Tundra mods

Johnny Utah

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Yes, winter fuel has been getting me pretty bad mpgs.
I noticed that on the way to Baja in December we were getting 12ish mpgs until we hit Arizona. Then we started getting 15ish.
 

nakman

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So that serpentine belt/idler pulley swap job was so fun I got to do part of it again. Turns out that Dayco idler pulley from Amazon wasn't so good after all... at 1200 rpm it would create this really interesting whining sound, almost like a baby dear calling for its mama. Coincidentally 1200rpm is also my idle when the truck is cold, so for a while I'm thinking maybe the PS is going out or I need to swap some ATF juice as the sound goes away when it warms up... but really the idle would just go down, and the sound would come back when I'm creeping up the hill back to the house... then I got really good at replicating it holding the RPM's exactly at 1200.

So I bought a new pulley from Toyota. 16603-38012. removed the Dayco 89502 pulley and everything sounds normal again. What stinks though is in an effort to reduce clutter I figured why would I keep an old pulley around, so I threw my OEM one away after it was swapped.... I'm sure it was still good.

some pics of the pulleys, for comparison. that's the Toyota one on the left...
IMG_0301.jpg

Toyota..
IMG_0302.jpg

Dayco
IMG_0304.jpg


looks like the the Toyota one has bearings with a bigger ID, then a thicker "axle" running through it. Compared to the smaller bearing ID and thinner axle of the Dayco. You wouldn't think that would make a difference... but listen to it:

View: https://youtu.be/FFafNioPXjg

 

DaveInDenver

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looks like the the Toyota one has bearings with a bigger ID, then a thicker "axle" running through it. Compared to the smaller bearing ID and thinner axle of the Dayco. You wouldn't think that would make a difference...
Isn't Dayco the (or at least one of the) OEM for Tundra and Tacoma?

I'd have thought less design and more quality would be the issue. An undersized bearing should be initially quiet, it just won't last very long. Gotta be real careful about sources for bearings as counterfeits are a huge problem and Amazon and eBay are where you find a lot of them. That orange seal is one indication of a legitimate Koyo, for example. Not definitive of course alone.

You ought to pop off the dust cover on the bad one. Bet you find it's got crap or maybe even no grease in it.
 

IoN6

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So that serpentine belt/idler pulley swap job was so fun I got to do part of it again. Turns out that Dayco idler pulley from Amazon wasn't so good after all... at 1200 rpm it would create this really interesting whining sound, almost like a baby dear calling for its mama.

Wonder if that is my issue with the 80... Totally sounds like PS whine, but it is full.
 

AlpineAccess

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So weird! I'm ordering one as well to replace the Dayco I have which was noted on the Tundra forum as the OEM. The Tundras.com forums were incorrect again!
 

nakman

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So weird! I'm ordering one as well to replace the Dayco I have which was noted on the Tundra forum as the OEM. The Tundras.com forums were incorrect again!
is yours whining?
 

nakman

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Wonder if that is my issue with the 80... Totally sounds like PS whine, but it is full.
Your 80 is way different, as you've got a timing chain not this big serpentine belt. Unless it's new, I would suggest sucking what you can out of the PS reservoir, then filling it up with new ATF... start it up & cycle the fluid a couple times, then repeat. This always results in less whining sound at start up, on pretty much every Toyota/Lexus I've ever maintained.
 

rover67

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Mechanics stethoscope’s are super handy for diagnosing those kinds of noises
 

nakman

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Mechanics stethoscope’s are super handy for diagnosing those kinds of noises
funny as a few weeks ago I decided to swing by @jps8460 's place for a second opinion, and that's what he whipped out. I already had a hunch I new where the problem was, but that was the clincher.
 
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nakman

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Been a little bit since our last update. I got a cheap topper, painted it, fixed a broken window, added roof rails. Then made a rack for the topper. Then bolted a ton of stuff to the truck and took the family to Utah. Really liking this truck.

IMG_0385.jpg

IMG_0540.jpg
 

nakman

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I seem to hit the bump stops a lot in back, like going 80 on I-70 all loaded up and then hit some of those funky pavement undulations.... am considering a lift- I'm an Iron Man dealer so am tempted to get one of theirs, as it's a fairly low price point. I also bounce around a lot on hwy287 on all of those joints between the concrete sections... and have seen other Tundras next to me doing the same. so I am wondering if the stock setup just isn't up for that.

Anyone else drive between Lafayette and Longmont and notice the same thing? The worst section is between 470 and south boulder road.
 

Johnny Utah

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I’ve had one 1/2 ton truck and several 3/4 ton trucks over the years. The wheelbase is one of the contributing factors in the highway bounce. The spacing of the concrete doesn’t agree with the length of most pickup trucks.
 

Telly

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I've been fighting a road bounce in my Tundra for months. From Castle Rock to Denver, the concrete paving joints have significant curling going on. My double cab wheel base must be perfectly aligned with these joints and the bed just hops up and down. It got slightly worse when I installed stiffer Bilstein 5100's f/r shocks. Read good reviews on Coachbuilders rear shackles to help reduce bounce. Bought a set and it did help some (excellent quality BTW). Still was annoying so a couple weeks ago I yanked the 5100 rear shocks and installed some softer cheap KYB's. Didn't really help that much so I'm going to reinstall the 5100's this weekend.

I also installed a topper recently and thought the extra weight would help...it didn't. I feel sorta defeated not being able to eliminate the issue but that stretch of road is only about 15 minutes of my commute. I just live with it now and try not to talk on the phone or drink coffee during that time.
 

DaveInDenver

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If it makes anyone feel better this oscillation over certain roads happened with the 1991 and does on the 2008. Weight does help but it's not just cargo but several things I've found.

On the Hilux spring rate and shocks helped and there was a marked difference with WilderNest on vs off.

When I say tuning it's a matter of getting the shocks matched to the springs, in my case it was using the right model OME shock with my heavy packs. Prior to 2008 I had a set of packs that were based on Northwest Offroad with extra leafs. Matched with OME shocks it would bounce. At Rubicon I sheared some of the leafs and used that as an opportunity to get a new set of OME. The ride height didn't change but the ride did. It rode stiff but fairly controlled with the 'Nest off still. When I dropped the ride height I took a leaf out to make them mediums and the ride got worse again.

On the Tacoma I've never quite nailed the ride but stock, stock plus add-a-leaf, OME mediums and now OME mediums with 2 extra add-a-leafs hasn't ever really been perfect but it's not bad now with OME shocks.

So what it boils down to is if you can, use a known, matched setup. Beyond something like OME that has some design intention it's kind of a guess. I had FOX rear shocks that were supposedly tuned to OME but I think I was still oversprung for them. When the OME shocks wear out I'll probably go back to FOX or something to see if I can dial it in but I'm in no hurry at the moment. External adjustments are a real benefit here.

What I *do* notice is my Tacoma has a lot of bounce in the frame. You can tell this when you put your hand between the cab and bed. On the 1991 there was almost no movement on the highway but in the Tacoma it'll squeeze your hand uncomfortably. This is true of Tundras, too. Toyota made them more flexy for soft American butts.

So it's a bit of a crap-shoot trying to tune your suspension by seat of the pants. You'll have a good controlled ride but it'll still feel bouncy and there's really nothing you can do about it. The only ways to really fix it is frame reinforcement. Sliders that are themselves stiff and mount solidly is the simplest way and that has tamed my truck reasonably well.
 
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