simps80
Rising Sun Member
do you mean rolocs?
lol yes
not the wire hack taps that were all over the rear of this truck
thats why they call you ol' sharpshootin dead eye ingrid
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1969 FJ40 hot mess to minty fresh or..spring green fresh?
- Thread starter simps80
- Start date
lol yes
not the wire hack taps that were all over the rear of this truck
thats why they call you ol' sharpshootin dead eye ingrid
simps80
Rising Sun Member
thanks Matt.
6 pages
24 months and conservatively more than 2000 hours..
and it aint done yet.
good thing the labor rate is $0 per hour, pretty sure that is the only way we will stay in the black!
if i can figure out how to make the google drive album public, i will share the whole thing...i am skipping a lot cause the photo resizing deal...one advvantage of facebook...except its facebook, so advantages surrendered
6 pages
24 months and conservatively more than 2000 hours..
and it aint done yet.
good thing the labor rate is $0 per hour, pretty sure that is the only way we will stay in the black!
if i can figure out how to make the google drive album public, i will share the whole thing...i am skipping a lot cause the photo resizing deal...one advvantage of facebook...except its facebook, so advantages surrendered
simps80
Rising Sun Member
I was ok with this next part, it is fine..
dug out my testors model kit from about 1987 and painted the yellowed letters, painted the needles too...turned out ok. maybe new pewter on the trim will make a bigger impact.
took it apart enough to get the hazed glass out, which cleaned up good. first pic is the before...
painting that stuff reminds me why I stopped making model cars..its 1 thing when youre 10 and your hands dont shake, and you can see....
also this truck came without a rear heater, I wondered if the cap-offs were oem on the heater pipes where they would tee off to feed the rear heater. They are original, took me a but to find them...and still availabe from toyota. the right clamps arent 20250, but rather 20220 and are on order. I think these little details help.
you cant get emissions kit for 80s but rear heater blockoff plugs for a 69 40..sure, but I digress....
dug out my testors model kit from about 1987 and painted the yellowed letters, painted the needles too...turned out ok. maybe new pewter on the trim will make a bigger impact.
took it apart enough to get the hazed glass out, which cleaned up good. first pic is the before...
painting that stuff reminds me why I stopped making model cars..its 1 thing when youre 10 and your hands dont shake, and you can see....
also this truck came without a rear heater, I wondered if the cap-offs were oem on the heater pipes where they would tee off to feed the rear heater. They are original, took me a but to find them...and still availabe from toyota. the right clamps arent 20250, but rather 20220 and are on order. I think these little details help.
you cant get emissions kit for 80s but rear heater blockoff plugs for a 69 40..sure, but I digress....
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simps80
Rising Sun Member
the pewter paint from jt outfitters is a good match.
simps80
Rising Sun Member
the heater box was a mess, disassembled it, cleaned it up, put some rust converter on it, then gave it a few coats that matched pretty good. Ordered a new core, aftermarket part APDI/PRO 9010346 is a direct replacement core, and it was a perfect fit surprisingly.
used some new foam from the parts store plus some other self adhesive stuff to re-do the box
anyone know a source for the rubber duct that goes between the heater housing and hard plastic duct besides SOR? They want $63 plus the other fees for this chunk of rubber
used some new foam from the parts store plus some other self adhesive stuff to re-do the box
anyone know a source for the rubber duct that goes between the heater housing and hard plastic duct besides SOR? They want $63 plus the other fees for this chunk of rubber
simps80
Rising Sun Member
some other miscellaneous.
got a little carried away while the testors kit was out LOL
These amber ones are NLA, same dimensions and type as the red ones...just amber for the front fenders. they come with these pizza wedge rubbers to offsete the angle of the fender aprons where they mount, so the reflectors sit 'flush' from the side...if I didnt have a regular job, reproducing this crap would be on my list of things to do. those wedge shaped rubbers and orange reflectors
anyway, these were beat. they cleaned up pretty good. I found an interesting yet completely unnecessary use for all the gasket 'plugs' of rubber from making the things like the hinge gaskets...those rubber plugs with another hole cut in the middle of them make good insulators for nuts on studs like the back of these reflectors...
got a little carried away while the testors kit was out LOL
These amber ones are NLA, same dimensions and type as the red ones...just amber for the front fenders. they come with these pizza wedge rubbers to offsete the angle of the fender aprons where they mount, so the reflectors sit 'flush' from the side...if I didnt have a regular job, reproducing this crap would be on my list of things to do. those wedge shaped rubbers and orange reflectors
anyway, these were beat. they cleaned up pretty good. I found an interesting yet completely unnecessary use for all the gasket 'plugs' of rubber from making the things like the hinge gaskets...those rubber plugs with another hole cut in the middle of them make good insulators for nuts on studs like the back of these reflectors...
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simps80
Rising Sun Member
epic
pain
in
the
ash
oh, this reminds me. the hardware. I didn't get all this hardware cad plated. kinda wasn't the 'fit' for the end game...but in retrospect, it would have saved time.
basically all the hardware I was re-using like this wiper motor stuff and the bolts on the right I think are front seat mounting bracket bolts iirc... sat in salt and vinegar baths, for somewhere between 24 and 48 hrs depending on corrosion, then wire wheeled, then clear coated.
the wife loves the laundry room smelling like paint fumes and tubs of rusty vinegar!
paint wont cure in 30 degree garages, I kept explaining
pain
in
the
ash
oh, this reminds me. the hardware. I didn't get all this hardware cad plated. kinda wasn't the 'fit' for the end game...but in retrospect, it would have saved time.
basically all the hardware I was re-using like this wiper motor stuff and the bolts on the right I think are front seat mounting bracket bolts iirc... sat in salt and vinegar baths, for somewhere between 24 and 48 hrs depending on corrosion, then wire wheeled, then clear coated.
the wife loves the laundry room smelling like paint fumes and tubs of rusty vinegar!
paint wont cure in 30 degree garages, I kept explaining
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
Great pictures and great work! I found a nuclear-orange model paint at a high-end model store and used that on the speedo needles of my '65 FJ45 and it looked very factory.
