LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
I Lemme know when to come pick it up
My wife would happily GIVE it to you right now!
OG2 (1967 FJ40 – Refurb’ Thread - Help Gladly Accepted)
- Thread starter LARGEONE
- Start date
My wife would happily GIVE it to you right now!
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Updated post #143 on original early jump seats.
lots going on with cruiser right now, but I’m so far down the rabbit hole that I can’t get my ass turned around long enough to update this thread! More to come.
lots going on with cruiser right now, but I’m so far down the rabbit hole that I can’t get my ass turned around long enough to update this thread! More to come.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Sweet! Exciting that you keep breathing more life into the machine. I’m excited you got it and are workin on it, fun to watch
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
The rabbit holes never end on these old trucks! Last time it was taillights not working that led to a complete rear sill replacement….this time, a leaky heater hose and radiator led to the following:
A previous owner had run the front heater hose through the firewall without using the rubber grommet. Eventually, the sharp firewall cut through the hose and it was leaking into the passenger floorboard. This was really the impetus that started the rabbit moving
- New Radiator
- New Toyota hoses & clamps
- New Thermostat
- New aftermarket temp gauge (until I can figure out how to get stock gauge working)
- In-cab heat control like later models
- Complete rebuild of front heater & defrost system to include core flush and clean
- Fixed Cowl vent (was leaking onto top of front heater)
- Fixed all broken cables and knobs (Choke, Throttle, Cowl Vent, Defrost…literally every original cable and knob was broken)
- Custom hand throttle on carb (mix of old and new)
- Removed stereo and fixed a lot of PO wiring nests
- Air cleaner improvement
A previous owner had run the front heater hose through the firewall without using the rubber grommet. Eventually, the sharp firewall cut through the hose and it was leaking into the passenger floorboard. This was really the impetus that started the rabbit moving
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Once I had the radiator drained and out, I started thinking about all of the other things that need to be fixed while the coolant is gone.
First thing...new hoses and clamps. Notice the firewall grommet that should have been installed as well.
I also removed the return pipe that runs along the side of the engine to clean it up a little, and I put a new Thermostat and gaskets in the freshly cleaned thermostat housing. The engine bay looks much better with the OEM hoses and clamps.
While the radiator was out, I took the opportunity to remove the radiator support bracket and the front grill and repaint all of it to look new again. The black grill screen had a lot of overspray on it from when the truck was painted tan. I also removed and painted the Toyota emblem.
First thing...new hoses and clamps. Notice the firewall grommet that should have been installed as well.
I also removed the return pipe that runs along the side of the engine to clean it up a little, and I put a new Thermostat and gaskets in the freshly cleaned thermostat housing. The engine bay looks much better with the OEM hoses and clamps.
While the radiator was out, I took the opportunity to remove the radiator support bracket and the front grill and repaint all of it to look new again. The black grill screen had a lot of overspray on it from when the truck was painted tan. I also removed and painted the Toyota emblem.
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
The 1974 F engine does not have the heater petcock on the left rear of the engine like the earlier models had, so I had to figure out how I was going to turn the heat on and off for winter/summer. My first attempt was to source a petcock from NAPA that looked like it had promise. It was an exact replica of the early model shutoff heater petcock. However, the threads were different from the elbow that is currently on the later model engine, so I either had to source an adaptor, or I had to come up with another idea. A while back, I saw that @coolerman rebuild thread, his FJ40 came to him with a heater shutoff valve from an old Bronco. I sourced one of these valves with the original plan of installing it right where the ugly 90 deg shutoff valve was above the engine. Trying to keep it a little more stock looking, I fabbed up this bracket welding it onto the valve, and I found a spot for it right behind the 4X4 actuator pivot.
It tucks in there very nicely and functions just like the later model heater valves. I installed the pull for the valve right next to the pull for the front heater, where the rear heater knob should have been if it had a rear heater. Unfortunately I had to use non-oem clamps on this valve because the diameter is slightly smaller than the Toyota fittings. I didn't want to have leaks and my OEM clamps started losing their shape trying to clamp down that tight. Oh well....still looks decent with it hidden a bit.
I also cleaned out the elbow drain valve and polished it up a bit.
It tucks in there very nicely and functions just like the later model heater valves. I installed the pull for the valve right next to the pull for the front heater, where the rear heater knob should have been if it had a rear heater. Unfortunately I had to use non-oem clamps on this valve because the diameter is slightly smaller than the Toyota fittings. I didn't want to have leaks and my OEM clamps started losing their shape trying to clamp down that tight. Oh well....still looks decent with it hidden a bit.
