what's all that white stuff in the last pic... are the cottonwoods out early this year in Durango? 
it's spring over here on the range.. 
it's spring over here on the range.. 
FJZ80 Gets a new bumper
- Thread starter Corbet
- Start date
what's all that white stuff in the last pic... are the cottonwoods out early this year in Durango?
Yah, I wanted to build something so it snowed of course, for 3 of the 4 days I spent on it. :roll eyes: Made it hard to stay focused as I do't have the space to close the door behind the 80 and still work on it. Maybe I should really clean my garage...
rover67
Rising Sun Member
yeah, those bumpers act like nice shears on rocks
Trailer wiring solution
I wanted an OEM like trailer set up that was completely protected from damage.
I took a field trip to the local Toyota dealer and priced out a Tundra/Sequoia 7 round / 4 flat trailer harness. Kind of spendy Turns out Ford uses the same thing just a different pigtail. Still expensive but no too bad. Wrote down the suppliers name and found it online for much less. About $50. http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/HM40975-11998.html
Decided on a 3"x6"x1/4" rectangular tube to french it into the bumper like the receiver is from 4x4 Labs. Had a local fab shop cut (plasma table) a new backing plate to match the tube and this is how it turned out. I'm very happy. If I do manage to get a rock in there and smash it, I should be able to find a replacement on the road just about anywhere for some time. Or just steal one of Randy's new F350
Enjoy the pics.
I wanted an OEM like trailer set up that was completely protected from damage.
I took a field trip to the local Toyota dealer and priced out a Tundra/Sequoia 7 round / 4 flat trailer harness. Kind of spendy
Turns out Ford uses the same thing just a different pigtail. Still expensive but no too bad. Wrote down the suppliers name and found it online for much less. About $50. http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Hopkins/HM40975-11998.htmlDecided on a 3"x6"x1/4" rectangular tube to french it into the bumper like the receiver is from 4x4 Labs. Had a local fab shop cut (plasma table) a new backing plate to match the tube and this is how it turned out. I'm very happy. If I do manage to get a rock in there and smash it, I should be able to find a replacement on the road just about anywhere for some time. Or just steal one of Randy's new F350
Enjoy the pics.
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Very Nice 
I have a similar one, and it is tucked up under the bumper where it is protected. Much cleaner install the way you did it but I really didn't want to try and cut through both my crossmember and my Slee rear bumper. It is a pain to get to so your solution is mucho better
I have a similar one, and it is tucked up under the bumper where it is protected. Much cleaner install the way you did it but I really didn't want to try and cut through both my crossmember and my Slee rear bumper. It is a pain to get to so your solution is mucho better
Slick!
Got the ladder built this afternoon. 1.5" round tube with 1.25" square steps.
I need to figure out where to mount the license plate, back up light, and Hi-Lift jack. I also plan to build a work light much like the Kaymar unit. I might rework the tire carrier a little but I think I'm probably going to end up going to Cruise Moab as is for now. Too much another stuff to do before leaving Sunday morning.
I need to figure out where to mount the license plate, back up light, and Hi-Lift jack. I also plan to build a work light much like the Kaymar unit. I might rework the tire carrier a little but I think I'm probably going to end up going to Cruise Moab as is for now. Too much another stuff to do before leaving Sunday morning.
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smslavin
0
wow. that came out awesome.
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
seriously slick
farnhamstj
Hard Core 4+
nice work.
rhyary
0
Corbet,
Nice work.
Call me before you finish. I want to talk to you about the stops. I have workd an idea with Luke that can work great for future bumpers. It looks like you are in a spot where you can still utlize the idea
Rami
(518) 496-4429
Nice work.
Call me before you finish. I want to talk to you about the stops. I have workd an idea with Luke that can work great for future bumpers. It looks like you are in a spot where you can still utlize the idea
Rami
(518) 496-4429
Continued bumper build projects. Today a bike rack. Originally I was thinking vertical next to the tire but loading was going to be difficult. So I built what amounts to two roof top Yakima bars on the swing out so access can still be gained to the rear verse a receiver rack.
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
What is on the backside of the recovery points?
It’s been almost ten years so I’d have to crawl under to give you a detailed answer but it’s a large piece of bar stock that passes through the bumper shell and is tied into the truck frame rails. One the surface it looks like a tab welded on but that is not the case.
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
Well, after 10 years it is due an inspection!
I’m confident it’s solid. I did bend the bumper shell at some point with it getting hung up on something. Very slight. Probably only annoys me because I know it’s there.
Here's a shot of it passing through. Like Corbet says, its not going anywhere
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Ha, noticed that's at least the second time in the past couple of days you've taken interest in recovery point config/integrity/rating/blah/blah - sumthin' that's been a burr under my saddle for years!
A fair number you see on trucks are purely cosmetic, nothing more than a nice place to store your shackles.
AlpineAccess
Hard Core 4+
On the 100 kit that I put together it was linked in as follows:
Recovery point is slid through the 3/16" main shell and welded in front and back side, it rides along the frame rail attachment (3/16") and then ties into the rear crossmember replacement (1/8) box all seam welded. Probably a total linear seam weld of around 20". The only tricky part on it is the delta between materials - recovery point is around 3/4" thick and the metals it ties into. It requires some experience (and/or some practice on similar scrap) to play with settings so you bias heat into the thicker material but overall not a big deal. I grabbed some matching scrap at my local steel supply and played with settings before doing these. Like @Corbet mentioned in another thread (and IMO too) you really need 220/240 to get good penetration.
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