Adventures in 4Runner'ing
- Thread starter DouglasVB
- Start date
ScaldedDog
Hard Core 4+
Do you have the stock PS pump? They generally use ATF, not PS fluid, which will leak if used. Is whatever is in the reservoir the same as what you are seeing leak?
I've used Airsoft BBs in my Rockers for years, and it works OK. If you can get them balanced normally, though, that's better.
Mark
I've used Airsoft BBs in my Rockers for years, and it works OK. If you can get them balanced normally, though, that's better.
Mark
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Not that I can see. Both appear to be good although I might not know what I'm looking for. I'll drive the truck to the meeting tomorrow to get some opinions.
The fluid in the PS pump doesn't look like the fluid in the engine bay. The fluid in the PS looks dark while the fluid that's sprayed on the passenger side of the engine bay and out onto the shock and shock tower is clear. No clue if it's the right fluid in the PS system or not.
I think I'll try getting one of the local tire places to give a shot at balancing these tires. If that doesn't work, then I'll go the Airsoft BB route.
ToyodaTocco
Hard Core 4+
He has the bomb proof motor mounts.
http://www.lowrangeoffroad.com/bomb-proof-motor-mounts.html
Be sure to check the note on the product in their description
On your passenger side is your AC Compressor and arb compressor (if I remember correctly), doubt it would be PS related.
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DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Hmm that might be why it vibrates so much at startup. Are you going to be at the meeting on Wednesday, Bill?
Yup that's all that's over on the passenger side. The spray of liquid seems to be about in line with the front of the ARB compressor. That's farther back than the front of the engine and belts. I guess the liquid could be coming from the ARB compressor? It's been running very well although I have noticed a mist of fluid (I assumed it was water) coming out of the valve stems when I pull off the inflator hose from the stems.
Yup that's all that's over on the passenger side. The spray of liquid seems to be about in line with the front of the ARB compressor. That's farther back than the front of the engine and belts. I guess the liquid could be coming from the ARB compressor? It's been running very well although I have noticed a mist of fluid (I assumed it was water) coming out of the valve stems when I pull off the inflator hose from the stems.
ToyodaTocco
Hard Core 4+
I seriously doubt it, it's my wife's BD.
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
If we see you at the meeting, we know that someone will need to give you a couch to sleep on
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
(Dave had commented about the mystery clear oil maybe coming from the diffs up via the ARB air locker hoses and compressor, and spraying out from there. Looks like the comment was deleted though?)
That's actually a good idea I hadn't even considered. I thought the ARB air lockers are supposed to be sealed though? Otherwise wouldn't you end up pressurizing your diff housings?
I have been running the compressor to air up the tires. When I went up to Yankee Hill I did briefly engage both the front and rear lockers when I was at an odd angle in some snow (they worked great!) but otherwise they haven't been engaged. maybe the drive over the passes and down again caused some diff fluid to work its way up and spray out?
That's actually a good idea I hadn't even considered. I thought the ARB air lockers are supposed to be sealed though? Otherwise wouldn't you end up pressurizing your diff housings?
I have been running the compressor to air up the tires. When I went up to Yankee Hill I did briefly engage both the front and rear lockers when I was at an odd angle in some snow (they worked great!) but otherwise they haven't been engaged. maybe the drive over the passes and down again caused some diff fluid to work its way up and spray out?
Squishy!
Rising Sun Member
they are sealed but when the seals start to die, they will suck diff fluid into the lines eventually expelling out the solenoids
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Hmm that could be it then although this fluid doesn't smell like nasty diff fluid. Maybe it's because I very recently replaced all that fluid? Or it could also be separating the diff oil out into constituent components...
Can't wait to rebuild the ARB lockers next fall
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
I did delete the comment, there was unrelated stuff. The relevant part of the comment I made was that I never could get my air locker solenoids to completely stop misting gear oil so I put in vent tubes. The center of the solenoid is threaded for a little push fitting that accepts the same blue hose you use to plumb the lockers themselves. I routed it down the inner fender and pointed down at the ground. Ended up making a little bit of a mess underneath. Mine leaked gear oil back into the plumbing from the first day.
It's been a couple of years but my memory is that there was no question it was gear lube from the smell. But my compressor was on the driver's side fender, so right next to the exhaust and not far from the firewall where a smell like that would be easier to notice. It wasn't much volume, though literally just a drop or two that is getting atomized.
The misting will happen when you disengage the lockers and release the air pressure. It's not something would happen otherwise. But the gear lube works it way back up due to bad seals, either the lockers themselves or the internal pressure of the diff pushes oil past. I never had a problem with my lockers not staying engaged or the compressor running a lot, so I assumed it was the diff pressure. I was always tinkering with extended vents and it wouldn't have surprised me that I was over pressurizing the housings because of that. I also don't know for a fact that it was the internal seals, it could have been in the brass pipe that connects the bulkhead in the housing to the locker.
If it appears to be coming from the ARB compressor or line, maybe it's just condensation or water that's leaked in? If it's not gear oil, that is. I don't remember the ARB compressor really having an issue with moisture in the same way a shop compressor might, but I don't know that it's not possible, either.