This is way too sadly true: painting that stuff reminds me why I stopped making model cars..its 1 thing when youre 10 and your hands dont shake, and you can see....
This is way too sadly true: painting that stuff reminds me why I stopped making model cars..its 1 thing when youre 10 and your hands dont shake, and you can see....
rover67
Rising Sun Member
That's funny, same here, I was terrified when I was painting the needles on the 40.. trying not to get it everywhere because of my shaky hands..... blinking to focus...
kurtnkegger
Rising Sun Member
My wife had some crazy orange nail polish she got for a Broncos game...I used that to paint the needle on my sisters 40...Not exact...not real close to factory...but you could see the needle 10 times better than the faded-out original...
I love seeing what people did to solve the little stuff that pops up along the way.
I love seeing what people did to solve the little stuff that pops up along the way.
Lastresort576
Hard Core 4+
Love these threads. Makes me really wish I could pick up a 40 and get started on one myself.
treerootCO
Rising Sun Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2005
- Messages
- 5,424
Looking good Mike! You have put a lot of work into her and it shows. the truck looks good too 
Here is what I have for Toyota factory literature for 1968. I know she is a 1969 but all signs point to her being more '68 than '69.
Here is what I have for Toyota factory literature for 1968. I know she is a 1969 but all signs point to her being more '68 than '69.
treerootCO
Rising Sun Member
- Joined
- Aug 22, 2005
- Messages
- 5,424
1969
simps80
Rising Sun Member
I got the fenders aligned and mounted with the bezel and tub with overland metric stainless. so the front clip panel alignment is finally done. got ds step on and aligned. the vinegar baths work. the accelerator pedal had so much oxidation it looked like hell and the spring would stick. 24 hours in salt and vinegar, some wire wheeling and clear coat, and it looks pretty good and functions correctly. as previously stated it would be cool to strip and zinc recoat everything but the point of this build is to yield a good preservation that can be used and enjoyed, not a nut and bolt restoration so stripped, cleaned, and cleared hardware, stripped and painted parts is perfectly fine for this purpose. if I did it again, I'd send it all out to get refinished, because it would be a massive time saver and has that visual pop.
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simps80
Rising Sun Member
so..I had been waiting for 2 weeks for this next order of OEM parts to come in...fun order. New apron land cruiser emblems, new bib lights, new apron to tub "shims" and clips, new dome light, new reverse light, some new clamps to replace the last of the ugly non oem style..even the little cable that limits the glove box door from opening too far...anyway been waiting...then Ige shows up, and as if on queue..usps shows up with my box of goodies...so we bolted on the candy...
Then finished off the fuel system new fuel line tank to filter..then bolted the filler neck back in..will paint the filler neck..but kind of want to drive it soon to keep the motivation up....anyway, good day.
good to see you Ingrid!! Thanks for putting the pressure on the parts distribution chain to get this stuff here today...
late January, maybe January 24
Then finished off the fuel system new fuel line tank to filter..then bolted the filler neck back in..will paint the filler neck..but kind of want to drive it soon to keep the motivation up....anyway, good day.
good to see you Ingrid!! Thanks for putting the pressure on the parts distribution chain to get this stuff here today
...late January, maybe January 24
simps80
Rising Sun Member
the fuel filler neck cover was beat. some fiberglass tape, jb weld, and time with a file, etc, turned out good.
simps80
Rising Sun Member
my neighbor posing as if he can drive a 3 on the tree
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simps80
Rising Sun Member
coolerman sent me the repair parts I needed for various things. He does great work at amazing prices.. rear lights sections for both, wiper connectors had crumbled, new pins and connectors, harness for the dome light. good stuff
I soldered in the rear patch sections, but no pictures (imagine soldering here)
I soldered in the rear patch sections, but no pictures (imagine soldering here)
simps80
Rising Sun Member
I got the high and low horns refurbed, back in and working, the covers were cracked so I fixed that and painted otherwise I would have just cleaned them up and installed them as is. They should have put these on 80 series
unrelated, but thought I'd post here if someone ever needs these.
the parker store at 7030 E 46th Ave Dr, Denver, CO 80216 was able to re-use the fittings from the old plastic supply line that runs from tank to filter. the plastic line broke, and has 13mm x1.5 female ends which are not found anywhere. You can get the nut and ferrules for the hard lines from toyota still that go from filter to carb, but not these. and on 69 the fitting at the tank isn't removable its welded into the tank when its made. so the only option I could find when I broke that line was to get another one made with the original fittings....parker store rescued me on that.
unrelated, but thought I'd post here if someone ever needs these.
the parker store at 7030 E 46th Ave Dr, Denver, CO 80216 was able to re-use the fittings from the old plastic supply line that runs from tank to filter. the plastic line broke, and has 13mm x1.5 female ends which are not found anywhere. You can get the nut and ferrules for the hard lines from toyota still that go from filter to carb, but not these. and on 69 the fitting at the tank isn't removable its welded into the tank when its made. so the only option I could find when I broke that line was to get another one made with the original fittings....parker store rescued me on that.
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