.... I tend to disagree with Jeff. If you would like to sell a running motor then sure get it running. If you aren't worried about that just start the build like you want. You could go through the 2f later or pass it along as is. It looks like it would be a good motor for somebody even with the valve train which I personally wouldn't worry about too much with a simple cleaning. I mean as long as the valve stems aren't wrecked/real rusty and the springs seem like they aren't pitted from the rust it'd be fine.
 
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scheefdog

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Gunnison
They must have increased their shipping cost. Although your buying a bigger tub, so that is probably why it's more in shipping. Pretty cool you can get shipping for free. I think if u spend the effort that you can make a aqualu look pretty pure. Not worrying about rust is pretty awesome. My other land cruiser is LS swapped. I really like the motor. It's really easy to work on and parts are cheap. It also has small external dimensions so it's easy to fit, thus giving more room to service. Also I think you can adapt it to the h55f if I'm not mistaken. Not trying to bash a Toyota swap though so I hope it's not taken as that. But the 2uz is a big motor dimensionally and only makes 230hp. A LS typically makes over 300hp with a tune if it's a 5.3. But the 2uz is well balanced and butter smooth. My LS is not as smooth, but it does make me smile lol.
As far as LS swaps go I am a fan, I have an LM7 (iron block truck 5.3 motor) in my 60 with an h55 and it has been wonderful. I did the swap in it and have also done swaps in other cars and helped on lots of others. As mentioned above, parts are cheap, they make great power, and the wiring is pretty easy. So are the emissions if you buy a motor without air injection/egr. Some came with one either or both, I can't remember but I know some came with none of that in stock configs. The stock setup is also 2 cats in a lot of trucks at least. How many are in the stock toyota configurations? If it's 4 that'd be a few less to be emissions compliant, but they are cheap so make it doesn't matter.

Staying all Toyota is definitely cool... I might be tempted to do that in a 40 project.... or an 80 for that matter. If LS in a bigger truck I'd spring for a more powerful variant than the garden variety 5.3 or a boosted/cammed 5.3. In the 40 a regular 5.3 would be rad even with the stock truck cam. (you can get drop in vette cams that are pullouts for like &60 bucks on ebay and it's and easy swap.. But yeah the 5.3 would work nicely I am sure white stripe can attest.

It's just so hard to give up the great power, reliability, low initial price for a full swap, availability of adapters, and simplicity of the control systems on the LS stuff. With HP tuners or other programs everything can be tuned or changed on the fly. Analysis of errors is also easy to help diagnose wiring or sensor issues with the available software. I know, I probably sound like an LS fanboy...

All that being said, I have not done a single Toyota motor in anything. BUT I probably will someday and I think it's a great idea.

As far as the original motor goes.... I tend to disagree with Jeff. If you would like to sell a running motor then sure get it running. If you aren't worried about that just start the build like you want. You could go through the 2f later or pass it along as is. It looks like it would be a good motor for somebody even with the valve train which I personally wouldn't worry about too much with a simple cleaning. I mean as long as the valve stems aren't wrecked/real rusty and the springs seem like they aren't pitted from the rust it'd be fine.

Thank you guys for sharing some LS swap experience with me. It does sounds like an affordable and easy option because there is so much aftermarket support for it. I'll have to read into it a little more.

However, I think I'm set on keeping it all Toyota. At face value the 2uz doesn't seem a whole lot more complicated than the 5vz swap other than it is not as well supported. The challenging part is the wiring since only an auto was produced, but there are companies that will produce a conversion harness if one doesn't want to get lost in wiring. These guys in Oregon are selling swap parts mainly focused on pickups/4runners - http://northwesttoysllc.com/1uz-2/

I have been waiting to hear back from a guy on MUD who supposedly has some 1uz marine wiring harnesses/ecus. He messaged me back immediately and then has gone silent on sending actual pics and providing a little more into... I hate it when that happens. The 1uz vvti marine engine was produced for ski boats and the wiring/ecu is a simple setup. The 1uz vvti variant was around 300 hp and 300 ft/lbs of torque - so it would move the 40 right along.
 

rover67

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Yeah, i'd think you can figure out the wiring. Might even be worth building your own harness... I think a toyota v8 would be the neatest in there personally.
 

scheefdog

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Finally time for an update. I ended up building a nice garage/shop starting at the end of the summer and officially finished it in January. This big project meant the 40 had to hibernate longer. The new garage is great and I am excited to have the space. It is detached from the house, but only a few feet from the backdoor. It has in-floor heat, a dedicated “project vehicle” space and plenty of room for stuff to happen. There is an upper story loft space with ample space for small wrenching (bikes, waxing skis, etc), storage, and a large home office room.I call it a loft, but it does have full headroom.

