LARGEONE
Rising Sun Member
Damn dude! You opening a body shop next! Looks great Tim!
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nakman's 60 build
- Thread starter nakman
- Start date
Ha! well I appreciate it guys but wait until you see it in person. Seems like the longer I look at it the more flaws I am finding. I bought a little touch-up spray gun at HF, I think on Wednesday it's supposed to get pretty warm out, and hopefully not so windy, I hope to whip up a little batch of paint and just do some touch-ups in the driveway.
And not a lot of new stuff to report... I replaced a fuse block with a newer/cleaner one, put the carb fan, washer bottle, lift struts back on, also installed my new headlight kit and got that side marker light working- I don't think it worked before as the leads going to it weren't measuring any voltage, so I clipped them then grafted them in closer to the headlight plug, where I was getting 12v. Starting to think about where to mount all the dual battery bits... want to at least get the wiring done before I put the carpet back in.
Then last Friday Rusty came back by and we got all the glass installed. I think this is the 4th truck I've had him do now (5 if you count Ron's Bronco). Plug for Rusty here..
I wound up punting on the slider windows for a few reasons. first is they're flat, and the factory windows are curved. So while it could have been possible to reuse the original gaskets, it's not possible because of the curve of the body. So that leaves sheet metal screws with the trim ring on the inside, which kind of stinks as I would have a gap at the top and bottom of the window, with the middle being super tight against the window opening- again from the curve of the truck. So while these CR Lawrence windows do technically fit the 60 opening, they really don't fit that well. So I opted to just put the solid glass back in, and I'll address the sliders down the road...
Took the stickers off the windows, also got all of the door handles installed, added all new door gaskets. Starting to come together a little more now.
And not a lot of new stuff to report... I replaced a fuse block with a newer/cleaner one, put the carb fan, washer bottle, lift struts back on, also installed my new headlight kit and got that side marker light working- I don't think it worked before as the leads going to it weren't measuring any voltage, so I clipped them then grafted them in closer to the headlight plug, where I was getting 12v. Starting to think about where to mount all the dual battery bits... want to at least get the wiring done before I put the carpet back in.
Then last Friday Rusty came back by and we got all the glass installed. I think this is the 4th truck I've had him do now (5 if you count Ron's Bronco). Plug for Rusty here..
I wound up punting on the slider windows for a few reasons. first is they're flat, and the factory windows are curved. So while it could have been possible to reuse the original gaskets, it's not possible because of the curve of the body. So that leaves sheet metal screws with the trim ring on the inside, which kind of stinks as I would have a gap at the top and bottom of the window, with the middle being super tight against the window opening- again from the curve of the truck. So while these CR Lawrence windows do technically fit the 60 opening, they really don't fit that well. So I opted to just put the solid glass back in, and I'll address the sliders down the road...
Took the stickers off the windows, also got all of the door handles installed, added all new door gaskets. Starting to come together a little more now.
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rover67
Rising Sun Member
Looks good Tim, you are cranking on that thing.
FJCDan
Rising Sun Member
Looking great Tim, talk about pushing it with the weather to get it done. At least you have the garage.
Yeah thanks Dan, and the garage makes all the difference. Last weekend I put the windows back into their openings, so without those open filters it actually stays pretty warm out there too which makes a huge difference! Couldn't imagine trying to do this outside...
So last night I got the hatch all wired up again, put back on all of the gaskets, installed the wiper, etc. I am leaving the rear window squirter project for another day- it could be all I need to do is add fluid, or it could be another project, but I'm going to pass on finding out for the time being. So far the back window hasn't gotten that dirty, and I often find myself at the gas station in the 60 so plenty of opportunity clean that glass the old fashioned way...
To reattach the hatch seals, I had to get new fastners that pop into the little holes. I couldn't find these from all the normal channels, but managed to get two different ones from Amazon. These white ones work really well:
These blue ones do not work that well at all, I can't get them to snap in https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XFIENA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so just a little FYI for the next guy
the plastic surround for the button that opens the hatch is pretty crispy... I could use a new one of those, hoping Chasemart stocks this one. I also lost the u-shaped sheet metal thing that holds the lock in place inside the door, so that's held in place with bailing wire right now.
oh, and I also installed a sticker.
Up front I put back the rear seal above the firewall, and also reinstalled the rubber seal that goes on the front of the hood. I also snapped back on the same hood insulation, kinda regret cheaping out on that and not replacing it just because it's dirty, but that's ok hoping the rest of the engine bay will match soon enough.
