Soft Shackle Receiver Adapter

Hulk

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Anyone ever use one of these?
Seems like a good idea. I follow Brennan on Facebook. He's the same guy who makes the Tauler Jack kit.

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DaveInDenver

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Does the manufacturer give bend radius and de-rating suggestion?

To fit a 7/16" rope in a 2" shackle receiver the rope must bend around a radius of 1.125" in diameter (or tighter since I only assumed 2" minus two 7/16" thicnesses) so a D/d ratio perhaps on the order of 2.5:1, which is tighter than any guidance Samson gives. They suggest an absolute minimum of 3:1 D/d but that isn't necessarily the radius required for the full 100% rating, just tighter than this is never to be used.

4WD use doesn't fall under any use case and there's no agreed upon design margin here but you can see that even a light load requires 3:1 and general use of 8:1 would suggest a diameter of 3.5" for a 7/16" rope. The ratings on most rigging follows the lifting guidelines (e.g. a 3/4" shackle is 4.75 tons because of ASME rules for cranes and such). So using that would suggest a potentially the 15:1 D/d as a starting point.


BENDING RADIUS

SIZING THE RADIUS OF BITTS, FAIRLEADS, AND CHOCKS


Any sharp bend in a rope under load decreases its strength and may cause premature damage or failure. In sizing the radius of bitts, fairleads, sheaves, and chocks for best performance, the following guidelines are offered: Where a rope is deflected more than 10 degrees around a surface (e.g., bitts or chocks), the effective diameter of that surface should be at least three times the rope diameter. Larger diameters may be required by specific industry guidelines and are better because the durability of the rope increases substantially as the diameter of the surface over which it is worked increases.

For mooring line applications MEG4 recommends a 15:1 D/d ratio. See Samson's Mooring Manual for additional information.

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Where a rope bends more than 10 degrees around a surface (e.g., bitts or chocks), the effective diameter of that surface should be at least three times the diameter of the rope.


SHEAVE RECOMMENDATIONS

To ensure maximum efficiency and safety, sheaves utilized with ropes should be sized to align with existing industry standards for the specific application. In some cases, static or infrequent operation can allow for relatively low D/d ratios between the diameter of the sheave (“D”) and diameter of the rope (“d”), however as the D/d ratio becomes smaller, the static strength and operational longevity will be reduced. The sheave groove diameter should be no less than 10% greater than the rope diameter. The sheave groove should be round in shape. Sheaves with “V” shaped grooves should be avoided, as they tend to pinch and damage the rope through excessive friction and crushing of the rope fibers. Sheave surfaces should be kept smooth and free of burrs and gouges. Bearings should be maintained to ensure smooth rotation.

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Hulk

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Seems like the radius on the part I posted would be bigger than a standard bow shackle attached to a bumper recovery point. What are most people attaching soft shackles to?

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Inukshuk

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I have used a SSRA. I have messaged / conversed with Brennan online and some common friends. I don't agree with everything he has or does but it all seems safe. He has plenty of experience. I think the Tauler Jack product is solid.


I did not read Dave's essay but its probably accurate. 😘

"Does the manufacturer give bend radius and de-rating suggestion?" - not sure but I recall adequate and Matt's point about screw-pin-bow shackles is valid. Take your average 3/8 Amsteel Blue. It is rated for 17,600. 50% de-rate is 8,800. You still want a safety factor (SF) (design margin) for the pull. As Dave says, "4WD use doesn't fall under any use case and there's no agreed upon design margin." So, the more the better! In my circles 2:1 SF is mimimum and then it depends on many things such as consequence of a failure. We are not overhead lifting but you might be dangling at the edge of a precipice with a human in the truck. If I'm flat pulling when stuck in snow (as I did today) mud, or sand I will rig differently than if sliding off a shelf road with 50 foot drop.​

Consensus: Good product. Looks like he now has a yankum made soft shackle with a proper tag. In the past he offered a chineseium untagged ss.

Criticism: It is a one trick tool. Cannot use a steel shackle should you want to. Cf. https://www.safe-xtract.com/product/safe-xtract-sx-rh2-0-receiver-hitch-2/ you can use steel or synthetic and orient vertical or horizontal.
 

DaveInDenver

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I did not read Dave's essay but its probably accurate.
The majority of the "essay" is quoting the Samson Warning Statement.

The minimum bend radius isn't an random value, it's the point when rigging may become a splice or a knot.

Samson does have guidance on soft shackles that indicates bearing surface should be 1.5x rope diameter and round profile.


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View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XnGgOPB8zEM


A legitimate P.E. can produce a stamped statement telling you the bend radius used for design and verified by testing to justify the load rating on the tag. You then use this information to shop for connections that match this.

It may very well be a bend radius of 1:1 or 1.5:1 or 3:1 or 8:1. They just have to tell you otherwise you have to keep stepping back to the last supplier who did give you this data, which would be Samson by default in most cases.

You can't just take an arbitrary number from thin air and assign whatever margin of safety you "feel" is appropriate. It has to be a justifiable technique using your industries' best practices. Since SAE doesn't offer standards all we can do is find one that does closely and explain why you selected and modified it.
 
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Hulk

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Inukshuk

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Of course Safe-Xtract has a super cool receiver hitch insert. I bought this CURT one last year, but now I want the Safe-Xtract one that is shiny and expensive.
I feel ya. I have one Amazon aluminum, a Factor 55, and the safe xtract. I keep the Amazon aluminum and a strap and shackles in my 100 daily driver.
 

Corbet

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I'll admit, its constant discussions/arguments like this over safe radius for soft shackles is why I just keep using my steel shackles.

I'm with Daniel, I like most of Brennan's products, reminds me I still need to build my TaulerJack, but I don't agree with everything he makes. At the end of the day based on his experience level, which is much more than mine, I'm sure they are all fine if used as prescribed.

I see him around town all the time. He came to a couple of our "club" dinners but lately has been rocking a Jeep daily. I have not seen his 45 thing lately. He's got a cool flat fender also. Super nice guy and happy to have discussions about his products.

With respect to the original posted product. I don't care much for hitch based recovery. Once you leave the designed vector force of towing I feel like you're really pushing the strength values of the recovery point. Why not just buy a proper bolt on recovery point rather than and adapter to use in a receiver? (I realize it may not be an option for all vehicles but generally is for Toyotas)

This is all my words, I don't want to discourage Daniel from reading :hill:
 

nakman

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agreed 100% Corbet. really only 1 or 2 use cases where a soft shackle is superior, I know we've discussed this at length and in great detail...

I think the receiver thing gives you a tool to use for someone else, as much as it would be used on your own rig. I have a couple, I never use them. I only carry one on snow runs... again potentially for someone else. There are better attchment points to be found on my rig(s). And then there's the move where you just put the strap into the receiver hitch and put the pin through it- but that doesn't help receiver adapter sales, or soft shackle sales either for that matter... and of course that method is best for straight pulls as the mighty sharp edge of that receiver hitch could dig into your strap. but I think we could likely all get over that and agree it's probably fine to move a 4Runner 4' back out of a snowbank at some mild angle.
 

J Kimmel

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Despite all of the above, I’m sure they would work just fine. I’m not sure what the bending radius is on my 1 1/2” tube but I use that occasionally for a tug or a rollover pull and nothing exploded or killed anyone
 

LARGEONE

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I’ve only used mine for hauling logs with the ATV. I attach a chain hook to it and use it as a cinch on the logs. Way faster than the tractor.
 
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