Enduro 29er wheelset

[Corbet]

So after buying my Yeti SB5.5 this fall I want to build a new wheelset over the winter for next season.

The bike currently has a set of DT Swiss M1900 wheels on it. https://www.dtswiss.com/en/products/wheels-mtb/all-mountain/m-1900-spline/m-1900-spline-30/ They seem average and OK but I’ve always upgraded my bikes in the past and built my own.

The current wheels are only 28 spokes each which I’m struggling to wrap my head around. Historically everything I’ve run is 32 hole on a MTB. Obviously less on road bikes. At 210lbs riding an enduro bike I’m questioning the durability of 28 spoke wheels.

Should I build another set of 28’s or move up to 32’s? Either way I’ll probably run DT revolution spokes. Looking at Stan’s Flow MK3 rims. Probably default to King Hubset. And the bike is set up for boost 148 spacing. Currently on 2.5 front and 2.3 rear tires. Not much room to upsize the rear but the Fox fork can probably handle whatever I decided to mount up.

This is a single quiver bike. So weight is an issue. Open to other components though, and I9 comes to mind. I’ve always liked Sun Ringle rims. I’ve built with them almost exclusively in the past for everything but road. I’m not a fan of proprietary spokes.

 

[benjrblant]

28 spokes does not necessarily mean a "weaker" wheel. I'd feel fine running 28 spokes all day, especially in the front. If I were to build a set, I'd opt 28/32 f/r, but thats just me.

I've got an old set of ZTR flow rims on my hardtail, a set of Grail rims on the cross/gravel bike, and a set of Iron Cross rims for a friend's gravel bike.generally pretty happy with all of them, but there are many good options out now.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I run 32/32 using Stan's Arch Mk3 on Hadley hubs. They've held up fine two years now to bikepacking, which see bike + gear + rider weights in the ~250 lbs range on a hard tail. I wouldn't be too concerned about 28 spokes in the front.

But honestly, the difference in real performance (e.g. a normal person's ability to feel the difference in momentum) between 28 and 32 is going to be hard to tell on a MTB, so I think being a weight weenie over 4 spokes is silly. Just stick with standard 32 spokes. You'll never get caught not being able to find a rim or hub in a pinch.

FWIW, I've used DT Comp 2/1.8/2 spokes and brass nipples pretty exclusively for a while. At least the last 4 wheel sets anyway. I've had pretty minimal issues and they've been reliable. But I'm also a curmudgeon in that I think 15 gauge (1.8mm) spokes should be the limit for anyone who doesn't like to eat dirt. Back when guys were building with 15g straight spokes and stupid light bars that happened a lot.

 

[rover67]

Single Quiver bike for me also. It's my only bike.

Same spokes (2/1.8/2) /brass nipples as Dave, 32 holes F & R. I've been on the same wheel set for several years now and beat the ever living crap out of them on my hard tail (2 broken frames). Lots of DH at the resorts and bikepacking... which is me (165lbs) +40lbs gear. And sure I push up hills, but man, if it opens up you'd better believe I go fast.

I use Derby Rims.

The King hubs, you sure about that? I never had anything but problems with mine. They always skipped engagement and nothing King could do to any of them fixed it. I sent stuff back a bunch and even got replacement hubs. A lot of pressure on them on a SS though.

It's just a lot of money to spend on something that has to be rebuild a ton even when working right and never worked right really anyways.. at least for me. But.. if you want shiny cool.. man they are the top of that list. I have since switched to DT swiss hubs. the 240 in the rear. Engagement is kind of "coarse" but it has been awesome. I stripped the fine tooth star ratchet and moved back to the coarse. I know there are a lot of nice hubs out there now though not sure what i'd get if I did it again.

I also run really heavy 2.5 DH'ish tires... so maybe I'm not the best person to comment since my priority is durability not weight.

 

[Corbet]

We have a King on our tandem. While it has not seen a ton of miles it’s been flawless under that stress. We split a Hugi in half a number of years back on that bike. I’ve got a 240 on my old Cannondale Jekyll that has been a great hub but I’d like a quicker engagement. I’ve kind of been spoiled with that on my BMX bike with its Profile Elite.

I’ve never had a Hadley hub but definitely open to that option.

I’ll definitely build with alloy nipples. While a little more delicate they are fine if proper lube is used during the build. Other than the tandem I’ve always used them. But only DT alloys as everything else I’ve tried has been crap.

This would be the first set of MTB wheels I’ve ever built with Revo spokes (14/17/14 gauge). Used them on my cyclocross wheels. I hammered those for many years. 24 front 28 rear spoke count. Rode that thing like a MTB. Jumped it. Don’t think I’ve ever trued those wheels to this day. Granted they are built with super tall Mavic CXP30 rims.

I could go ti spokes but super expensive and honestly have been the most tempermental during building of almost anything I’ve ever used. Both my and Bridger’s BMX wheels are rocking them currently.

