What brand(s) of recovery gear?

[nuclearlemon]

after seeing multiple people with smaller lighter rigs post up broken treds and knowing maxtrax will handle my fata^% 80, i'm sold on maxtrax and won't ever go treds.

for kinetic, i went to steve at southeast overland. he also made my soft shackle. i've been very pleased with both. shackles, i won't use anything that doesn't have a weight rating or if i know it's made in one of the countries producing cheap knockoff stuff (some stuff i don't know about, hard to prove origin for a lot of parts...for all i know my arb straps and shackles are chinese).

strap is arb, i have some arb and some warn shackles. snatch blocks, pretty sure one is arb and one is warn...i'll have to check.

either way, brand name or us makes a huge difference and overkill is king...you may be able to skate by using a 10k rated part, but will a rig you're helping out be able to?

 

[DaveInDenver]

 

[bassguyry]

As a general rule, I have a tough time taking Australians seriously. Especially when they suggest "retying the knot" and reusing the busted soft shackle.

 

[MDH33]

I am more concerned about the Toyota frame coming apart in a pull than the recovery gear.
joke, kinda

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Tread Pro’s or Maxtrax, either are good products, but would be Lower on my list of recovery gear.

The Hi-lift winch kit is a great piece if you’re not running a winch.

I built most of my winch extensions (static rope) from Amsteel Blue. Go2marine has good prices. You’ll learn how to splice/lock stitch as well by doing this. If you plan on owning a winch I’d rock at least 7/16 for your extension (8000lb winch) 1/2” min is you’re rocking a bigger winch. and get a min of 50ft. If your dead set on the hi-lift as your winch grab a hank of 5/16.

As for shackles. I recommend anything mentioned above by Dave. ARB makes good equipment and their shackles are good I’m sure, but for a little more you can get the best money can buy. I run CM super strength shackles personally and some Bubba soft shackles.

Quality kinetic ropes are generally superior to an equally rated strap. You should measure your strap/rope and check for hysteresis every now and again. I got about 10 good pulls out of my last ARB strap before it hit 12% permanent elongation. Eventually it will become a static strap. ARB did warranty it for me. I’ve yet to see any measurable hysteresis in my bubba Rope. Equivalent Ropes (in general) will stretch more than a strap with an equivalent load. Absolutely nothing wrong with your strap, just keep an eye on it.

Watch Bill Burke’s video on the daisy chan method to shorten a hi-lift extension (your static rope). That way you’ll only need to carry one length of 3/8 G70 chain (heavy as balls) for your hi-lift winch kit. Splurge and buy a hi-lift brand Hi-lift. It’s well proven and superior quality to most of the Chinese junk we’ve seen.

ARB tree savers are great quality. I’d stick with buying one from them. If you take care of it, it’ll last you a long long time.

Don’t let any of that gear hinder you from going out and having a good time. Careful driving and using your head will get you a long ways.

Good stuff indeed! This is definitely the type of insight I was looking for!

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

after seeing multiple people with smaller lighter rigs post up broken treds and knowing maxtrax will handle my fata^% 80, i'm sold on maxtrax and won't ever go treds.

for kinetic, i went to steve at southeast overland. he also made my soft shackle. i've been very pleased with both. shackles, i won't use anything that doesn't have a weight rating or if i know it's made in one of the countries producing cheap knockoff stuff (some stuff i don't know about, hard to prove origin for a lot of parts...for all i know my arb straps and shackles are chinese).

strap is arb, i have some arb and some warn shackles. snatch blocks, pretty sure one is arb and one is warn...i'll have to check.

either way, brand name or us makes a huge difference and overkill is king...you may be able to skate by using a 10k rated part, but will a rig you're helping out be able to?

If the MaxTrax's survived Fat Bastard crawling over them they're GTG in my book!

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

I've got at least 100' of mooring line that I've been carrying around with me for at least 15 years but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't trust it anymore. It has been in my garage and away from the elements but I think the fibers have to be deteriorated by now, right?

