1973 FJ40 build

[Shark Bait]

Tim,

From looking at your pictures, and my own personal bias (read laziness), I wouldn't re-paint the entire engine bay. I'd remove that thing that looks like a dual battery tray and scrape/brush and paint over the rusty and exposed metal places. That's all. You can get carried away with touch up.

Chris

 

[74fj40]

If you do decide to repaint the entire engine bay (its extra work for sure, but much easier now while the engine's out) - we primed and then top coated with spray cans of undercoating from checker/ace. Looks great and so far pretty durable.

 

[timmbuck2]

If you do decide to repaint the entire engine bay (its extra work for sure, but much easier now while the engine's out) - we primed and then top coated with spray cans of undercoating from checker/ace. Looks great and so far pretty durable.

Cool, thanks for the info. Any pics? Was the primer high-temp? How rough texture was the undercoating?

T

 

[MDH33]

Cool, thanks for the info. Any pics? Was the primer high-temp? How rough texture was the undercoating?

T

I would vote for just cleaning it up and keeping it original for now. If you decide to do a full blown resto on the body in the future, you'll be dismantling it anyway. For now I would just clean it up and enjoy it with it's original patina.

 

[wesintl]

I would vote for just cleaning it up and keeping it original for now. If you decide to do a full blown resto on the body in the future, you'll be dismantling it anyway. For now I would just clean it up and enjoy it with it's original patina.

I agree, That cruiser looks pretty clean from the photos esp what still has blue paint on it. It's the rusty stuff i'd clean up and put black paint on. That should keep you busy for a while...

btw nice reverse lamp
http://www.timmandstacy.com/1973FJ40/target63.html

if you want to get rid of this switch on the right below the blank let me know
http://www.timmandstacy.com/1973FJ40/target61.html

 

[MDH33]

btw nice reverse lamp
http://www.timmandstacy.com/1973FJ40/target63.html

Yeah that '73 reverse lamp is a hard to replace part. Very cool.

if you want to get rid of this switch on the right below the blank let me know
http://www.timmandstacy.com/1973FJ40/target61.html

What is that switch for?? I have one too but it doesn't seem to be connected to anything.

 

[Shark Bait]

Panic button?

It opens and closes the convertible top?

Might be a hazard switch. I have some old switches like that that are red.

 

[Shark Bait]

From SOR's website. 1968-1972 dash. It's a switch for an interior light when you have a canvas top.

 

[wesintl]

It's definatly a "room lamp" switch...

 

[timmbuck2]

ok, been searching here and on Mud for hours, thought I would post before it drives me nutty. Put the original (I think) dual MC on the 40 today with a booster I grabbed from Shark Bait (THANKS!) Got everything hooked up and filled with fluid. Both pressure switches are leaking fluid, the rear one drained in 30 minutes. I am guessing they are not supposed to leak out the pressure switches. Worth trying to rebuild? I see on SOR I can replaced just the switches, but if the seals are bad there, I would guess they are all bad. After I pumped the brakes a few times there was also fluid sprayed in the engine bay, so I think they are leaking good. Or I am doing something very newbie wrong? Thanks.

T

PS-I have pics, will post tomorrow.

 

[Rezarf]

Tim-

I painted my inner fenders and engine bay with the engine out, I didn't use the high temp paint, it seemed a little over kill. I used the Rustoleum hard hat industrial stuff and I got great results, just follow the instructions for recoat times and prep.

Mark a line on the fenders before removing them to know where to run a tape/masking line to keep your color on the outside looking good. Oh, and mask off the vents in the sides of the cowls area (above the kick vents) I didn't and over spray went through them.

I think it does wonders for "cleaning up" an old truck.

Just my .02

 

[timmbuck2]

Tim-

I painted my inner fenders and engine bay with the engine out, I didn't use the high temp paint, it seemed a little over kill. I used the Rustoleum hard hat industrial stuff and I got great results, just follow the instructions for recoat times and prep.

Mark a line on the fenders before removing them to know where to run a tape/masking line to keep your color on the outside looking good. Oh, and mask off the vents in the sides of the cowls area (above the kick vents) I didn't and over spray went through them.

I think it does wonders for "cleaning up" an old truck.

Just my .02

Cool...what color did you use? Any pics? You remember how many coats you used? I put 2 primer coats and 2 black coats on my brake booster, and it still got all scratched up when I mounted it on the truck.

Thanks!

T

 

[timmbuck2]

I too have some headlights you can have. They were functioning on my 40 until about 2 weeks ago.

