Adventures in 4Runner'ing

DouglasVB

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I took the 4runner up to RMNP this weekend. It drove decently well although I'm having a lot of vibrations through the t-cases and the leak in the t-cases is getting worse. I ordered the necessary gaskets and the heavy duty t-case mounts from Marlin Crawler today so I should be able to get all of that done this week in time for next weekend. The big problem will be to figure out how to safely and easily get the t-cases in and out of the truck. I'm looking around for the right jack that can handle the job.

The cost of getting a winch plate welded into my existing bumper is surprisingly high. High enough that it would be less expensive to buy a new bumper with the winch plate already installed or to buy a ~$500 welder, learn how to weld, and do it myself. Then I'd also be able to do something about a swing-out tire carrier on my own. I need to figure out what I'm going to do with this welding business soon. Not having a winch and having that spare tire in my cargo area are really bumming my chill :cool:
 

DouglasVB

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DouglasVB

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I have the transfer cases out of the truck again to replace all the seals again. This time with gaskets from Marlin Crawler. Turns out my leak was from two sources:

  1. The bolts on the rear transfer case twin sticks had backed off and allowed oil to escape from between the t-case and the oil slinger plate
  2. The twin sticks from Trail Gear (came with the truck, don't judge!) are allowing oil to leak past from somewhere (I think the stick pivot points). I'll be replacing with a FROR twin stick assembly.
  3. The output shaft nut on the rear propellor shaft had loosened and wallowed out the rear seal :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

None of the case seals were leaking as far as I could tell so that's good. But I opened the cases up anyway to inspect. The silver goop that I had come out before appears to have been from the new 4.7:1 gears carving out a bit more material and everything looks fine. I cleaned out remaining shavings.

I am most of the way through replacing the seals and decided to remove the transmission to transfer case adapter (the one that the transmission shifter comes out of) to replace some of the seals in there (I received those seals from Marlin, too). Now I can't figure out how to get that adapter all the way off of the transmission! It will come off about 1/2" and then go no further. It sounds like something is sticking inside. I've tried hitting it with a rubber mallet and dead blow but to no effect. Any idea how to get the transmission transfer case adapter off the truck? All nine bolts have been removed. I removed the shifter and undid the linkage to make sure none of that was interfering. The Toyota service manual says to only remove those nine bolts and hit it with a hammer. There has to be something simple I'm missing.

Yes, I have been googling for an answer but with no result yet.
 
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AxleIke

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I have the transfer cases out of the truck again to replace all the seals again. This time with gaskets from Marlin Crawler. Turns out my leak was from two sources:

  1. The bolts on the rear transfer case twin sticks had backed off and allowed oil to escape from between the t-case and the oil slinger plate
  2. The twin sticks from Trail Gear (came with the truck, don't judge!) are allowing oil to leak past from somewhere (I think the stick pivot points). I'll be replacing with a FROR twin stick assembly.
  3. The output shaft nut on the rear propellor shaft had loosened and wallowed out the rear seal :eek::eek::eek::eek::eek:

None of the case seals were leaking as far as I could tell so that's good. But I opened the cases up anyway to inspect. The silver goop that I had come out before appears to have been from the new 4.7:1 gears carving out a bit more material and everything looks fine. I cleaned out remaining shavings.

I am most of the way through replacing the seals and decided to remove the transmission to transfer case adapter (the one that the transmission shifter comes out of) to replace some of the seals in there (I received those seals from Marlin, too). Now I can't figure out how to get that adapter all the way off of the transmission! It will come off about 1/2" and then go no further. It sounds like something is sticking inside. I've tried hitting it with a rubber mallet and dead blow but to no effect. Any idea how to get the transmission transfer case adapter off the truck? All nine bolts have been removed. I removed the shifter and undid the linkage to make sure none of that was interfering. The Toyota service manual says to only remove those nine bolts and hit it with a hammer. There has to be something simple I'm missing.

Yes, I have been googling for an answer but with no result yet.


STOP!!! The transmission shifter comes out of the transmission. From the 9 bolts and what you are describing, you are trying to take the transmission apart. This is not good. DO NOT CONTINUE to hit it with a hammer or try to pull it apart. There are more bolts you need to take out, and IIRC some detent balls and springs, and it is better done on the bench.

The transmission has two aluminum cases seperated by a steel plate where the main bearings ride. I'm surprised marlin sent you that seal. At a minimum, they should have sent you two, one for the rear and one for the front, and all of my toyota manuals have always recommended FIPG on that plate, not a paper seal.

At this point, post up a picutre, but I think you are going to have to get the transmission pulled to get that sealed up properly. You can try to reseal with FIPG (which is what the FSM will recommend) on the ground, but its not going to be easy, and I doubt you will be able to clean it out properly. You likely need to pull it apart, clean off the surfaces of the old FIPG, and then apply a new coat. By taking out the bolts and pounding on it, you likely have messed up the seal between the front aluminum case and the front of the steel plate.

As an aside,

There are two types of Transfer case to transmission adapters. The FSM will call the piece you are taking off the "T case to trans adapter", but this is to delineate 2wd and 4wd. Marlin has transfercase to transmisison adapters for non- gear drive transfer cases.

With a 22re, you should have the bellhousing, the transmission, which as I said is three pieces, then the low range part of the transfercase, held on with 6 bolts, then an adapter, then a full transfercase. You do not have a transmission to transfercase adapter such as what Marlin sells.