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The garage is two bays deep and has doors on both ends for the one side which is nice because I can get a vehicle from my alley into my backyard if I want. The garage door that opens to the backyard will be especially nice this summer for working with the door open.Anyways, enough about the garage.

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I pulled the 40 out of hibernation a couple of weeks ago and the first item to tackle was cleaning out all the dirt and mouse turds from the interior. I found some interesting bug cocoons underneath the gas tank.

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After looking at the engine again I decided it is worth trying to get the 2f running and hopefully the whole 40 driving down the road in “as-is” condition. I was worried there might be moisture in the engine from the valve cover not being sealed on top of the engine, but it seems all good after a good wipe down.

I put some marvel mystery oil in the spark plug holes and all over the valve train letting it soak overnight and then repeating the process. It actually feels really smooth. I drained the oil too (what little was left in it) and put fresh oil into it.

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The pic above shows the current status of the engine. The carb and battery tray was never reinstalled with the replacement engine. I started laying out the parts to do this and realized I’m missing some crucial items. The valve cover nuts are missing and are a special nut because of the shoulder they have that fits down into the donut gaskets. The carb isolator is also missing - it is a thick plastic spacer for anyone who might not be familiar with it. The front hard fuel line is missing too. I sent a message to Abe to see if he has this stuff in a box somewhere by chance and I’m waiting to hear back. I am hoping he does. Otherwise I'm looking for them in case someone has them sitting around? From what Abe told me and the number on the block this is an 83 2F.

I have some other big updates on build plans, but I’ll stick with the basics here as I want to get this 40 started.
 

MountainGoat

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Damn, nice garage man. Looking forward to following the progress on the 40. :zilla:
 

scheefdog

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Oct 22, 2014
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Gunnison
I have made bunch more progress and got it started! It has been stop and go because of having to track down some parts.



List of what I have done:
  • The H55 trans was stuck in gear and wouldn’t shift. I took the gas tank and trans tunnel out so that I could pull the top cover off the transmission. The reverse fork had slide to where it shouldn’t have been (usually from storing a trans on its end). Got that sorted and now it rows through the gears.

  • There was some wiring to sort out - mainly at the ignitor because that was missing. I ended up getting lucky and finding a 60 ignitor to match the 60 engine that is installed. The coil was still available new through Toyota and I got one from Stevinson.
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  • One question for someone whom has a FJ60 with the stock engine. On the + side of the coil, is there only the wiring coming from the ignitor? On this 40 there was originally a heavier gauge hot wire that attached directly to the + side of the coil, but I believe that is eliminated on the 60.

  • I got a Chinese Trollhole style carb for now because I wanted something simple to get running. Before I installed it - I swapped to the high altitude jets that it came with. I was missing the carb insulator and did not have matching throttle linkage pieces, but was able to source those from various people on mud. The fuel line to the carb was also MIA so I got a mangled one of those for the end fitting that attaches to the carb and ended up bending up my own line.

  • I installed new spark plugs and a wire set. The rotor and cap on the dizzy looks to be in good shape. I thought it would be good to drive the oil pump with a drill to make sure there was good oil pressure. For this, I cut off the end of a 3/8 spade bit I had laying around and it was perfect to stick down in the dizzy hole.
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  • The fuel pump that was bolted to the engine didn’t have hoses connected to it and looked like it had some cobwebs in the holes. I started cleaning it out with the shopvac and a zip tie, but quickly realized it was actually mud/dirt. I removed it from the block when I realized all three connections were literally packed with dirt. How does the fuel pump get packed full of dirt? All I can figure is that the pump was sitting in a mud puddle before it got bolted up to the block.

  • Being anxious to see if this engine actually runs I decided it was time for a test start and that a gravity fed fuel line and custom bike water bottle tank would do the trick. Luckily it runs! And sounds smooth so that is great.