The plastic push-in clips needed for a lot of the other rubber pieces, and lights for that matter, also aren't easily found at our Cruiser parts sources. So I picked up a couple random kits off Amazon for those too.
Not original, but I was able to put together matching sets that worked well enough to hold things in place again. I needed to trim a couple of the larger screw inserts down to fit into the smaller side marker openings, but other than that these were pretty plug and play... all of my lights have new plastic doodads now, even the ones with cracked ones before. On all of this plastic, it's next to impossible to remove them without breaking them anyway, particularly when they are 35 years old, and even the ones I pulled without breaking just didn't snap in again that well.
Enough on plastic clips, I had to do a mod... was kinda bummed at the in-line fuses that come with the new headlight harness, as I did such a good job cleaning up that inner fender so then shoving them down into the fender next to the battery to get them totally out of sight led to visions of someone else driving the 60 and the pulling over to the side of the road with no headlights, unable to figure out what the problem is... not that those fuses blow that often, but hey that's what we think about, and odds are good when you blow a headlight fuse it's going to be dark out, and probably cold. So then I realized that that shiny new fuse block I installed has a bunch of empty slots in it, so I proceeded to run the power for the lights through it and put the fuses there instead. These fuses are always hot, and the wire that goes to the fuse panel is bigger than the wire in the harness, so I'm going with it. With limited stickers, the low beams are now called "running lights" and the high beams are called "spreader lights." And if you blow one, a little red LED will tell you where to put a new fuse- there's a bag of fuses next to the fuse panel in the dashboard.
Someday I'll label those other fuses also, I only know what about half of them do though. One is for sure the horn, one of them goes to a fog light relay that's no longer being used, the others I'm not so sure. They don't seem to be harming anything being hooked up, I figure a fun test down the road will be to just pull all the unlabeld fuses then see if I discover something not working. It's all aftermarket stuff, either from Art or the guy before him, same wires, same fuses, just new fuse block that's not sheet metal screwed to my shiny blue inner fender. And speaking of sheet metal holes, this panel is screwed into two existing holes in that fender made from someone else. All I needed to do was tap them with a 8-32 tap to get those screws in there (no nuts!) but the spacing of the holes was mysteriously perfect for that fuse panel.
So last night I got the hatch all wired up again, put back on all of the gaskets, installed the wiper, etc. I am leaving the rear window squirter project for another day- it could be all I need to do is add fluid, or it could be another project, but I'm going to pass on finding out for the time being. So far the back window hasn't gotten that dirty, and I often find myself at the gas station in the 60 so plenty of opportunity clean that glass the old fashioned way...
To reattach the hatch seals, I had to get new fastners that pop into the little holes. I couldn't find these from all the normal channels, but managed to get two different ones from Amazon. These white ones work really well:
These blue ones do not work that well at all, I can't get them to snap in https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016XFIENA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 so just a little FYI for the next guy
the plastic surround for the button that opens the hatch is pretty crispy... I could use a new one of those, hoping Chasemart stocks this one. I also lost the u-shaped sheet metal thing that holds the lock in place inside the door, so that's held in place with bailing wire right now.
oh, and I also installed a sticker.Up front I put back the rear seal above the firewall, and also reinstalled the rubber seal that goes on the front of the hood. I also snapped back on the same hood insulation, kinda regret cheaping out on that and not replacing it just because it's dirty, but that's ok hoping the rest of the engine bay will match soon enough.
The plastic push-in clips needed for a lot of the other rubber pieces, and lights for that matter, also aren't easily found at our Cruiser parts sources. So I picked up a couple random kits off Amazon for those too.
Not original, but I was able to put together matching sets that worked well enough to hold things in place again. I needed to trim a couple of the larger screw inserts down to fit into the smaller side marker openings, but other than that these were pretty plug and play... all of my lights have new plastic doodads now, even the ones with cracked ones before. On all of this plastic, it's next to impossible to remove them without breaking them anyway, particularly when they are 35 years old, and even the ones I pulled without breaking just didn't snap in again that well.
Enough on plastic clips, I had to do a mod... was kinda bummed at the in-line fuses that come with the new headlight harness, as I did such a good job cleaning up that inner fender so then shoving them down into the fender next to the battery to get them totally out of sight led to visions of someone else driving the 60 and the pulling over to the side of the road with no headlights, unable to figure out what the problem is... not that those fuses blow that often, but hey that's what we think about, and odds are good when you blow a headlight fuse it's going to be dark out, and probably cold. So then I realized that that shiny new fuse block I installed has a bunch of empty slots in it, so I proceeded to run the power for the lights through it and put the fuses there instead. These fuses are always hot, and the wire that goes to the fuse panel is bigger than the wire in the harness, so I'm going with it. With limited stickers, the low beams are now called "running lights" and the high beams are called "spreader lights." And if you blow one, a little red LED will tell you where to put a new fuse- there's a bag of fuses next to the fuse panel in the dashboard.
