DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
AHA! I found the missing gear! It was in a differential rebuild kit box. No clue why I put it there.
Now to find a place with a press open on Sunday...
Now to find a place with a press open on Sunday...
Adventures in 4Runner'ing
- Thread starter DouglasVB
- Start date
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
SUCCESS! (in removing the bearing)
I figured out how to use some levers to pop the bearing off. My bearing/gear puller is long enough to put it back on so I should be all set today... hopefully. Will get back to re-assembling after breakfast.
I figured out how to use some levers to pop the bearing off. My bearing/gear puller is long enough to put it back on so I should be all set today... hopefully. Will get back to re-assembling after breakfast.
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
All back together and on the road again! Next time I need to do something like that, I'm going to buy a proper transmission jack so I don't have to bench-press the t-cases in and out of the truck.
I suspect there might be a leak from either the rear of the engine or the front of the transmission. I'll monitor it. Also could be a leak at the front of the engine above the oil pan. Monitoring that, too. Oh and maybe a leak at the front diff seal. Also monitoring.
The cables from the roof rack are all nicely routed down through the louvers behind the plastic panels on the rear of the door jams. It looks much nicer than when I had them running down the windshield.
The general order of things I am expecting to work on over the next few months (while also having a lot of fun with everyone on the trails this summer) are:
I suspect there might be a leak from either the rear of the engine or the front of the transmission. I'll monitor it. Also could be a leak at the front of the engine above the oil pan. Monitoring that, too. Oh and maybe a leak at the front diff seal. Also monitoring.
The cables from the roof rack are all nicely routed down through the louvers behind the plastic panels on the rear of the door jams. It looks much nicer than when I had them running down the windshield.
The general order of things I am expecting to work on over the next few months (while also having a lot of fun with everyone on the trails this summer) are:
- Figure out why the stereo keeps blowing a fuse (the wiring is less than professional)
- Finish install of remote fuse and relay panel in rear of the truck (wires already pulled in)
- Install remote fuse and relay panel in engine bay (wires already pulled in)
- Install LED lights for under carriage, side lighting, front lighting, etc. (not as many on the front as the last truck... more tasteful this time)
- Weld on winch plate, recovery points, etc to the front bumper (there are places I can run a snatch strap around now but I want good D-ring anchor points)
- Tire swing out on rear tube bumper (already has a Trail Gear rear tube bumper but I need the swing-out and probably a strengthened bumper to hold it)
- Center console for radios (wires all pulled in, space allocated for it, need to either fab or buy a box to fit a CB and a 2M radio.)
- Dual batteries
- Up-rated alternator
- Fix AC (all equipment is in but it doesn't blow cold. Looks like it's still R-12)
- Install SR5 gauge cluster for RPM gauge
- Install on-board reserve air tank(s)??? (still debating what I want to do here... mainly this is to make airing up the tires go more quickly)
- Install reserve fuel tank and water storage where spare tire would have gone (long-term goal of driving up through Canada in some areas with 400+ miles between reliable gas stations)
- 63" rear leaf springs (currently has something longer than stock but shorter than 63". Going to see how it goes this summer before I really make any decisions here)
- ARB or similar fridge
- Rear cargo area storage and slides and etc etc etc (Probably work on this next winter. Goal is to have a semi-lightweight solution to store all my tools and recovery gear plus camping gear and other such stuff. Possibly make it have a platform for sleeping, too?)
- ????
- PROFIT!
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Are the leaks engine oil or gear oil?
You may be aware of this, but if it's engine oil and doesn't appear to be coming from inside the bellhousing (which would be rear main seal), it's very common that the half moon gaskets leak, which covers the back side in oil. Some people recommend using RTV but I found that just replacing them once in a while was fine. The rubber tends to dry out and loose its compression from the exposure to heat and oil.
You may be aware of this, but if it's engine oil and doesn't appear to be coming from inside the bellhousing (which would be rear main seal), it's very common that the half moon gaskets leak, which covers the back side in oil. Some people recommend using RTV but I found that just replacing them once in a while was fine. The rubber tends to dry out and loose its compression from the exposure to heat and oil.
ToyodaTocco
Hard Core 4+
Or the distributor o-ring For the front leak....
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DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Could be the source in front for sure. I was thinking the back leak, it's not uncommon to think rear main when it's just the half moons.
ToyodaTocco
Hard Core 4+
Sounds like he has all the normal 22r leaks, right, Dave?
I've always put RTV on the rear half moon but they do need regular replacement also. The valve cover gasket set is cheap.
