1973 FJ40 build

[Rzeppa]

3. oil pan gasket?? any opinions on this? While I have it off....and it sounds like dropping the pan makes the rear main seal an easier job.

4. rear main seal (bought the PVC cleanout plug yesterday to help the job)

5. Anything I am forgetting?

Once I get this all done, I think I might be ready to drop the engine in. Would really appreciate an experienced set of eyeballs for when I put the clutch in and re-mount the tranny to the engine. Thanks for all the advice and help and parts!!

Timm

3. The rear main seal doesn't care whether the pan's off or not, the job is the same. Unless the current one leaks, leave well enough alone. They are totally separate jobs.

4. It should although I've always done it the "hard" way and tapped gently all around with a rubber shot-filled hammer and try to keep it square on the way in.

5. RTV sealant, nitryl gloves, solvent, bucket and brush to clean stuff (if you don't have a parts washer, no idea how I ever did anything without one), lots of rags. Brake fluid for the clutch M/C-slave. Safety goggles for working underneath. FSM!

When you order in parts, don't forget new bolts and washers for the motor mounts. Old ones are often corroded, especially the rears.

And as I mentioned, the load leveler is really handy when dropping the whole thing (engine/BH/tranny/t-case), the assembly's really heavy in the rear in this configuration.

 

[Rzeppa]

I am using a 2f, 4 speed, split tcase from a 62. If the clutch kit will work, I will take it. Let me know if you bring it down the hill.
Timm

Huh? A 1962 has a 3-speed and solid case, and FJ62 (USA spec anyway) is an automatic tranny. I am guessing you mean FJ60?

In any event, there is another consideration, VERY IMPORTANT! The stock 3 speed clutch slave is on the driver's side of the BH, the stock 4 speed slave is on the passenger side! This is among several reasons that when I did my 4 speed conversion on my 71 I kept my 3 speed clutch.

You will need to re-route the hardline for the clutch hydraulic line over the firewall to the passenger side for the 4 speed clutch. Many parts stores sell pre-flared hydraulic tubing in various lengths. You'll probably want to measure the length the tubing will need to go, then buy some tubing and a bender for this. IIRC, the later master and slave will be M10x1.00 threads, with 3/16" OD tubing. My 71 was a different thread (British IIRC) with 1/4" OD hardlines, and when I replace my clutch M/C some time ago I had to graft the two systems together.

See my write-up here on using a later clutch master with my existing 71 plumbing. The older clutch masters where the original plumbing would thread right up are discontinued.

 

[timmbuck2]

Sorry...the 2f, 4spd, and split tcase all came from Root out of a donor FJ60, they were all together in the FJ60.

I noticed last night that the 4spd clutch was on the "wrong side". Sigh. More work.

T

Huh? A 1962 has a 3-speed and solid case, and FJ62 (USA spec anyway) is an automatic tranny. I am guessing you mean FJ60?

In any event, there is another consideration, VERY IMPORTANT! The stock 3 speed clutch slave is on the driver's side of the BH, the stock 4 speed slave is on the passenger side! This is among several reasons that when I did my 4 speed conversion on my 71 I kept my 3 speed clutch.

You will need to re-route the hardline for the clutch hydraulic line over the firewall to the passenger side for the 4 speed clutch. Many parts stores sell pre-flared hydraulic tubing in various lengths. You'll probably want to measure the length the tubing will need to go, then buy some tubing and a bender for this. IIRC, the later master and slave will be M10x1.00 threads, with 3/16" OD tubing. My 71 was a different thread (British IIRC) with 1/4" OD hardlines, and when I replace my clutch M/C some time ago I had to graft the two systems together.

See my write-up here on using a later clutch master with my existing 71 plumbing. The older clutch masters where the original plumbing would thread right up are discontinued.

 

[Rzeppa]

Sorry...the 2f, 4spd, and split tcase all came from Root out of a donor FJ60, they were all together in the FJ60.

I noticed last night that the 4spd clutch was on the "wrong side". Sigh. More work.

T

That's okay Timm, I was trying to thing of the "gotchas" beforehand.

Speaking of gotchas, what all smog gear and ancillaries does this 2F from the 60 come with? Carb, air cleaner, manifolds and head are all lots different from a 73 F...

