Bender - The Silver 60

[DaveInDenver]

I was thinking carb float, too. Sure sounds like a stuck float that flooded.

It's not ideal to dilute gasoline in the oil. It flushes oil from the cylinder walls and can be bad for the bearings if it displaces oil.

You'd have to serious leak to raise the oil level in the crankcase. You need to look and smell for it in the oil. If you do used oil analysis they will test for unburned fuel (as well as byproducts of burned) in it. It happens when you run rich, too.

Consider that to get liquid gasoline into the oil it has to make it through the intake, past valves and into the chambers, not be evaporated and get past the sealing and oil control rings. So to actually see the oil level rise in the crankcase will take a lot of gasoline. Did you see it on the dipstick?

Don't get freaked out, you caught it quick and there's a lot of oil in a 2F. I'd do an oil change just on principle.

 

[MDH33]

I did have it happen in an old bronco I had. It added enough fuel to the crankcase that it was waaay overfilled. Usually its just the obvious gas smell though.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Thanks @DaveInDenver. Makes sense and I doubt that much fuel went through. I am due for an oil change anyways. Though I will say I think that is the first response you have had to one of my tech questions without at least one math formula. I am a bit disappointed.

No high oil level or gas smell from the oil. I took a chance and drove to lunch today. Zero issues. If I make it home okay I will probably go ahead and start the teardown.

We are talking about a desmogged 2f without a cat so there is always a bit of stink.

I really just need to swap in the rebuilt OEM carb once I track down the remaining parts on my list.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I did have it happen in an old bronco I had. It added enough fuel to the crankcase that it was waaay overfilled. Usually its just the obvious gas smell though.

How long did that take? Was it missing on at least one cylinder?

The 2F 8 quarts (256 ounces) so if all it's doing is draining the bowl and fuel lines it's a few extra ounces. But if one or more cylinders isn't firing then maybe could push a lot of liquid through the engine? Can cranking and not starting do this too?

Forgot to mention @KC Masterpiece, look at the fuel pump, too. If it's not bypassing to the tank correctly it could be pushing too much fuel into the carb.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

How long did that take? Was it missing on at least one cylinder?

The 2F 8 quarts (256 ounces) so if all it's doing is draining the bowl and fuel lines it's a few extra ounces. But if one or more cylinders isn't firing then maybe could push a lot of liquid through the engine? Can cranking and not starting do this too?

Forgot to mention @KC Masterpiece, look at the fuel pump, too. If it's not bypassing to the tank correctly it could be pushing too much fuel into the carb.

Will do on the fuel pump. It only has around 1,000 miles on it. Swapped out a while back.

Too much fuel is a good thought. I have read that the webbers require an additional regulator to keep it under 3psi, and I do not have one.

 

[rckhound]

another quick tip, and you probably already know this but when it’s flooded you can hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking and usually get it to fire. Its allows for maximum air to dilute the excess fuel. Dont pump it just hold it wide open.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

another quick tip, and you probably already know this but when it’s flooded you can hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking and usually get it to fire. Its allows for maximum air to dilute the excess fuel. Dont pump it just hold it wide open.

Thanks Steve. That is what I thought too. Always works on all my gas lawn equipment. I kept cranking and cranking and no luck. Then this morning it fired right up. At 20 degrees no less.

I just need to ditch this weber and bolt on the carb you rebuilt for me.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Drove home fine.

We have a few things going on. But I am going to classify this as a "contributing factor".



The other 3 were all finger tight...

Im aware how gross the filter is. This one was new with the last oil change. No air cleaner sucks.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Turns out the truck runs much better with the carb actually bolted to the intake manifold.

Added a 50mm extention to the t case shifter. Game changer. I can now engage and disengage 4wd without leaning forward.

 

[Rzeppa]

Turns out the truck runs much better with the carb actually bolted to the intake manifold.

 

[Cruisertrash]

Turns out the truck runs much better with the carb actually bolted to the intake manifold.

Had that happen to me right as I got to the top of Imogene pass several years ago. Truck wouldn't hold idle and kept dying, but would stay running at about 1200rpm with the choke out. That was less than ideal trying to engine brake in 4Low down into Telluride. I would have much preferred idling down the mountain at about 700rpm, thank you. So I rode the brakes all the way down stopping at Tomboy to let the them cool down for a while. Got into Telluride and took the highway back to camp in Ouray and it took me about an hour to find three of the carb hold-down nuts spinning freely. Huge vac leak. Truck was right as rain once those got tightened.

I now check the carb nuts way more often than I'd like to admit.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Slowly getting the last bits for the return to factory carb. Cruiserteq has just about everything else I need other than relocating the fusible like replacement kit. The ac lines might need an adjustment for the air cleaner to fit. Lookin sexy.



There are a few other odds and ends in the engine bay that are on my to do list.

These hard line clips have some corrosion. Trying to source replacements.


Also trying to locate a better plug solution for this port on the intake.


Ditto with these ports. There has to be a cleaner deamog solution out there.


