Kindof a hijack, but what is this about an FJ40 bellhousing? Is the 60 series bellhousing a different shape that interferes with stuff?
I would look at the frame and axles and see how much rust is on them. If they look pretty bad I might consider buzzing them down and painting them, except it's hard to do with the body on and the sooner this truck gets running the better (i.e. no removing the body) so you don't run out of gas on the project. I'd probably leave it unless it's really bad.
If it were me, I would do a 2F-4spd-3spdcase combo if only for the ebrake thing at the moment, and Hatfield mentioned something about 4spd guts inside 3spd case, I don't know what that's about. The t-case isn't *all* that hard to remove later if you feel you want to go with split case.
Martin's probably right while it's out you might as well separate everything, replace rear main and clutch, then I guess it's a wash whether to stab it all as a unit or piece it together as you put it back in the truck. I guess I would take the shifters off and stab the engine, tranny and t-case all at once.
If you have good u-joints for the driveshafts, a retube/relength is about $110 give or take at Englewood Driveshaft. If you don't have the u-joints/old driveshaft it's obviously going to cost to get those.
The engine ran when it got pulled from the 60 so I would *maybe* desmog it if it hasn't already been done but I would try to get it running and then decide if the carb needs to be rebuilt or not. Like has been said Jim C. is out a few months, you could try Mark A. or a couple other places if you really wanted it done.
My
I would look at the frame and axles and see how much rust is on them. If they look pretty bad I might consider buzzing them down and painting them, except it's hard to do with the body on and the sooner this truck gets running the better (i.e. no removing the body) so you don't run out of gas on the project. I'd probably leave it unless it's really bad.
If it were me, I would do a 2F-4spd-3spdcase combo if only for the ebrake thing at the moment, and Hatfield mentioned something about 4spd guts inside 3spd case, I don't know what that's about. The t-case isn't *all* that hard to remove later if you feel you want to go with split case.
Martin's probably right while it's out you might as well separate everything, replace rear main and clutch, then I guess it's a wash whether to stab it all as a unit or piece it together as you put it back in the truck. I guess I would take the shifters off and stab the engine, tranny and t-case all at once.
If you have good u-joints for the driveshafts, a retube/relength is about $110 give or take at Englewood Driveshaft. If you don't have the u-joints/old driveshaft it's obviously going to cost to get those.
The engine ran when it got pulled from the 60 so I would *maybe* desmog it if it hasn't already been done but I would try to get it running and then decide if the carb needs to be rebuilt or not. Like has been said Jim C. is out a few months, you could try Mark A. or a couple other places if you really wanted it done.
My
Bummer. I thought it might work..
Thanks!
That was funny Wes, that sounds like me! 