I don’t think there is anything I enjoy more than building bicycle wheels.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I love my Hadley hubs, would buy again. They could be considered finicky since they require special tools to service. But super reliable and extremely quick engagement (also know the free hub is oiled, not greased, so it's every bit as loud and buzzy as Kings).

If I was spending money now it would probably be on a dynamo front, not sure in back. Probably stick with Hadley.

BTW, I'm also single speed but I'm using a full size free hub body for flexibility. The dedicated SS bodies usually force me to run the front ring on the outside of the crank arm and I prefer it on the inside with a bash ring. But when I was still trying to make belt drive work the ring would only fit on the outside.

That reminds me, one of the reasons I dropped the scratch on Hadley is the free hub body is titanium so my cog doesn't chew it up. I get terrible mileage from aluminum cogs so I run stainless. You can't make the mating surface wide enough on a stainless cog to not chew up alloy bodies. So I was running steel on the Stan's 3.30 I had. Which is actually kind of nice because all that material kept things nice and quiet. But eventually I wanted to own nice hubs myself and I bought them for my 45th birthday in prep for the CT attempt.

I ran CXP23 rims on my CX bike. Those weren't as tall as the CXP30 but thicker and heavier. That was with Velo Swap bin dug Ultegra hubs, but I used Comp spokes. I stick with one model of spoke so I'm constantly building an inventory of extras and spares. I built those wheels in 2003 and they went with the bike when I sold it last summer (2018). I raced the Boulder CX Series from 2004 to 2014 on them.

 

[Corbet]

I’ll need a sram XD style driver for my current drivetrain. But yah, I know about chewing up freehub bodies.

 

[wesintl]

I love to hate kings. They are always loose. Gotta have the annodizing tho go with I9

I'm not a fan of stans rims. MEH. The arch i have are just ok. I'd buy wtb or chinese carbon rims. mabye nox or derby.

I have an extra set of DT Swiss wheels and like the old ones they are not sexy but bombproof and still the best hub and paw design. I just don't like the rims they have on them and no annodizing.

28 is no big deal. Gotta lower rolling mass.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Why don't you like Stan's rims, Wes? I'm not in love with them but also can't really complain. Everyone's got 'em, so they're boring for sure. I can't get myself to trust carbon rims for some reason.

 

[rover67]

I have bent a few of the arch rims and a few friends have had similar luck, the carbon Chinese Derby ones have lived through much abuse and stayed true. So I am right there with Wes.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I went to Stans after bending too many Mavic rims, so I'm an outlier I think with Arch. I won't do carbon, not after snapping an Easton seat post half 'way around the 24 Hours of Moab course. I run a carbon bar reluctantly, though.

 

[wesintl]

No eyelets. Spokes pull through and you can’t build as tight or strong wheel

 

[DaveInDenver]

You can use washers if you want.

https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=73907&category=6203

 

[Corbet]

Wes, what's the deal with anodizing on your end? You need the bling of the olden days? I don't really want a painted rim but I'm fine with colors like black.

 

[Corbet]

I'm not a huge fan of carbon but have run carbon bars plenty in the past. Just replace after a questionable crash. My Yeti is Carbon which is a first for me. Hell I still ride a Steel road bike.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Don't diss it, Wes' retro Fat Chance is totally bitchin.

I have a vivid memory of my Answer Hyperlite breaking at the stem on a trail and the waking up looking at the tree canopy. Don't have nearly as vivid memory of how it went in-between.

 

[Corbet]

I'll look at some of the other rim options. I'm with Wes on eyelets, they are a must have. Adding washers will be a PITA and like admitting the rim design is flawed. I'm happy to hear your (Wes) fine with 28 spokes. And I'll take another look at the high end DT Swiss hub. While not sexy I know they work. My old one has never been serviced since I bought it in 2000. I've ridden the I9's on a demo bike and they seemed good. But for whatever reason I'm not in love with them. Can't pinpoint why? I still might go with King's and just buy the service tool. Seems you all have bad luck with them. If I have the tool Murphy's law would dictate they never need servicing

 

[Corbet]

Don't diss it, Wes' retro Fat Chance is totally bitchin.
/QUOTE]

His Fat is . And admittedly given a choice I'd consider a set of turquoise hubs to match my Yeti paint. But its definitely not going to dictate my hub choice. Black is fine. But I'm sure to bring some bling to the nipples. There's a quote for someone

 

[DaveInDenver]

Should mention another reason I stick with them is that I usually buy non-tubeless tires, which Stans have hooked and sealed reliably for me.

 

[wesintl]

I don't have to have anno. But given a choice i might match hubs to a frame. Hell, most of the people that run i9s have em anno'd and the only other hubs i like white ind, i9 etc have anno. Anyway, i run the dt swiss e1700 with 54t on the FAT more than the kings.

I haven't pulled a nipple though i've had to true and tension more than i though i would have to.. I haven't had a problem with the sealing so i do give stans props for tape and sealant.