Need to modify the top half of the steering shaft cover to fit with the 80 box. Wondering if I should add some insulation on the lines being so close to the exhaust.


And figure out what's going on with the ignition. I believe this is an OEM distributor.



Question for the 2f gurus. Is it worth putting an oil catch can on the pcv line? The weber just has the pcv venting to air with a filter. I have ordered the proper valve and the 2f carb hat has a port for the pcv hose.

Charcoal canister is also one of the last crusty bits. Looking at options for a replacement. Its probably shot anyways. With the weber setup the evap line to the carb just vents to air.

Hopefully I can get the carb fan back in action too.

 

[Cruisertrash]

Toyota sells the intake vacuum source in different variations: one, two, or three nipples. Get the 1x variety. I don’t know the part number but Toyota calls those a “gas filter” and they’re on all the 80s vehicles.


The two BVSV ports in the t-stat housing can be plugged. TLC Performance sells some plugs. I suspect they’re Toyota parts though, line the air rail plugs for the head.


The ignition wiring looks like some monkey business. That green connector with the spade in it - there’s two coming off the igniter and they’re opposite, one male one female. I know one drives the tachometer. The other I think is the signal for the dizzy to fire maybe.

 

[fjc man]

If that’s the original engine the lifter side cover would have an indentation to accommodate a “big cap” distributor. Your distributor is a small cap variety. Your ignitor isn’t original equipment either.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Engine is original to the vehicle and the indent is there. I need to research the difference between the big cap and small cap distributors and why it would have been swapped out. Ignitor is also on the list to return to OEM configuration.

@Cruisertrash Thanks for the info on the plug options.

 

[RDub]

If it’s a points-type distributor maybe it’s this one?

OEM 2F 3F Distributor for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 FJ62 70 Series FJ80

Toyota OEM vacuum advance points distributor. OEM part # 19100-61180. Fits the following applications: '75 to '77 Land Cruiser FJ40 with 2F engine (see details in technical information section below) '81 to '89 non-U.S. Land cruiser FJ60 and FJ62 with carbureted 2F engine '90 to '92 non-U.S...

www.cityracerllc.com

 

[Rzeppa]

FJC man is correct, that isn't the original distributor. The 1980-up 2Fs had the large diameter fully electronic distributor with the indent in the side cover to accommodate the size. Also, the stock distributor has two vacuum advances, one for high altitude compensation and the other for regular ported vacuum advance. And as others have mentioned, that isn't the stock igniter.

 

[Cruisertrash]

If that’s the original engine the lifter side cover would have an indentation to accommodate a “big cap” distributor. Your distributor is a small cap variety. Your ignitor isn’t original equipment either.

Good eye. That looks like a non US “medium cap” dizzy used through the 80s and 90s, still available brand new. Single advance diaphragm and the cute little octane adjustment on the other side. Folks put those in 60s when they desmog, they’re supposed to have a more appropriate advance curve for a truck with no EGR. There will be points in there, though “4Cruisers” on Mud can convert them to electronic. He can also add a dual vac pot for advance and HAC. I see a ballast resistor so definitely not a stock igniter.

Look up on Mud some of Jim Chenoweth’s testing of advance curves. The 2F dizzy gets all in pretty quickly which is appropriate for the EGR setup, but can ping with the EGR removed. The medium cap non-US (might be GCC specific) dizzy has a slightly slower curve for the trucks without EGR. Or have Chenoweth recurve a US bit cap dizzy. Fair warning, he’s got a long list. Or at least he did when I got my dizzy recurved.

 

[Cruisertrash]

If it’s a points-type distributor maybe it’s this one?

OEM 2F 3F Distributor for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ60 FJ62 70 Series FJ80

Toyota OEM vacuum advance points distributor. OEM part # 19100-61180. Fits the following applications: '75 to '77 Land Cruiser FJ40 with 2F engine (see details in technical information section below) '81 to '89 non-U.S. Land cruiser FJ60 and FJ62 with carbureted 2F engine '90 to '92 non-U.S...

www.cityracerllc.com

KC’s looks more like the -61080 with the octane adjustment. These two dizzies are siblings though.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

Good to know! Love all of the knowledge here.

I will probably keep this dizzy, and try to return to an OEM igniter. Engine has not had pinging issues as it is currently setup.

What are thoughts here from the CO crew on the HAC system? Right now I do not have one. I have driven all the passes on 70 and over independence quite a few times with no issues. Is it worth restoring? As far as vacuum routing all I have is.

1. Brake booster
2. Vac advance from the distributor
3. Gas evap (right now just venting to air)
4. PCV (venting to air, soon back to the carb hat)
5. The big line from the left side cover to the carb spacer. I do not know what that one does!


On the carb side. Is the one electrical connection on the AISIN carb a thermosensor for the carb fan? I cant seem to find a pigtail for it in the engine bay. Throttle linkage looks complete with nothing removed for the weber. I ordered new carb studs. Really trying to minimize the number of parts I will need to order mid project.