And when I say mooring line, I'm not talking about something used to hold your dingy to the dock.

 

[jps8460]

I've got at least 100' of mooring line that I've been carrying around with me for at least 15 years but I'm pretty sure I wouldn't trust it anymore. It has been in my garage and away from the elements but I think the fibers have to be deteriorated by now, right?

And when I say mooring line, I'm not talking about something used to hold your dingy to the dock.

That’s a dangerous game. Lots of variables there to work against you. I’d save it for decoration lol.

Also it should be noted that there is a very substantial difference in quality and durability between standard treads and the tread pro’s

 

[DaveInDenver]

That’s a dangerous game.

What, me worry? I'd chuck it, probably deteriorated to 1/3rd of it's original strength and so is only good for 50,000 lbs. @Stuckinthe80s, you should wind a single layer of it on your winch before Cruise Moab. Fat bastard indeed.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Also it should be noted that there is a very substantial difference in quality and durability between standard treads and the tread pro’s

tred pros failed under this guys 4runner. i know maxtrax have broken too, but i know a higher ratio of tred owners who've had failures than i do maxtrax owners that have had failures.

 

[On the RX]

Do you know anyone in construction? My old man bought two (new) straps from his company when they bought new rigging for their cranes. They are 4 or 5 ft. One I have used a lot and probably need to retire. The other just came out of the plastic. I have used them for straight pulls (double hook to bumper to single line), moving trees and other obstacles blocking the trail and tree savers. Super satisfied and they were much cheaper than buying from a store. Probably got them for wholesale price. I can't remember what they are rated weight wise but is on the tag and shows weight rating for different types of pulls, straight, U, choker, ect...

 

[DaveInDenver]

Do you know anyone in construction? My old man bought two (new) straps from his company when they bought new rigging for their cranes. They are 4 or 5 ft. One I have used a lot and probably need to retire. The other just came out of the plastic. I have used them for straight pulls (double hook to bumper to single line), moving trees and other obstacles blocking the trail and tree savers. Super satisfied and they were much cheaper than buying from a store. Probably got them for wholesale price. I can't remember what they are rated weight wise but is on the tag and shows weight rating for different types of pulls, straight, U, choker, ect...

Just to make sure it's not confused, these are very probably static straps. Never use them for a dynamic recovery where you should be using a snatch strap. Static nylon straps are fine to use and they'd be applied in the same way you might chain or wire rope. Winch extensions, towing, stabilizing a vehicle.

The word recovery is broadly defined. A snatch is the type of recovery where you leave the strap slack and the recovering vehicle accelerates to impart energy into the stuck vehicle. The reason you use a dynamic strap for this is that it stretches and jerks the stuck vehicle without a severe shock. It'll actually put more energy into the system without as much risk for breaking anything.

Point is not all yellow colored nylon straps are the same thing and there's a reason ARB, Bubba Ropes and similar recovery straps cost more than cargo and tow straps.

 

[nuclearlemon]

Do you know anyone in construction? My old man bought two (new) straps from his company when they bought new rigging for their cranes. ..

if anyone does need one of these extreme static straps, i'd like to get rid of this one.

 

[jps8460]

tred pros failed under this guys 4runner. i know maxtrax have broken too, but i know a higher ratio of tred owners who've had failures than i do maxtrax owners that have had failures.

Just to be clear, I’m a bigger fan of maxtrax than treads. Just wanted to add that there is a big difference and that not all treads are the same. By the way your friend should call them up a warranty them, they have a great warranty.

 

[Corbet]

I’m a happy Maxtrax user. Daniel really influenced my decision to get a pair many years ago. @Inukshuk

I’ve worked both my hi-lift and my Wyeth-Scott power puller as a winch, neither are ideal but the power puller is a clear winner as you simply don’t have to rig it as often. If your going to rig with a hi-lift you’ll probably want some chain.

