1973 FJ40 build

[SteveH]

You will need a early style bellhousing to easily bolt an FJ60 tranny into an early FJ40 frame. I suppose you could drill/tap the FJ60 bellhousing (as Treeroot suggested), but that may not be worth the trouble. You may also need to move the clutch fork to the other side of the tranny depending on where your clutch line is on the truck. Just pay attention to this as it all comes together.

Also, you will likely find that the tunnel cover rests on the top of the 4 speed tranny and you will either need a body lift or to modify the tunnel cover (more than a little) to clear the tranny. If you let the tunnel cover just sit on the tranny, you'll hear evil sounds in your truck, amplified by the tunnel cover. Mine was unbearably loud. With an FJ60 trans/xfer you won't have a parking brake, either - just an FYI.

 

[timmbuck2]

ok, is it really worth the 2f and 4 speed then?? Why shouldn't I just get a decent F and drop it in there? I have the 3speed and Tcase (I think...) I thought this was going to be a bolt-in job, and I don't have the skills yet for a 4-banana job...

T

 

[MDH33]

Does your rig still have the stock 3 speed and TC in it? If so, it might be easier to leave them in and just use the 2F with the 3 speed. I'm running this set-up in my 73 with a '69 Aisan 2 barrel and all smog stuff removed. Works great.

Edit: just missed your post above. Bolt the 2F to the 3 speed and you'll be ready to go.

 

[timmbuck2]

I have the 3 speed in my garage...not sure about the t-case. Nothing is on the truck...sounds easier to just find an F. Then Treeroot can sell the 2f to someone else.

T

 

[Shark Bait]

It's a little work, but in the end it'll be worth it. I'd get me the conversion gear kit for the 3-speed t-case and mount it up to the 4-speed tranny. Moving the clutch fork is easy. Then you have an e-brake, which you'll need for Cruise Moab. Find drive shafts from a 4-speed and they will be the right length. It's all very doable.

If you want, Tim, you can use the 3-speed bell housing on the 2F. No problem. Then maybe find a floor shifter for the 3-speed. But I'll bet someone has a FJ40 4-speed bell housing you could use. You'll be happier with the 4-speed tranny.

 

[treerootCO]

The 2F has the same bolt pattern on the back of the engine. It will bolt directly to a 3speed bell housing, a 4 speed bell housing, or the FJ60 style 4 speed bell housing. The clutch flips from left to right throughout all the years so all the bell housings are made with the hook up to either side. I run a 3 speed bell housing behind my 2F with a 4 speed flywheel, an SM465 transmission, and a 3 speed style transfer case. My t-case is an Orion modified with all the 4 speed t-case shifter linkage. It all bolts up like legos, lincoln logs, erector set type ease.
http://www.root45.com/SM465Orion/

Just in case you were going to ask, I would not run an SM465 if I had the choice to do it again. A stock H42 4speed is one of the greatest transmissions ever made. http://www.root45.com/SM465Orion/Gears.htm

 

[Romer]

You will be glad you have the 4 speed. really glad

I took the 40 to a mom and pop shop for emissions not Colorado air care. Was told it was easier to get it through.

Also, get the 5 year collector plate and you will never have to get emissions done as long as you own your vehicle.

 

[timmbuck2]

Well, honestly, right now I am leaning toward selling the 40 and all the parts I have, and giving the 2f back to Treeroot. Then I could put the cash towards an already completed 40 (Nakman?) and not have to bother anyone to get my truck running. The 80 will be my main trail truck anyway...

T

 

[timmbuck2]

http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?p=44947#post44947

 

[corsair23]

I can certainly understand given that I sold my '76 because I didn't have the time to dedicate to it and it was running and all, just needed some attention to the body.

Just don't get any ideas about trying to bring that TV back

 

[timmbuck2]

Silly for the 40 to just sit there...and the engine, too. Might as well get them to someone who knows what they are doing and can get it running.

You never know when that TV may show up on your front porch......



T

I can certainly understand given that I sold my '76 because I didn't have the time to dedicate to it and it was running and all, just needed some attention to the body.

Just don't get any ideas about trying to bring that TV back

 

[timmbuck2]

I guess I will be doing more of a resto than I originally planned. I am taking the time to strip and paint the engine bay as discussed a few pages back, and hopefully strip and paint the axles, frame, anything I can get my grinder on. Might as well take care of this stuff until I can get some help with the engine. Can anyone please give me some advice on what I need to get figured out before I drop the 2f in the 40? Motor mounts I need. It is a 2f with 4 speed and split t-case. I am not concerned with the parking brake yet, I know that will be an issue eventually. Thanks again for all the help and advice, especially Subzali!!



