I means that now everything in that area is going to rattle LOLWhat does the green box around the D mean? Never seen that before.
I means that now everything in that area is going to rattle LOLWhat does the green box around the D mean? Never seen that before.
I had a similar experience swapping out my whole rack. Seemed like the Timmy video was making it sound like the bolt that you have to reach over the rack for (I assume the LCs have that same one) was a massive pita. Really wasn't bad at all, biggest problem was that I couldn't get a breaker bar on it because of clearance with the transmission but with a little sweat I was able to break it loose with a shorter 1/2" ratchet even though it's supposed to be torqued to like 123. Thankfully my torque wrench also just barely fit so I was able to get it to spec.New steering rack bushings 🤘
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I'd been putting these off because of the horror stories I'd seen on mud. Two hours round trip on this job, taking my time and including cleanup.
If anyone is worried about doing them, definitely don't be. The white line kit is choice. Also a foot of all thread and some nuts and washers and it was a piece of cake.
I only all engines still had a way to adjust valves like the good ol push rod engines. The 5vz valve adjustment job looks like an absolute nightmare to do right.FJ60 valve adjustment..............goodtimes!View attachment 112802View attachment 112803View attachment 112804
Man this bushings had at least 200k more to go. 😂Pulled and pressed all new front diff bushings. Greased prop shafts. Test drive, Nice!
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Seriously what kind of rubber do they use on this trucks? Toyota must make the best rubber in the world it seems like. A lot of my rubber is original still I'm pretty sure and a lot of it is in amazing shape for 25 years and 277k miles. I know I keep hearing horror stories of people using moog bushings and they fail in like 20-30k. Seems like basically you either use OEM or poly to replace any bushings on these trucks.Man this bushings had at least 200k more to go. 😂
Yeah I've 3 times had an issue with mine. All 3 times in single digits after just starting the truck. I think I've narrowed it down to the check valve just freezing open or closed but might not know for sure again if it doesn't get that cold again this winter. Basically first pedal is hard as a rock, pump it a few times and it works fine. Someone suggest spraying some silicon spray into the check valve. If we get another cold spell I'll have to do thatReplaced the brake MC assembly on my '99 LX 470. Did not require dashboard disassembly (which was indicated by the FSM and Timmy the Toolman), and went quite smoothly, except for the $1325 price ($35 over dealer cost) + $108 in sales tax and $15 in brake fluid.
My old one failed without warning at 310,042 miles and from some testing I did, the motor would not spin or conduct electricity. I will tear down the old motor and see if the brushes are long gone, and/or try to determine what failed.
When it failed, I got the dash alarm horn, the brake and ABS lights, and about 15 brake applications until the pedal hit the floor. But, with 3x pumps and some leg pressure, the truck stopped well, so I just drove it home and parked it. You don't totally lose all brakes, but if you've never driven a car with a bad master cylinder that required pumping the brakes, it would be unnerving.
I'm not sure, I have generally been impressed at 200k with my lower control arm bushings for example.Seriously what kind of rubber do they use on this trucks? Toyota must make the best rubber in the world it seems like. A lot of my rubber is original still I'm pretty sure and a lot of it is in amazing shape for 25 years and 277k miles. I know I keep hearing horror stories of people using moog bushings and they fail in like 20-30k. Seems like basically you either use OEM or poly to replace any bushings on these trucks.
Yeah I will say the rack bushings that were in my old rack were pretty torn up and I think they were OEM even though I suspect the rack was a reman. Glad I put polys in there, should last the rest of the life of my truck. Same as you I'm surprised how good the LCA bushings are in mine (I suspect they were replaced on one side as I have very new looking cam bolts one side and frozen bolts on the other side). Still want to get the whitelines on my truck as soon as I get a chance to grab some new arms at a pick n pull to throw them in to. Will give me a chance to lube up the cam bolts to bushings sleeve interface and hopefully never have to deal with frozen cams again (I guess this is a big weakness in all IFS Toyotas from what I've seen).I'm not sure, I have generally been impressed at 200k with my lower control arm bushings for example.
The steering rack was replaced with OEM only 60k ago so I'm not impressed by those bushings at all unfortunately.
The diff bushings, looking through POs record he paid nearly 800 to the dealership to replace at 90k? One, they ripped him off. The front diff bushings and torque arm bushings were OEM and were serviceable but at EOL. The rear bushing may have been replaced, it looked great actually. But I've also heard that bushing gets the least amount of energy exerted and most people don't need to replace it.
I've had a lot of other rubber on this thing be in bad shape but still serviceable - Toyota uses some magic on the bushings for sure.
The 100s have the eccentrics on the UCAs which in my life experience makes them vastly less susceptible to seizing. Mine have always been extremely easy to work on. But my FJ at 60k had to have the LCA eccentrics cut out. LolYeah I will say the rack bushings that were in my old rack were pretty torn up and I think they were OEM even though I suspect the rack was a reman. Glad I put polys in there, should last the rest of the life of my truck. Same as you I'm surprised how good the LCA bushings are in mine (I suspect they were replaced on one side as I have very new looking cam bolts one side and frozen bolts on the other side). Still want to get the whitelines on my truck as soon as I get a chance to grab some new arms at a pick n pull to throw them in to. Will give me a chance to lube up the cam bolts to bushings sleeve interface and hopefully never have to deal with frozen cams again (I guess this is a big weakness in all IFS Toyotas from what I've seen).
Your experience is common among 3rd gen 4runner owners. Mine did it for all 10 years I owned it in low temps.Yeah I've 3 times had an issue with mine. All 3 times in single digits after just starting the truck. I think I've narrowed it down to the check valve just freezing open or closed but might not know for sure again if it doesn't get that cold again this winter. Basically first pedal is hard as a rock, pump it a few times and it works fine. Someone suggest spraying some silicon spray into the check valve. If we get another cold spell I'll have to do that
Yeah I wish 3rd gens had that >< would probably make it much easier to align for things like bigger tires and lifts without having to get something like the the SPC uppers.The 100s have the eccentrics on the UCAs which in my life experience makes them vastly less susceptible to seizing. Mine have always been extremely easy to work on. But my FJ at 60k had to have the LCA eccentrics cut out. Lol
2001LC on Mud seems to think that a lot of these failures are due to not pumping the brakes 25 times before topping up the brake fluid reservoir. Failure to do this causes people (often dealer techs) to overfill their reservoirs. The results in the fluid spilling out of the reservoir. He explained to me that the fluid is hygroscopic. This is a fancy term for absorbing moisture from the surrounding air. The moisture against the parts then leads to rust, contaminants and eventual failure of the motor.Today, I took apart the '99 LX 470 Brake Master Cylinder motor. Brushed are gone, commutator destroyed. This explains the 'no warning' loss of brake assist. Note the commutator 'plate' in the 2nd photo, sitting to the left (and turned 90 degrees) from where it should be.