All my straps are ARB. No particular reason. Won one at a CM raffle. Bought the matching tree saver and winch extension line during a sale. I honestly dont care for the winch extension strap. Simply too big and bulky. Would much rather have a synthetic winch rope style extension.

Have not tried the soft shackles yet, have a pile of steel ones. I have one that is huge and handy for complex rigging as it will hold multiple straps easily. Forget the size but the main pin is 1” or larger.

Love my Fiskars axe. Carry a simple but quality True Temper short handle spade shovel.

I have a small folding saw I keep in the truck more for firewood than trail clearing. I’ve recently added a battery chainsaw to the trail gear as it’s well awesome.

 

[On the RX]

Just to make sure it's not confused, these are very probably static straps. Never use them for a dynamic recovery where you should be using a snatch strap. Static nylon straps are fine to use and they'd be applied in the same way you might chain or wire rope. Winch extensions, towing, stabilizing a vehicle.

The word recovery is broadly defined. A snatch is the type of recovery where you leave the strap slack and the recovering vehicle accelerates to impart energy into the stuck vehicle. The reason you use a dynamic strap for this is that it stretches and jerks the stuck vehicle without a severe shock. It'll actually put more energy into the system without as much risk for breaking anything.

Point is not all yellow colored nylon straps are the same thing and there's a reason ARB, Bubba Ropes and similar recovery straps cost more than cargo and tow straps.

They are static straps and offer 0 stretch. You would not want to have any slack in them for an extraction. A dynamic rope is high on the list of needed equipment, in fact it is a toss up for first with a snatch block. Not sure which will be added to my quiver next.

 

[Corbet]

My neighbor has had great luck with his XBull traction boards. See post #117 for the latest. https://expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/maxtrax-are-they-worth-it.188526/page-8

 

[DaveInDenver]

A couple of things I wanted to mention, since it was something Bill Burke talked about.

He said (as has been here) about using known brands. He mentioned is when you look at rigging that is certified to a specification and traceable (for example used for use overhead, mining or shipboard, amongst other places) you'll see serial numbers. I wanted to show you want that looks like on Crosby bow shackles, it's located on the pin.

We also talked at some length about receiver hitches and draw bar pins. This is how I attach my shackle adapter in my hitch. It's a grade 8 bolt that's about 4" or 4-1/2" long. It's shouldered so the threads only extend to about where the lock washer is on the double nutted side. The point is to have the adapter and both sides of the receiver only touching unthreaded rod stock.

 

[jps8460]

A couple of things I wanted to mention, since it was something Bill Burke talked about.

He said (as has been here) about using known brands. He mentioned is when you look at rigging that is certified to a specification and traceable (for example used for use overhead, mining or shipboard, amongst other places) you'll see serial numbers. I wanted to show you want that looks like on Crosby bow shackles, it's located on the pin.

We also talked at some length about receiver hitches and draw bar pins. This is how I attach my shackle adapter in my hitch. It's a grade 8 bolt that's about 4" or 4-1/2" long. It's shouldered so the threads only extend to about where the lock washer is on the double nutted side. The point is to have the adapter and both sides of the receiver only touching unthreaded rod stock.

I believe that is actually a heat/lot number on your nice Crosby shackle. Depending on model and industry, the pin will actually to have an individual serial number. Traceability is key for the overhead industry. Thanks for sharing Dave.

 

[wesintl]

that must have been before they started RF id's.

For straps tree savers easiest to get ARB. I've always has CM shackles
I don't bother with hand winch. even regular winch unless out by yourself a vehicle strap is far easier. I also prefer not to get that stuck anymore so i don't spend a day or more getting unstuck.
I don't have any traction mats. never needed them(yet)
shovel, hardly use - carry a Mil issue foldable.
never carried an axe
saw - i like bow saws like Bahco or fiskers etc. Like corbet i'll probably replace with stihl.