Timm

 

[Shark Bait]

Tim, Just like the other thread, you'll need an FJ40 bell housing for a 2F. If no one in RS has one, you could try Ron at Rocky Mountain, Merl at Classic Cruisers or make a sweep of some of the yards. Try Joe Calleja at CTS. I don't know if Yota Yard has any of that stuff or not. You could post to IH8MUD and see if there are other Colorado guys who aren't on our board. I'd personally prefer the stock 3 or 4 speed t-case over the split case because then you could go with stock drive shafts & e-brake setup and there'll be less "rigging" of other stuff. Maybe you can trade for one.

I may have some of the motor mount stuff and you're welcome to it. We can look through what I have when you come pick up the bumper.

 

[timmbuck2]

Thanks Chris, I will try to stop by soon.

I posted an ad looking for an FJ40 4-speed bell housing.

There have been tons of conflicting opinions on the tcase. I am clueless. Will have to research further.

OK, I got the grinder out over the weekend and started using a wire wheel and braided wire wheel on the rust and paint in the engine bay. The braided wire wheel gave great clean, smooth results but took forever! I slapped on a flap disk, and the sparks flew! Much quicker, but it did leave a much rouger surface. I am planning on some rattle-can primer and flat black, should I be concerned with the rougher surface? I did grab a finer-grain flap disk. Should I POR the frame and axles, at least where I can reach? Thanks!

T

 

[Shark Bait]

There have been tons of conflicting opinions on the tcase. I am clueless. Will have to research further.

I'm just less of a fab guy than some. With the stock t-case & parking brake you can probably use stock drive shafts, which should be cheaper than having some made. I think I spent around $300 for a custom front shaft for the 40 I used to have. Maybe having a stock drive shaft shortened or lengthened a touch won't be quite as expensive. And then there's the brake issue. If you don't go stock, you'll have to buy a kit, or rig a cable, or maybe use a brake line lock. All do-able.

 

[MDH33]

Something you should consider doing while you're looking for a bellhousing is to strip all the smog stuff off the 60 engine. I might recommend looking for an earlier carb as well which will be easier to set up on the desmogged 2F. You can take the air rail off the engine and get plugs (14MM 1.5 pitch plug).


Since you need to separate the engine from the trans/tc, it would be a good time for a new clutch and rear main seal too.

 

[timmbuck2]

I heard that shortening the stock shafts would be pretty cheap....anyone vouch for that?

I'm just less of a fab guy than some. With the stock t-case & parking brake you can probably use stock drive shafts, which should be cheaper than having some made. I think I spent around $300 for a custom front shaft for the 40 I used to have. Maybe having a stock drive shaft shortened or lengthened a touch won't be quite as expensive. And then there's the brake issue. If you don't go stock, you'll have to buy a kit, or rig a cable, or maybe use a brake line lock. All do-able.

Martin, I think the 2f has already been desmogged, don't remember exactly what root said...need to wake him up and ask him.

T

 

[Boulder Cruiser]

Sorry for the hi jack but when you take the smog stuff off how do you pass emissions? How much power are you gaining from it?

 

[Shark Bait]

Sorry for the hi jack but when you take the smog stuff off how do you pass emissions? How much power are you gaining from it?

'75 and newer vehicles require emissions equipment. Prior to that, no emissions equipment is required. You'll have to get tested once to register the vehicle. The good news is if you apply for collector plates you don't have to test it again.

Not sure if there's any power gain, it's just a little less complicated.

You guys can send your carbs to Jim Chenowith at LC Performance (in Ohio?) to have them re-built and de-smoged. BTW, I have one out of an '82 FJ60 if either one of you needs one.

 

[MDH33]

Martin, I think the 2f has already been desmogged, don't remember exactly what root said...need to wake him up and ask him.

T

That would be ideal if true. Can you take a picture or two of the engine showing the carb too? maybe we can determine exactly what you have. There is also a code on the top of the carb that can help determine what year it is.

x2 on sending your carbs to Jim C. He is the best rebuilder. However, last i heard he was several months behind schedule... I just tackled rebuilding a pair of Aisans, an early single barrel and an early 2 barrel and it wasn't too difficult. Jim goes the extra mile and tunes them for specific needs.