Replacement lift for my 80: suggestions wanted!

CTS

Rock Stacker
Joined
Apr 14, 2025
Messages
27
I've put 2 different suspensions on my 80 in the last couple years - first to accomodate 33" tires and then 37's. If I were going to start from scratch, I'd put in exactly what I have right now. Here's where I landed with around 3.5" and 37's:

Dobinsons C97-147VT 2.5" rear springs. Despite the advertised lift, they're still giving me around 3.5" of lift with a heavy bumper, dual swingouts and a drawer system. I like the variable rate in the rear. It's compliant but reasonably firm and doesn't feel dramatically different than a linear rate spring.

OME850J front springs + 10mm spacer. Cheap and effective. I don't notice any lack of balance w/ the linear fronts and variable rears and had heard some people on Mud complain about the way variables springs up front corner on the pavement.

Dobinsons "4 inch" IMS shocks. They're heavy duty and the damping is great. They cost more than a basic OME shock, but are less expensive than the remote reservoir options, which I think is a nice sweet spot. The length provides a nice balance of up vs down travel at this ride height.

2" bumpstop extensions: I went with the progressive Durabumps in the rear and have never felt a harsh bottom out. Some of that might be the heavy duty damping on the IMS shocks, some might be the progressive spring rate, and the then the bumpstops smooth out whatever is left. I couldn't use them up front because I'm running longer radius arms, so I extended the front factory bumpstop that sits inside the coil w/ a spacer from Slee.

And then I went w/ Delta 3L radius arms, a Delta rear panhard bracket, adjustable front panhard, adjustable rear UCAs, and longer brake lines. That plus some trimming of the fender flares and a BFH to massage the wheel wells allowed me to fit 37's w/o rubbing on a relatively low 3.5" lift. You definitely don't need more than that for 37's.
 

coloryan

Wincher
Joined
Oct 3, 2023
Messages
50
Location
Littleton
I've put 2 different suspensions on my 80 in the last couple years - first to accomodate 33" tires and then 37's. If I were going to start from scratch, I'd put in exactly what I have right now. Here's where I landed with around 3.5" and 37's:

Dobinsons C97-147VT 2.5" rear springs. Despite the advertised lift, they're still giving me around 3.5" of lift with a heavy bumper, dual swingouts and a drawer system. I like the variable rate in the rear. It's compliant but reasonably firm and doesn't feel dramatically different than a linear rate spring.

OME850J front springs + 10mm spacer. Cheap and effective. I don't notice any lack of balance w/ the linear fronts and variable rears and had heard some people on Mud complain about the way variables springs up front corner on the pavement.

Dobinsons "4 inch" IMS shocks. They're heavy duty and the damping is great. They cost more than a basic OME shock, but are less expensive than the remote reservoir options, which I think is a nice sweet spot. The length provides a nice balance of up vs down travel at this ride height.

2" bumpstop extensions: I went with the progressive Durabumps in the rear and have never felt a harsh bottom out. Some of that might be the heavy duty damping on the IMS shocks, some might be the progressive spring rate, and the then the bumpstops smooth out whatever is left. I couldn't use them up front because I'm running longer radius arms, so I extended the front factory bumpstop that sits inside the coil w/ a spacer from Slee.

And then I went w/ Delta 3L radius arms, a Delta rear panhard bracket, adjustable front panhard, adjustable rear UCAs, and longer brake lines. That plus some trimming of the fender flares and a BFH to massage the wheel wells allowed me to fit 37's w/o rubbing on a relatively low 3.5" lift. You definitely don't need more than that for 37's.
Not trying to derail this discussion, but @CTS what wheel offset/backspacing are you using with that setup? Are you using wheel spacers?
 

jdmblingn

Rock Stacker
Joined
Nov 27, 2024
Messages
42
Location
Denver
I'll throw my two cents in on this, just to increase your sample size...

Fair warning, I quickly took the route of listening to my old rock crawler buddies over the ih8mud nerds. Some decisions I've made have been great, others probably could have been better. :ROFLMAO:

My first setup was an old man emu 850J front/863 (heavy) rear. Slee caster plates, no front swaybar, Fox 2.0 ifp's, and 37's. Loved it. I eventually upgraded the front shocks to a 2.0 external reservoir, Jeep JK fitment, with a pin to eyelet adapter for the lower mount. The only issue I had with this setup was self inflicted, I chose the longer version of the fox rears (3-5" lift) and did not set my bumpstops to match. So, eventually, the rear shocks got sick of being the bumpstop and failed. This happened twice, again, my fault. But, it rode great (I don't have big bumpers or anything, and for a long time, didn't have a winch, drawers, or anything else) and was super stable, great on and off road.