It's been a couple of years but my memory is that there was no question it was gear lube from the smell. But my compressor was on the driver's side fender, so right next to the exhaust and not far from the firewall where a smell like that would be easier to notice. It wasn't much volume, though literally just a drop or two that is getting atomized.
The misting will happen when you disengage the lockers and release the air pressure. It's not something would happen otherwise. But the gear lube works it way back up due to bad seals, either the lockers themselves or the internal pressure of the diff pushes oil past. I never had a problem with my lockers not staying engaged or the compressor running a lot, so I assumed it was the diff pressure. I was always tinkering with extended vents and it wouldn't have surprised me that I was over pressurizing the housings because of that. I also don't know for a fact that it was the internal seals, it could have been in the brass pipe that connects the bulkhead in the housing to the locker.
If it appears to be coming from the ARB compressor or line, maybe it's just condensation or water that's leaked in? If it's not gear oil, that is. I don't remember the ARB compressor really having an issue with moisture in the same way a shop compressor might, but I don't know that it's not possible, either.
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
I'll look more closely tonight to try and identify the fluid. It could be gear oil and there isn't enough of it to make a strong smell. Maybe it's time to do a taste test 
The truck will come with me to the meeting tomorrow night so we can all take a gander at it in person. I'm working right now on finding somewhere that can try to balance the tires. So far no luck. Everywhere is either booked until next week (I didn't even know that was a thing at a tire shop!) or won't touch the tires.
The truck will come with me to the meeting tomorrow night so we can all take a gander at it in person. I'm working right now on finding somewhere that can try to balance the tires. So far no luck. Everywhere is either booked until next week (I didn't even know that was a thing at a tire shop!) or won't touch the tires.
Squishy!
Rising Sun Member
I'll look more closely tonight to try and identify the fluid. It could be gear oil and there isn't enough of it to make a strong smell. Maybe it's time to do a taste test
Max (74fj40, I think?) here on the forum works for High Country 4x4. They'll balance them for sure. If you have a vibration that changes when depressing the clutch I would put my money on rear u-joints.
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
The rear u-joint would still be spinning when I press in the clutch though? Is it because the load is removed so it can spin freely?
Squishy!
Rising Sun Member
Yes, loads, tension, position will all affect the vibration.
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DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Just got my tires balanced at Big O here in Golden. They were able to sneak me in and even did the balancing for free. Not bad! I'll take it on the highway tomorrow morning to see how it feels. At low speed it already feels better.
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Thanks to... P...something (guy from Cali with the SASed 4runner frame and 1991 extended cab pickup body) for taking a look at my truck last night! He identified that I have a crack around the base of the filler tube on my radiator. I'll be hunting a new radiator down today from 1-800 Radiator or a similar source. Looking for an all brass radiator. I'd prefer a 3 core radiator but I'll take a 2 core if it's around. I'll repair the old radiator and carry it as a trail spare for longer distance runs.
He also identified the mystery fluid is gear oil coming up from the ARB lockers because the bellows crank case breathers are clogged. I'll puncture the bellows for now and eventually install hoses.
He also suggested I either remove the bomb-proof engine mounts and go back to stock or upgrade the T-case mounts to bomb-proof mounts.
Thanks again, man!
He also identified the mystery fluid is gear oil coming up from the ARB lockers because the bellows crank case breathers are clogged. I'll puncture the bellows for now and eventually install hoses.
He also suggested I either remove the bomb-proof engine mounts and go back to stock or upgrade the T-case mounts to bomb-proof mounts.
Thanks again, man!
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Performance Radiator on south Broadway in Denver will probably have one in stock.
You have either the 20CBR (16.75" tall core, M/T only), 147CBR (16.75" tall core) or 945CBR (15.75" tall core). Should be about $225 or so. I forget the one I used, I want to say 945CBR, but I had a 3rd gen Pickup. The radiators are not all that different from 1979 to 1995 for Pickups and 4Runners. It's just a core height and width and the pattern of the fan shroud and mounting bolts, but if you can take the old one in with you it's the very best way to know.
Most likely it's the 945CBR but verify. Also it is critical you get the CBR version, this is the one made with brass and copper. The regular ones are aluminum and plastic.
You have either the 20CBR (16.75" tall core, M/T only), 147CBR (16.75" tall core) or 945CBR (15.75" tall core). Should be about $225 or so. I forget the one I used, I want to say 945CBR, but I had a 3rd gen Pickup. The radiators are not all that different from 1979 to 1995 for Pickups and 4Runners. It's just a core height and width and the pattern of the fan shroud and mounting bolts, but if you can take the old one in with you it's the very best way to know.
Most likely it's the 945CBR but verify. Also it is critical you get the CBR version, this is the one made with brass and copper. The regular ones are aluminum and plastic.
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Looks like Performance has the 945CBR in stock. I'll give them a call when they open at 8am.
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Does it matter that much that the 945CBR is only a two row rather than three?