The 22re came with a W56 trans (in general) and a passenger drop, gear driven RF1A (in general) transfercase. To make a dual case set up on a W56, you only need one adapter, which is why is is cheaper. On my 99, as a counter example, I have an R150 transmission. This has a driver drop, chain drive tcase. The gear drive cases are easily separated into two parts: the low range half, and the 4wd half. The chain drive is not. The chaindrive cases have a different bolt pattern to attach them to the transmission. Therefore, an adapter between the trans and transfercase is needed.

As for gear drive vs chain drive transfercases: on gear drive gears drive the front output shaft, wheras in chain drive a chain does.
 

DouglasVB

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I've removed the restrict pins and reverse switch. Previously I removed the shift lever retainer. The Toyota repair manual I have doesn't show anything else that I can identify to remove before the transfer adapter (that's what this Toyota manual calls it) from the intermediate plate.

The paper gaskets that are on both sides of the intermediate plate look still intact. No tears or creases. The transfer adapter won't slide back far enough to get in and re seal around the intermediate plate with the transfer adapter on the vehicle. Either I drop the transmission or I bolt the transfer adapter back onto the transmission and hope the original gaskets continue to do their job. Neither option is particularly appealing at the moment.

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DouglasVB

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1c58f080f1e877ec5ab77caa8f81f916.jpg


This is with the transfer adapter pushed back together.

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Looking down into the shifter. Note that I removed the restrictor pins and the bolt that holds the shift lever socket( not sure what it's called. Don't see the name in my Toyota manual.)

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This is the manual I'm working from.

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AxleIke

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Let me find my old FSM.
 

AxleIke

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Okay. Sounds like you've got out what you need. You likely are hanging up in the shift head. You removed that bolt but you need to get the head clear of the shift forks. The whole shaft should slide out with the forks, but over time, the shift head (shift and select lever in the manual) may have some wear, causing the shift lever housing to jam on the shift head rail. Can you easily slide the shift lever housing (as the manual calls it) along the shift head rail?

I'd recommend pulling the transmission at this point. I think it's going to be ultimately the better way to go. Those paper gaskets need pretty even torque to seal well on the best of days. It's going to be difficult to do that with the rest of the truck in the way.

Sorry man.
 

AxleIke

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For clarification the shift lever housing is the socket you describe above.
 

DouglasVB

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Yes the shift lever housing slides smoothly with no resistance.

I guess I know what I'm doing when I wake up... Transmission removal! Yay!

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DouglasVB

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Transfer cases are all back together and ready to re install tomorrow. Does it make more sense to put the transmission back in first and then the transfer cases or put them all together outside the truck and then put them back in?

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AxleIke

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It's heavier that way. I'm not sure which is easier. I've done it both ways, and I feel like it was easier to line up the input shaft with the clutch with the trans separate.

Not sure why the shift head rail isn't coming off. Does it slide easily when the transfer adapter is as far off as it will come?

I've been looking at it some more. May be worth trying a few other things before pulling the whole transmission. First, can you twist the shift head shaft up or down? By that I mean, can you turn it enough to get it to clear the shift rails? Alternatively, can you rotate the transfer adapter at all? Is it back far enough to clear the output shaft?

Before you start tomorrow, I'd head down and get some ultra black permatex from Napa or Oreily or someplace. Because of all the snap rings, I think you may be okay on the front of the plate. The idler shaft may be holding that plate together pretty well. See if they sell a rear output seal as well, unless yours looks in good shape or you already have a new one. If it's not been replaced, all of the rigormorale of wrestling it in and out may have bent it a bit, and it will leak into the tcases (DAMHIK).

If you were able to get the back of the transmission off, can you clean up the back of the plate reasonably well?

If so, you can try using the new gasket but put ultra black on both sides. Then, if you can get the bolts in and torqued reasonably well, you may be okay on leaks. The FIPG is pretty forgiving in my experience.

If you end up pulling it, the ultra black is good to use either way.

Also, if you pull it, but a couple of bolts back in and snug them. You don't want the back of the transmission falling off as you take it out and have 5th getting banged up, or gunk in to the housing.
 

rover67

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just make sure surfaces are clean when using FIPG. wipe wiht brake or carb cleaner till squeaky clean then go for it (not too much though).

Sounds like your on your way to getting a nice baseline, sometimes it's harder than others with used vehicles but ultimately you'll know the ins and outs of what you have.

Nice work so far!
 

DouglasVB

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Okay back working on this again. The shifter shaft (I think that's what you mean by the shaft head) only moves in the shifting pattern. In neutral I can rotate it left or right but only within the normal limits. It behaves the same regardless of if I have the transfer adapter out as far as I can gently pull it about a half inch) or completely flush with the transmission. I'll play with it a bit more to see if any other results can be obtained. This is the only rail I have access to. None of the other shift rails that I see in the FSM diagram are accessible.

I have ultra grey that marlin sent me for the transfer case (they called me up and suggested I add it to my order). I can go get ultra black if that's better for the transmission.

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DouglasVB

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Oh I also have Toyota fipg 103 (black) that I used on the oil pan. Dunno if that's the same as ultra black?

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DouglasVB

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Got the adapter off! But I opened the front seal on the intermediate plate. Now dropping the transmission to get to the front bearing retainer.

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DouglasVB

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I guess the plus side of this is now I'll be able to disassemble a drive train for field servicing...

Transmission is almost out. This would suck if the truck had IFS and wasn't lifted.

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DouglasVB

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5efb8bc35c07d3f82e93a7408c5996b8.jpg


Tada!

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Squishy!

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Nice work Douglas, you really like to dive head first into new things, don't ya? :hill:
 
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