I also cleaned out the elbow drain valve and polished it up a bit.
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Then came the front heater. Ever since I got OG2 from Dan, there was no way to switch between Defrost and Heat. The knob on the front of the heater was frozen in one position and wouldn't budge. The entire heater was quite corroded, which I later learned was from a major cowl vent issue (see post below for cowl fixes).
I originally thought the heater/defrost knob was stuck just because the knob shaft was so bent up. The knob itself was in very poor condition as well. But, when I opened the heater up, there were more issues than I wanted to learn. The core was FILTHY, and the core brackets that hold it in place had broken off. I took the core to A-1 Radiator Service on Federal and Scott did a great job cleaning the core and brazing the brackets back on. Check out all the crap sitting on the core!
The foam was in bad shape so I had to source all new foam. They sell a rebuild kit, but the want like $55 for it, and I had most of the stuff needed so I just made my own.
The defrost diverter was COMPLETELY rusted closed. A few soaks with AeroKroil got it functioning again.
Check out how bent and broken this defrost knob was!
I guess with defrost elbows like this, you kind of get both Heat and Defrost at the same time!!!
I originally thought the heater/defrost knob was stuck just because the knob shaft was so bent up. The knob itself was in very poor condition as well. But, when I opened the heater up, there were more issues than I wanted to learn. The core was FILTHY, and the core brackets that hold it in place had broken off. I took the core to A-1 Radiator Service on Federal and Scott did a great job cleaning the core and brazing the brackets back on. Check out all the crap sitting on the core!
The foam was in bad shape so I had to source all new foam. They sell a rebuild kit, but the want like $55 for it, and I had most of the stuff needed so I just made my own.
The defrost diverter was COMPLETELY rusted closed. A few soaks with AeroKroil got it functioning again.
Check out how bent and broken this defrost knob was!
I guess with defrost elbows like this, you kind of get both Heat and Defrost at the same time
!!!
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
I borrowed a sand blaster from OilHammer to try to get more of the rust off of the heater and defrost diverter.
The blaster was not working very well until I made this little device that helps it get more air and grab the sand particles. THANK YOU YOUTUBE.
This knob and shaft that controls the defrost cannot be sourced...at least I could not find anything anywhere.
So I used a little trick they use on old steering wheels...I cleaned out the cracks, drilled holes to help hold, and I filled all of the voids with epoxy putty.
Then I sanded the knob back to its original shape, sprayed it with adhesion promoter, and finally painted it using black bumper(plastic) paint.
In order to get the heater apart, I had to ruin several of the machine cap screws that hold it together...they were rusted threads. However, I was surprised to find out that these machine screws are the old JIS standard (prior to April 1997) and had an odd thread pitch no longer sold today. Well...except for these guys... BelMetric.com What a great company, and I had great customer service...parts arrived in just a couple of days. They also sell the metric sizes of fuel line and clamps, so I ordered some of that for my fuel system as well. Gonna buy some for the 80 series as well bc it's hard to find the metric size fuel line at the local parts stores.
Anyway....I am just waiting on the front sticker for the heater, and I'll post some more pictures when the heater is done. It's going to look a little weird in the old truck, since it looks too new. But, I certainly didn't feel like putting everything back together all rusty. This thing was such a pain in the arse to rebuild that I didn't want to do it twice!
The blaster was not working very well until I made this little device that helps it get more air and grab the sand particles. THANK YOU YOUTUBE.
This knob and shaft that controls the defrost cannot be sourced...at least I could not find anything anywhere.
So I used a little trick they use on old steering wheels...I cleaned out the cracks, drilled holes to help hold, and I filled all of the voids with epoxy putty.
Then I sanded the knob back to its original shape, sprayed it with adhesion promoter, and finally painted it using black bumper(plastic) paint.
In order to get the heater apart, I had to ruin several of the machine cap screws that hold it together...they were rusted threads. However, I was surprised to find out that these machine screws are the old JIS standard (prior to April 1997) and had an odd thread pitch no longer sold today. Well...except for these guys... BelMetric.com What a great company, and I had great customer service...parts arrived in just a couple of days. They also sell the metric sizes of fuel line and clamps, so I ordered some of that for my fuel system as well. Gonna buy some for the 80 series as well bc it's hard to find the metric size fuel line at the local parts stores.
Anyway....I am just waiting on the front sticker for the heater, and I'll post some more pictures when the heater is done. It's going to look a little weird in the old truck, since it looks too new. But, I certainly didn't feel like putting everything back together all rusty. This thing was such a pain in the arse to rebuild that I didn't want to do it twice!