I also had my valve cover nuts loosen up over time and oil was leaking from the rear of it. Just be sure not to tighten them down to much or the rocker arms will contact the oil baffle. Found that one out the hard way.
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Douglas will soon be the expert on everything mini truck. He's shortcircuited the learning curve for most of us by a decade and gone straight to DEFCON 5 on everything.
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
(With apologies to Pandemic II)
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Are the leaks engine oil or gear oil?
You may be aware of this, but if it's engine oil and doesn't appear to be coming from inside the bellhousing (which would be rear main seal), it's very common that the half moon gaskets leak, which covers the back side in oil. Some people recommend using RTV but I found that just replacing them once in a while was fine. The rubber tends to dry out and loose its compression from the exposure to heat and oil.
Yeah that and the valve cover nuts are things that I will be checking for the leak at the back of the engine. There was too much gear oil from the t-case leak (looked like someone had murdered a 55 gallon drum under there) to tell if it's gear oil or if it's engine oil. After more driving, I should get a better feel for it.
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Oh that's an interesting idea. I'll check that out next time I have the truck somewhere I can put a step ladder in front of it to access the engine bay
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Unrelated to oil leaks: I FINALLY figured out the radiator cap from Toyota for the radiator in this thing. It's the cap that fits on the 1980 pickup radiator (and also I think on most 40 series and maybe a few 60 series radiators). Now I have a genuine Toyota cap installed. Haven't had time to get it hot enough yet to verify that I'm not still losing fluid out the cap area. Hopefully this evening I'll have time to do that.
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Somewhat related to maintenance: since I bought everything to rebuild the front and rear diffs, the t-cases, the birfields, and the hubs, now I can throw all of that into my trail repair kit. Self-sufficiency: here I come!
(still need to sell the excess other stuff...)
(still need to sell the excess other stuff...)
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Looks like maybe I don't have any significant leaks now. I drove the truck from Golden to downtown Denver and back (hit up the REI sale!) and I didn't see any signs of anything major. There is a tiny amount of coolant around the radiator cap but I suspect it is pre-existing. Fluid level in the overflow bottle is perfect.
I'll keep watching all of the fluid levels over the next 100 miles.
I'll keep watching all of the fluid levels over the next 100 miles.
ScaldedDog
Hard Core 4+
I know you haven't had a chance to wheel it yet, but how do you like the feel of the new gear ratios you have?
Mark
Mark
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
I'll be attempting to wheel it today around Yankee Hill. Want to come and retrieve me when I get into trouble?
The 4.7 on its own feels very nice. Using both the 2.28 and 4.7 together is ridiculously slow but I can definitely see the utility of that option. The 2.28 alone will be good for staying up with the 4x4 herd.
ScaldedDog
Hard Core 4+
I'd love to, but I don't wheel my junk anymore, I just work on it. [Sigh]
Enjoy the day!
Mark
Enjoy the day!
Mark
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
Today while driving around, I noticed a distinct wobble that occurs after going over a bump in the road when going faster than about 20 mph. It doesn't wobble driving straight down the road but going over a bump, like a bad railroad crossing, makes a pretty good wobble in the front end set in. I can get it back under control no problem but this is a new thing that wasn't there before yesterday's 4x4 test run up Yankee Hill.
I went through and checked torque on: lug nuts, spring bolts, steering arm bolts, steering stabilizer bolts. I also verified that all of the castle nuts and cotter pins were where they should be on the tie rod ends and pitman arm. Everything looks good and feels tight. The tire pressure is 34 PSI all the way around on all four tires.
What else should I be checking? Could the toe have gone out of alignment?
I went through and checked torque on: lug nuts, spring bolts, steering arm bolts, steering stabilizer bolts. I also verified that all of the castle nuts and cotter pins were where they should be on the tie rod ends and pitman arm. Everything looks good and feels tight. The tire pressure is 34 PSI all the way around on all four tires.
What else should I be checking? Could the toe have gone out of alignment?
DaveInDenver
Rising Sun Ham Guru
Death wobble!
Do you know if the knuckle cut and rotate was done?
Do you know if the knuckle cut and rotate was done?
DouglasVB
Rising Sun Member
No I don't know if it was or not. This wobble wasn't there on Friday. Townsend was using the truck as a commuter so I don't think he was driving it with a death wobble.
ALL NEW FOR SUMMER 2016: Mort de la Secousse!
What should I be looking for to see if it was cut and rotated?
ALL NEW FOR SUMMER 2016: Mort de la Secousse!
What should I be looking for to see if it was cut and rotated?