 

[corsair23]

Let me know a good time to crawl.

Most nights I'm home Timm with the girls, usually after 6:00pm so just let me know if you're wanting to come by

I've got some "extra" stuff hanging off my engine (OBA) and non-OEM carb (Weber) but otherwise it is pretty stock. My tranny however is an SM420 if that matters regarding what you are wanting to see.

 

[treerootCO]

Sorry...the 2f, 4spd, and split tcase all came from Root out of a donor FJ60, they were all together in the FJ60.

I noticed last night that the 4spd clutch was on the "wrong side". Sigh. More work.

T

You can flip it over to the other side without any issues. The fork rotates, the piviot has the hole drilled and tapped, and the bellhousing has a cutout on both sides for the fork.

 

[timmbuck2]

I was wondering about that...cool! Thanks!

T

You can flip it over to the other side without any issues. The fork rotates, the piviot has the hole drilled and tapped, and the bellhousing has a cutout on both sides for the fork.

 

[Rzeppa]

You can flip it over to the other side without any issues.

The main issue is routing the hydraulic line. Secondary are whether the threads fit

 

[farnhamstj]

Dealing with the hydraulic line was much easier than I expected. I borrowed a flairing tool and had no problems making what I needed with hand full of premade lengths from Carquest. I had to mix & match but nothing leaked when it was all done. I did brake lines from MC to caliper.

 

[Rzeppa]

Dealing with the hydraulic line was much easier than I expected. I borrowed a flairing tool and had no problems making what I needed with hand full of premade lengths from Carquest. I had to mix & match but nothing leaked when it was all done. I did brake lines from MC to caliper.

I've made my own too, but have been surprised to learn that many times, the pre-made lengths are cheaper than buying the tubing and fittings separately.

 

[timmbuck2]

got the motor inside. thanks Subzali and Ricardo!

taking off the bellhousing...I assume I need to spin the flywheel around to get to all the bolts on the clutch cover, correct? guess I need to spin the crank? I am such a newbie with the 2f.

T

 

[Rzeppa]

got the motor inside. thanks Subzali and Ricardo!

taking off the bellhousing...I assume I need to spin the flywheel around to get to all the bolts on the clutch cover, correct? guess I need to spin the crank? I am such a newbie with the 2f.

T

You will need to remove the flywheel to get at the BH bolts, yes. You can get all 6 flywheel bolts off through the hole in the back of the BH. Note the locking plates, you need to flatten them to get the bolts off. Use a big screwdriver and hammer for that. Air impact is best to get the bolts off, but barring that, you'll need to hold the flywheel from turning if you use hand tools. Use a big screwdriver or prybar on the teeth to hold it.

 

[timmbuck2]

Hmm...flywheel is NOT moving. Cannot get to all the clutch bolts.

You will need to remove the flywheel to get at the BH bolts, yes. You can get all 6 flywheel bolts off through the hole in the back of the BH. Note the locking plates, you need to flatten them to get the bolts off. Use a big screwdriver and hammer for that. Air impact is best to get the bolts off, but barring that, you'll need to hold the flywheel from turning if you use hand tools. Use a big screwdriver or prybar on the teeth to hold it.

 

[timmbuck2]

hmm....how bad is it that I cannot even budge the flywheel??? that seems bad to me....

 

[Shark Bait]

hmm....how bad is it that I cannot even budge the flywheel??? that seems bad to me....

Did you try pulling the plugs? Have you tried a crowbar on the flywheel?

 

[timmbuck2]

will pull the plugs next...someone has not brought my crowbar back from when I left it at the kiosk.

 

[Shark Bait]

will pull the plugs next...someone has not brought my crowbar back from when I left it at the kiosk.

You can borrow mine when you come by tomorrow night.

 

[Rzeppa]

No matter how fantastic the compression is, you don't need a crowbar to turn the flywheel, with or without plugs. A large screwdriver or small to medium sized pry bar works fine.

Did the engine run when it was pulled?

 

[timmbuck2]

I could not budge it with my hands...I will go try a screwdriver, but it feels pretty stuck. Treeroot said it was running when it was in the FJ60...maybe he has more info.

 

[Shark Bait]

Yeah, a BF screwdriver should work, too.