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
I believe every single original cable and knob were broken...to include Choke, Throttle, Cowl Vent, Defrost, etc. There were even extra cables on the dash that were aftermarket that were broken! As I stated up front, my initial goal is to try to get everything working the way it did in 1967, without breaking the bank. Some things may never get there.
There are guys selling early 40 cables for $75-$150 online...even on MUD. But I still had the original knobs/pulls; they were just broken.
So, I purchased cheap ($7) choke cables that were like 6 feet long, and I used those for repair parts. I used a dremmel tool cut the old cable out of the pull, and then I welded the new cable from the cheep-o into the original pull shaft and ground down so it would fit in the sleeve.
Then, I drilled out the old cable housing, and I soldered in the new housing.
Finally, I painted the letters and assembled for basically a NEW factory cable.
While I was cleaning and painting knobs, I also took care of the lights, wiper and front drive knobs as well.
There are guys selling early 40 cables for $75-$150 online...even on MUD. But I still had the original knobs/pulls; they were just broken.
So, I purchased cheap ($7) choke cables that were like 6 feet long, and I used those for repair parts. I used a dremmel tool cut the old cable out of the pull, and then I welded the new cable from the cheep-o into the original pull shaft and ground down so it would fit in the sleeve.
Then, I drilled out the old cable housing, and I soldered in the new housing.
Finally, I painted the letters and assembled for basically a NEW factory cable.
While I was cleaning and painting knobs, I also took care of the lights, wiper and front drive knobs as well.
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
The early model cowl vents actually used a cable pull to actuate the cowl vent. It was a poor design, and they went away from it in 1968 to what you see below where the pull shaft attaches to a separate point on the actuator shaft. In my early year, the cable pulled from the other side of the spring in the middle. But when the linkage started to not operate as easily, this cable broke quickly. My linkage was completely frozen.
This knob and cable were completely missing on my 40. If anyone comes across either type of these knob/shafts, let me know, as I would eventually like to at least have the correct knob. The guy on MUD has some, but they are like $75.
From the next two pictures, you can probably see what caused the linkage to get corroded...as well as the front heater to get all rusty. These cowl vents are notorious for this, and many people either weld them shut, or get a really popular aftermarket cover plate.
Cowl drains don’t work very well with this stuffed in them 😀
Well...I'm stubborn. And I want a functioning cowl vent!!!
So, I cleaned mine up, and I made an actuating shaft that mimics the later style attachment. I still haven't decided whether I want to fork out the $50 or $60 for the CityRacer cowl seal? I might make my own until the ultimate build comes...if it ever does I did, however, purchase CityRacer’s cowl vent drain tubes. The one on the drivers side was a total PIA to get attached.
After the cowl was functioning, and after watching how nice the throttle worked on Dean's 1968 FJ40, I decided I wanted a functioning Throttle cable again. The problem is, the 1967 had the throttle cable attachment on the 1 bbl carb, but the attachment for the 71 carb moved to the gas pedal like later years. So, I decided to fab up my own cable attachment for the 1971 2bbl carb.
I had this little cable attachment laying around, and I attached it to a little S-hook so it can pull from the same spring attachment point for the accelerator cable. Now, it works like the 1967 would have.
I am not trying to make a museum truck here....If you want to see a museum truck, go look at Barry's '66 FJ45. That thing belongs in a museum, and I hope it finds its way there some day. But, I want a 1967 FJ40 that functions like a 1967 FJ40...and I think this cable pull on the later model carb stays in this same spirit. I think the 1.5F is an upgrade, just like someone putting later model disc brakes on their 40. And I have to make a few mods to keep it looking "stock" and also driveable.
This knob and cable were completely missing on my 40. If anyone comes across either type of these knob/shafts, let me know, as I would eventually like to at least have the correct knob. The guy on MUD has some, but they are like $75.
From the next two pictures, you can probably see what caused the linkage to get corroded...as well as the front heater to get all rusty. These cowl vents are notorious for this, and many people either weld them shut, or get a really popular aftermarket cover plate.
Cowl drains don’t work very well with this stuffed in them 😀
Well...I'm stubborn. And I want a functioning cowl vent!!!
So, I cleaned mine up, and I made an actuating shaft that mimics the later style attachment. I still haven't decided whether I want to fork out the $50 or $60 for the CityRacer cowl seal? I might make my own until the ultimate build comes...if it ever does
I did, however, purchase CityRacer’s cowl vent drain tubes. The one on the drivers side was a total PIA to get attached.After the cowl was functioning, and after watching how nice the throttle worked on Dean's 1968 FJ40, I decided I wanted a functioning Throttle cable again. The problem is, the 1967 had the throttle cable attachment on the 1 bbl carb, but the attachment for the 71 carb moved to the gas pedal like later years. So, I decided to fab up my own cable attachment for the 1971 2bbl carb.