Why buy new skyjackers? There are stock leafs growing wild in Mike's backyard.. and other places as well. seems that $700 would be better spent elsewhere, today. just a thought.

Cool, the headlights would be much appreciated.

I think I am goint to grab some stock 40 leafs from Ben's old 40. Should be an easy swap? Anything I need to worry about??

Thanks all!

T

 

[timmbuck2]

UPDATES:

I have brakes. Found the right bolt in the coffee can, filled with fluid, and bled the system. The nasty dark rusty fluid is out and the brakes work well enough to stop the 40 from rolling out of the garage! So I moved on to the beautiful leaf springs. Ige is trying to tell me this is not stock, is she crazy? Got the damaged leaf off last night with some help from a BFH. Picking up the used leafs this weekend, will probably go ahead and swap out all 4 while I am at it. Had my first 40 related injury...went to go under the 40 to bleed the brakes and forgot the broken leaf was hanging so low...right on my forehead. Nice golf-ball sized knot. Luckily, I have a very hard head. Wife was surprised when she pulled in the garage at 10pm, and I come out from under the truck with a huge knot and blood on my forehead. I am a hockey player, so I guess she is used to it. Thanks again for all the support and advice! Hope to see a lot of you this weekend at the raffle rig.

T

ps-pics later...

 

[farnhamstj]

Glad you're making progress. That spring looks stock to me, just not the shape of it. I found 3M wheels that look like a big black scotch brite to work much better than wire wheels, but you can eat them fast on sharp edges. Are you driving that to CM07? If so, you may have hit your head a little harder than you thought.

 

[timmbuck2]

help please!

OK, if I am going to make it to eh 40's Only Run in September, I need to get to work on this engine...so how does everyone's schedule look like the next couple of weeks. I know...very busy time for everyone, but would be awesome to maybe find a weeknight or 2 if weekends are scarce to at least get the engine in the truck so I can start work on getting it running and get the driveshafts measured, exhaust work, electrical, etc etc. Thanks to Subzali for volunteering to help, he mentioned motor mounts...it originally had an F and I am putting in a 2F...I will post a pic later of what is in the truck now, but here is a link to a pic...

Anything else I should make sure I have in place before dropping the sucker? Fluids, etc?

I do need to go get the tank that Ige (THANKS!!!!) gave me relined...

Thanks to all for helping this newbie out. I am contributing as much as I can to the club as a whole, and can't wait to share everything I learn with the newbies that will be here....

Timm


OOPS....posted in 2 places...please use this thread....thanks.

 

[MDH33]

I'm no expert, but I can lend a hand.

Have you done any research about your throttle linkages? That might be something else that will need to be modified when switching from the F to 2F. Motor mounts will be the same. Toyota sells the FJ60 2F style (square) as replacement for the crumby round ones. CDan can hook you up with those.

Questions:

Is this a 2F from a 40 or 60??

What carb is on the engine?

Smog stuff?

What trans/TC are you going to run?

Does it have manual or power steering?

 

[timmbuck2]

I will call Cdan right now, thanks for the tip.

2f from a 60. Treeroot can fill in the details. No idea on carb or smog stuff. Has the 4speed and split t-case already attached to the engine. Hmmm...will I need to cut a new hole in the floor? Manual steering....


Thanks!!!

Timm

I'm no expert, but I can lend a hand.

Have you done any research about your throttle linkages? That might be something else that will need to be modified when switching from the F to 2F. Motor mounts will be the same. Toyota sells the FJ60 2F style (square) as replacement for the crumby round ones. CDan can hook you up with those.

Questions:

Is this a 2F from a 40 or 60??

What carb is on the engine?

Smog stuff?

What trans/TC are you going to run?

Does it have manual or power steering?

 

[Romer]

No need for Smog stuff on a 73, wasn't required. All the smog stuff was removed on my 2F in Tim's new 77 FJ40 and it passed fine twice (Once for each owner)

Go with a 2 barrel Asian crab. If you can get it rebuilt by Jim Chenworth (FJ40Jim on Mud) you couldn't do better. he is the guru of Asian carbs.
Don't think you will have to cut a hole in the floor, but Ige could tell you.


If I can help will depend on when.

 

[treerootCO]

I'll have to find a thread on mud I read once. The motor will bolt in with the later style motor mounts on the engine side. The bell housing mounts will need to be sourced from the earlier style. If I remember correctly, you can add the old mounts to the new bell housing but might need to tap and drill a hole. The other option is to adapt the newer crossmember that is used in the splitcase to the older truck.

Some people don't but if you run an older truck through colorado air care inc. they will do a visual for smog even if it meets the 25 yr plus rules.