  • I’m glad I ran it before assembling everything. There was an oil leak at the front timing cover gasket upon running it. So off came the front crank pulley and timing cover. The round gasket that the pulley slides into was brittle and cracked. I installed new gaskets and sealant on the bottom bolts.
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  • I removed the thermostat and flushed the block with water. When doing this I noticed a little water dripping down the drivers side of the block and upon inspection there was an old block heater that had seen better days. I decided it was worth taking off the intake and exhaust manifolds and dealing with the EGR all at the same time.
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  • I pulled the old block heater out and installed a rubber freeze plug in its place. The gaskets between the intake and exhaust manifolds were old so I pulled them apart and replaced those. I also removed the EGR cooler and did block off plates.

  • I’m waiting on a water pump to show up and then I can put everything together including mounting the radiator and filling it up with coolant. Hoping that shows up before the weekend - ordered it from Stevinson because it was only $5 more for the Toyota part than one from Napa or Car Quest.
 

subzali

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Rubber freeze plug? Will that hold up to water jacket pressure?
 

SteveH

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Good idea on removing the leaky block heater. Rubber freeze plugs are an ok temporary fix, but have a nasty habit of failing down the road.

I ordered (I think) at 52mm steel freeze plug that was supposed to fit that exact hole, and it didn't come close to fitting - way too big, and I worried about cracking the block if I pounded it in. Luckily, I had the undamaged, OEM freeze plug I removed in 1992 and put some Loctite sleeve retainer compound on it, and pressed it back into the hole. It fit properly and has not leaked.

So, I would order a genuine Toyota plug, if available.
 

scheefdog

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Rubber freeze plug? Will that hold up to water jacket pressure?
Good idea on removing the leaky block heater. Rubber freeze plugs are an ok temporary fix, but have a nasty habit of failing down the road.

I ordered (I think) at 52mm steel freeze plug that was supposed to fit that exact hole, and it didn't come close to fitting - way too big, and I worried about cracking the block if I pounded it in. Luckily, I had the undamaged, OEM freeze plug I removed in 1992 and put some Loctite sleeve retainer compound on it, and pressed it back into the hole. It fit properly and has not leaked.

So, I would order a genuine Toyota plug, if available.

I have never used one, but they make rubber freeze plugs that are designed for an application like this. However, like Steve pointed out - they are more of a temporary fix. I was able to get one that is 2" which is slightly bigger than the OEM 50mm opening so at least it is a tight fit.

My worry with a real freeze plug is that I will not be able to get the hole clean enough for a good fit. The block hole has corrosion from the block heater plug being there for who knows how long. Maybe I can sand it smooth enough by hand?

Another option is to just put another block heater in the hole and call it good for hopefully another 20 years.
 

SteveH

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I thought Kats had discontinued the 2F block plug heaters, but I see that SOR carries (someone's) heater. I agree that if the outer lip where the o-ring rides is clean, and the inner edge is badly corroded, then perhaps a new block plug heater is a pretty good idea.
 

rover67

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I thought Kats had discontinued the 2F block plug heaters, but I see that SOR carries (someone's) heater. I agree that if the outer lip where the o-ring rides is clean, and the inner edge is badly corroded, then perhaps a new block plug heater is a pretty good idea.
I actually chose to put in a new block heater in my 40 for this exact reason. I am sure a new plug would be harder to seal... and the block heaters seem to at least stay put for a while.
 

Rzeppa

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Aug 24, 2005
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Kittredge CO, USA
Wow cool thread and nice photos. This all looks really familiar. I'll have to go look at my 60 on the coil question, but in general, coils whether electronic ignition or mechanical point will always have just one wire to the + side, with the ignitor or points making the connection to ground as required as the dizzy spins.

Agreed with the mud puddle speculation on the fuel pump. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?

On the garage? I bought a 1,500 ft^2 garage. It came with a house....a man's got to have his garage.....:thumb:
 

nuclearlemon

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windy wyo
I thought Kats had discontinued the 2F block plug heaters, but I see that SOR carries (someone's) heater. I agree that if the outer lip where the o-ring rides is clean, and the inner edge is badly corroded, then perhaps a new block plug heater is a pretty good idea.
zerostart sells them. pn 3100071 should be the part number
 

scheefdog

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Wow cool thread and nice photos. This all looks really familiar. I'll have to go look at my 60 on the coil question, but in general, coils whether electronic ignition or mechanical point will always have just one wire to the + side, with the ignitor or points making the connection to ground as required as the dizzy spins.