I had this little cable attachment laying around, and I attached it to a little S-hook so it can pull from the same spring attachment point for the accelerator cable. Now, it works like the 1967 would have.
I am not trying to make a museum truck here....If you want to see a museum truck, go look at Barry's '66 FJ45. That thing belongs in a museum, and I hope it finds its way there some day. But, I want a 1967 FJ40 that functions like a 1967 FJ40...and I think this cable pull on the later model carb stays in this same spirit. I think the 1.5F is an upgrade, just like someone putting later model disc brakes on their 40. And I have to make a few mods to keep it looking "stock" and also driveable.
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
The OG2 did not come with a radiator support. The radiator stays pretty stable, but its probably hard on the radiator support bracket bolts on the bottom. Until I find an actual one, I welded this one up quick. Just need to paint it when I paint the air intake I got from Dean.
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LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Speaking of Air Intakes....
You may have seen my other post looking for a more "period correct" air intake housing? The housing below is from another year and maybe even an FJ60 or FJ55??? The housing was ruining my non-working horns and just looked really wrong, especially after everything else under the hood was starting to look soooo right!
Luckily Dean answered my post and was so nice to offer up this intake from a '68, which I believe is the same as the '67 (or at least close enough). It must have been sitting close to a bed-lining operation/project, so it took some sanding/blasting to get it ready to paint.
It also had one of the studs broken off which I quickly remedied by drilling it out and welding a new stud in its place. Now it is ready for a warm day of painting (whenever that comes along)!
You may have seen my other post looking for a more "period correct" air intake housing? The housing below is from another year and maybe even an FJ60 or FJ55??? The housing was ruining my non-working horns and just looked really wrong, especially after everything else under the hood was starting to look soooo right!
Luckily Dean answered my post and was so nice to offer up this intake from a '68, which I believe is the same as the '67 (or at least close enough). It must have been sitting close to a bed-lining operation/project, so it took some sanding/blasting to get it ready to paint.
It also had one of the studs broken off which I quickly remedied by drilling it out and welding a new stud in its place. Now it is ready for a warm day of painting (whenever that comes along)!
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In cab heater controls? Huh! What'll they think of next! 
You are killing it on the 40 Paul. Very nice work!
You are killing it on the 40 Paul. Very nice work!
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
A picture after removing the stereo...makes me soooo sad.
Ihave something temporary in the works to cover this, but it pains me to see this, as this feature in the old cruisers is really the defining character of the early 40s. I will one day bring this back to original, but I have to find a junkyard dash that still has this part in tact but maybe something else on the cowl damaged to where no one wants It.
I will likely start another thread on this sadness. 😞
Ihave something temporary in the works to cover this, but it pains me to see this, as this feature in the old cruisers is really the defining character of the early 40s. I will one day bring this back to original, but I have to find a junkyard dash that still has this part in tact but maybe something else on the cowl damaged to where no one wants It.
I will likely start another thread on this sadness. 😞
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Thanks, Dan!In cab heater controls? Huh! What'll they think of next!
You are killing it on the 40 Paul. Very nice work!
I am turning the aftermarket choke location (where additional choke cable was added, and where the rear heater knob would have been, if it had had a rear heater) into the location for the heater valve. I bought an aftermarket petcock for the engine block, but couldn’t make the fitting match without leaking....so had to go this route.
simps80
Rising Sun Member
Nice work on all that!! Very inspiring
I am right in the middle of basically all that same stuff
I think I need to copy that throttle cable fix
I have no where to hook up the hand throttle
I am right in the middle of basically all that same stuff
I think I need to copy that throttle cable fix
I have no where to hook up the hand throttle
LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Mike...I think you have the same carburetor as mine does (1971)...or really close. Your year should have the throttle attachment on the gas pedal, I think. The 1967 had the throttle cable pulling from the top of the single bbl carb kind of like what I did on this mod...it just pulled a little more vertically. If you don't have a throttle attachment on your gas pedal, you could put one there, or I could make you a little bracket for your carb like I did on mine.
SteveH
Hard Core 4+
Your getting the full business on old FJ40 rehab. Good work! Looks like a world-class that no one will appreciate more than you!
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Whoa nice work Paul and that knob, I dig what you did there that’s awesome! And the heater looks great! And the cables look like they worked out really nice! It’s all awesome!
jealous I wish I had that project
jealous I wish I had that project