More than likely you have some rust on the rings/cylinders. It's probably not much. I would squirt some PB blaster or even a cap full of ATF in the spark plug holes and let that sit for a day or two. Then try to turn it and feel for roughness. Even if it has been sealed from the elements the surface rust on the shiny bare cylinders is common. When a running engine sits for a long time the oil on the cylinders disappears and the moisture in the air will attack. Is rarely done but any engine that has been run should get a couple squirts of oil in all cylinders if it's gonna sit for a long time!
1973 FJ40 build
- Thread starter timmbuck2
- Start date
More than likely you have some rust on the rings/cylinders. It's probably not much. I would squirt some PB blaster or even a cap full of ATF in the spark plug holes and let that sit for a day or two. Then try to turn it and feel for roughness. Even if it has been sealed from the elements the surface rust on the shiny bare cylinders is common. When a running engine sits for a long time the oil on the cylinders disappears and the moisture in the air will attack. Is rarely done but any engine that has been run should get a couple squirts of oil in all cylinders if it's gonna sit for a long time!
Oops...your quick! I edited my post you quoted....
Look in the sp holes with a flashlight.....if you can see any rust or the "orange milk of death" your gonna have to pull the head and check it out!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
"orange milk of death"
I laughed when I created a mental image of the beast who's teet this must come from.
But I'm bummed to hear that the 2F might need further surgery.
doesn't look good. sprayed PB Blaster in there 5 times in the last 24 hours. used a crow bar, BFH screwdriver, etc. and nothing. put the propane heater on it for an hour to make sure it was nicely thawed out, and nothing. all cylinders look pretty good, but #1 has a little orange sludge. Mike says it was running fine when it was taken out of the fj60.
any other ideas? I am stuck. and bummed.
Chris. thanks for that crank, but there was no place to put it.....
thanks everyone
any other ideas? I am stuck. and bummed.
Chris. thanks for that crank, but there was no place to put it.....
thanks everyone
Shark Bait
Rising Sun Member
Bummer, Timm. On a 2F from an FJ40 the nut on the crank pulley has some "tabs" for the manual crank.
Sounds like it's time to go shopping.
Oh please nooooo...orange sludge (orange milk of death) is not good! It got water in it from sitting outside and it reacted with the aluminum pistons and the steel cylinders! You have to pull the head! With luck it's hasn't been in it long enough to pit the cyl walls too deep or corrode the rings to the piston! Maybe it's not that bad but at this point you really need to pull the head and make sure! Sorry Timm!
WAY over my head. Guess I need to start looking for another 2f, or go get that running FJ40 in Billings. Sigh.
So thanks for all the help offers for Saturday, but if I cannot even get the crank to turn to take off the clutch and flywheel, we won't have much to do but drink beer and BS. Hmm...
Anyway, if any engine expert wants to peek in my spark plug holes, feel free to drop by.
I guess I will start looking for a new 2f.
Thanks again everyone!!!
T
Anyway, if any engine expert wants to peek in my spark plug holes, feel free to drop by.
I guess I will start looking for a new 2f. Thanks again everyone!!!
T
The F155 is mine if I want it on CL. The 2F I will call about again. The 2F I already have is probably in better shape than either of those engines. If I catch those )*^#*#.......
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
I don't know whether these engines can be put on a stand with the BH still on - I've always taken it off to mount it to the stand using the BH holes in the block.
Another tack might be to pull the pan. You can whack on the crank with a large rubber mallet to get it unstuck. With the head off, you can whack on a piston top with a section of 2x4 and small sledge. In either case, pick a piston which is halfway through it's travel for maximum leverage on getting the crank to turn.
I've got a couple spare pan gaskets if you decide to pull the pan.
Sorry to hear about the tranny and t-case - what happened?
I have a spare 3-speed tranny and t-case if you're interested.
Another tack might be to pull the pan. You can whack on the crank with a large rubber mallet to get it unstuck. With the head off, you can whack on a piston top with a section of 2x4 and small sledge. In either case, pick a piston which is halfway through it's travel for maximum leverage on getting the crank to turn.
I've got a couple spare pan gaskets if you decide to pull the pan.
Sorry to hear about the tranny and t-case - what happened?
I have a spare 3-speed tranny and t-case if you're interested.
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
I've never been concerned with order when removing head bolts, only when putting the head back on. But yes, the order for torquing them down will be in the 2F manual.thanks, not sure when I will be home. should get it on a stand, don't like it swinging around.