Agreed with the mud puddle speculation on the fuel pump. Whiskey Tango Foxtrot?

On the garage? I bought a 1,500 ft^2 garage. It came with a house....a man's got to have his garage.....:thumb:

I definitely agree that a man's got to have his garage - especially during the current situation.

Would you mind looking how the coil wiring is on your 60? The only wires I have to my coil now are from the ignitor and I'm wondering if there should be another wire to the + side.

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scheefdog

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Thank you guys for the kind words and input. It looks like I will go the block heater route. Thanks for the part number @nuclearmoon.

Knowing that it does indeed run - I’ve been going through everything. Short of pulling the head off the block, it looks like I have touched most everything on the engine.

There have been a fair amount of parts to sort out because of the newer 83 2F transplant. It seems there are a lot of small changes between the 2F engine bits and pieces between a 40 and 60. Another list of what I have tackled.
  • New shiny water pump and thermostat installed.
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  • I had not checked the valve clearances and decided it would be a good idea to do so at this stage because of ease of access. They were all tight to the point of not being able to slide a feeler gauge in so I adjusted them to spec. I’ll go back and adjust them again hot once I actually run it down the road. I also noticed the temp sensor and coolant/heater pipes were loose so I put some pipe dope on them and tightened them up. I also added a cap to the heater pipe because the T fitting was just open which I didn’t notice before because of the position of it. I threw a torque wrench on the head and rocker bolts. One head bolt was loose while the rest were at spec so I’m glad I took the time to do so.
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  • I installed a new fuel pump and replaced all of the rubber lines. I bent up a hardline for the carb connection and it will work for now. I do plan to replace it with an OEM one or buy a bender to make it pro.

  • I also got to tackle the fun job of cleaning out the gas tank and in the process noticed what looked like a spot that was weeping. Upon poking around with a screwdriver it was indeed almost rusted through. Luckily, I happened to have another used tank laying around that with a lot less rust so I cleaned and installed that one.
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  • I replaced all of the heater hoses, but bypassed the heater core for now. I want to give that a good clean before hooking it up. The PCV valve and hose got replaced too. Still have a couple vacuum lines that need replacing once I figure out my air filter.

  • I do have a question regarding hose routing - the FJ60 distributer has two nipples on the top of the cap. Do both of these need to be vented? Or can one of them be capped?
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  • After I tracked down an adjustment bracket for the alternator I mounted it up. Then I realized it had a narrow pull on it (76) and therefore would not match up with the wider belt of the rest of the engine (83). I got lucky with timing on MUD and picked up an FJ60 alternator with an internal regulator. So I mounted that up and revised the wiring to eliminate the external regulator.
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  • The radiator support had one stud broken off and I ended up breaking the other stud as well thanks to the rusted nut. Therefore, I ended up drilling the studs out and I’m running bolts for now.
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  • I tried to mount the fan shroud and clearance is too tight to the fan. The fan is just slightly smaller than the shroud. I assume I have an FJ60 fan? And it is bigger than an FJ40 fan? Any suggestions?
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  • I also checked the air cleaner assembly fit again and the brackets do not match up to the valve cover. I texted another forum member to confirm that the late FJ40 valve cover is different than the 60. So it looks like I need to track down an FJ60 air cleaner assembly.
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This brings me to the point of being ready to fill up the cooling system and then I can run it to operating temperature. I should have time this week to do so.
 

subzali

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I have my distributor vent nipple connected to the air cleaner so the engine vacuum draws moisture out of the distributor. I have a 79 distributor on a 77 2F engine. I think the other nipple I have run through the firewall to a fuel filter in the passenger compartment.

That looks like an FJ60 fan to me. Not sure if it's bigger than an earlier 2F fan but wouldn't be surprised.
 

SteveH

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Colo Springs
Looks like a later 2F fan blade since it has the side-fins on each blade. As Subzali said, likely larger in dia. I don't think OEM fans for a '78 are unavailable - you might try Rock Auto or the dealer. Since old fans can fail and fly apart, a new one might be wise.
 
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