When I swapped in my LS, I decided to do a suspension refresh at the same time. Went with the Dobinsons 3" "flexi" coils front and rear (c59-612v/c59-613v) and Slee/ADS 2.5 shocks. In no way would I say I was disappointed by the change, but, I will say that it was much less dramatic of a change than I expected. I have quite a bit more body roll, a bit more flex (it wasn't really a limiting factor before...) and the ride quality is... similar, maaaaaybe better? I don't know. It's also quite a bit taller in the front, which I was not expecting (the engine/trans is a bit lighter) The shocks really come into their own on a long, very bumpy road though, I've never had them fade out on me. The old, non-reservior 2.0 fox shocks, would get soft after a while, you could actually feel the shock fade. The 2.0 resi's never really had the issue, but running the non reservoir rears I could start to feel the rig porpoise a bit (for lack of a better term...) after you beat it up on a very bumpy road. The 2.5's just don't in my experience. It always holds up. Even in the sand, which absolutely beats on the shocks and bumpstops with a big rig like these.

One change that I made at the same time that I can't say enough about is adding Perry Parts bump stops. These things are amazing. They're about 80% of the performance of a hydro bump, at a much lower price point, I really can't find a downside to them. If you want to spend the money and don't mind the noise, a hydro is awesome. But, if you want some of that performance in a traditional bump? These are the ticket.

Couple other things I will certainly get heat for - I've only ever run a stock steering damper or an OME, they've been fine. Maybe the better ones are better, but I would start to think about hydro assist before tripling my steering damper budget. I also didn't do a bunch of the things people used to say you couldn't live without on 37's, rear swaybar drop, adjustable panhard bars, etc. I don't think there is any harm in doing those items at all. But, I'm 10 years and 125k miles into driving this rig on big tires and have largely avoided any drama. Your results may vary.
 

CTS

Rock Stacker
Joined
Apr 14, 2025
Messages
27
Not trying to derail this discussion, but @CTS what wheel offset/backspacing are you using with that setup? Are you using wheel spacers?
For my 37x12.5x17 BFG MTs, I went with -12mm offset rims, which is around 1/2" outboard from stock and I am not running spacers. A lot of people seem to like more negative offset and/or wheel spacers for a wider track, but it makes it harder to fit the tire in the wheel well and requires fender cutting or further limiting up travel. Based on the clearance I have, I think -6mm would likely be enough to avoid rubbing the radius arms or frame and require even less trimming of the flares, but I haven't tried it so can't confirm that.
 

Hulk

RS Webmaster
Staff member
Cruise Moab Committee
Joined
Aug 22, 2005
Messages
18,079
Location
Centennial
I email Exit Offroad about running this:
  • Dobinsons C97-484VT front springs
  • Dobinsons C97-485VT rear springs
  • Dobinsons IMS59-60689 front shocks
  • Dobinsons IMS59-60681 rear shocks
Response:

Hi Matt

Thanks for reaching out.

The easiest way to see the stock levels is on this page here, as it shows all the colors. It's all in stock.
https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-3-5-4-ims-lift-kit-toyota-land-cruiser-80-series/

You can go with those coils, but you'll need to take current measurements if you want to figure out what your current ride height is. As long as the stock fenders are still on it, measure from the center of the hub up to the flare on all 4 corners and let me know what that is. If you don't have flares, let me know that too. You might be 1"+ lower than the 4" mark and these coils will definitely be at 4-4.5" of true lift.

I don't recommend those super long shocks you chose, as those are really for people that have done 3-link front suspension and customer rear suspension too. Yes, they bolt into the truck but they're longer than the 6" lift shocks, and the 6" lift shocks already require a lot of bump stop extension, so you'd have almost no up travel with those super long ones. I'd suggest the 6" lift shocks front and rear at the most. Since you're only running 35's, you probably have minimal bump stop extension right now.

Thanks,
Mike Tomczyk
Exit Offroad
904-580-7510
Monday to Friday, 10:00am to 5:00pm Eastern Time
https://exitoffroad.com
 

unimogguy

Rising Sun Member
Joined
May 10, 2022
Messages
381
Location
Wheat Ridge, CO
@Hulk

There’s a guy on MUD selling some NOS 80 front and rear springs.


 

Corbet

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Oct 24, 2006
Messages
10,336
Location
Durango, Colorado
Slee/ADS 2.5 shocks. In no way would I say I was disappointed by the change, but, I will say that it was much less dramatic of a change than I expected. I have quite a bit more body roll, a bit more flex (it wasn't really a limiting factor before...) and the ride quality is... similar, maaaaaybe better? I don't know. It's also quite a bit taller in the front, which I was not expecting (the engine/trans is a bit lighter) The shocks really come into their own on a long, very bumpy road though, I've never had them fade out on me.

Running fast all day is where the remotes are worth it. If you don’t do that they are a waste of money. I hammer mine with no noticeable change in performance all day. They can be super stiff in the winter until they warm up. I’ve noticed that on cold mornings.
 
Back
Top