Someday I'll label those other fuses also, I only know what about half of them do though. One is for sure the horn, one of them goes to a fog light relay that's no longer being used, the others I'm not so sure. They don't seem to be harming anything being hooked up, I figure a fun test down the road will be to just pull all the unlabeld fuses then see if I discover something not working. It's all aftermarket stuff, either from Art or the guy before him, same wires, same fuses, just new fuse block that's not sheet metal screwed to my shiny blue inner fender. And speaking of sheet metal holes, this panel is screwed into two existing holes in that fender made from someone else. All I needed to do was tap them with a 8-32 tap to get those screws in there (no nuts!) but the spacing of the holes was mysteriously perfect for that fuse panel.
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SteveH
Hard Core 4+
Nice work on the fuses and wiring, and thinking about how easy a roadside fix would be. And good info on the shatter-prone plastic clips! - Thanks!
Ok thanks again for all the support guys... we're going to get this knocked out. Tonight I pulled my carpet kit out of the shed and found the tailgate piece, had to run to the Depot to get 1/4" staples for the staple gun but that was the extent of the technical challenge.. it's a little "billowy," but should flatten out in time right?
Then I pulled out the sound dampening kit that I purchased, which is essentially 7 sheets of this rubber sheet with shiny foil on one side and sticky stuff on the other. The idea is you peel and stick this stuff down to the floor and it will reduce vibration and provide additional sound insulation.
36 square feet came with the kit, as I purchased the "SUV cargo area kit..." I could have used 3x that amount but the stuff is expensive so I just made some choices on where to put it. I mostly covered the transmission hump and floor area behind the front seats, couple big pieces in the cargo area, and some strips inside the doors- mostly the front doors, but I did put a strip in the each of the back doors also. I got all of this from Stock Interiors https://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=23632&ModelId=709
My thought is the wheel wells will be receiving floor mats, so they already get an extra layer of padding. And I didn't put any under the back seat figuring the seat itself is its own dampener. I am tempted to move the 2 big sheets on the floor in the cargo area to the outer walls of the cargo area, but not sure... or even sure if any of this will make much of a difference. I also received new padding along with the new carpet.
Then I pulled out the sound dampening kit that I purchased, which is essentially 7 sheets of this rubber sheet with shiny foil on one side and sticky stuff on the other. The idea is you peel and stick this stuff down to the floor and it will reduce vibration and provide additional sound insulation.
36 square feet came with the kit, as I purchased the "SUV cargo area kit..." I could have used 3x that amount but the stuff is expensive so I just made some choices on where to put it. I mostly covered the transmission hump and floor area behind the front seats, couple big pieces in the cargo area, and some strips inside the doors- mostly the front doors, but I did put a strip in the each of the back doors also. I got all of this from Stock Interiors https://www.stockinteriors.com/AutoCarpet.asp?Itemid=23632&ModelId=709
My thought is the wheel wells will be receiving floor mats, so they already get an extra layer of padding. And I didn't put any under the back seat figuring the seat itself is its own dampener. I am tempted to move the 2 big sheets on the floor in the cargo area to the outer walls of the cargo area, but not sure... or even sure if any of this will make much of a difference. I also received new padding along with the new carpet.
Ok done with carpet. 3 hours Wednesday night, 5 hours last night. The back piece went in pretty straight forward, as did the middle section. I watched their video where they lay the old carpet down onto the new as a cut template, which resulted in 2 regrets- I is I cut out for the rear seat mounts, to match the original, and later wished I would have just made little holes for the bolts and allowed the seat to sit on top of the carpet. But the old carpet had tons of square cut-outs in it which I didn't transfer... just those two. Second regret is just how nasty dirty that old carpet was, which immediately transferred a bunch of dirt to the new carpet. Oh well, live and learn. Here's my template clamped to the middle carpet:
The front piece I fought for a while longer. Paraniod I'd over-cut the shifter openings, I just made a small hole for those figuring I'd open them up to fit... which basically worked, but I still somehow over cut the transfer case opening between it and the transmission. Funny, I made this same mistake on the 40's carpet... even a little worse. Maybe carpet installs aren't my thing. And the humps for the wheel wells were just kind of odd... stock there are these foam covers that were molded to fit, but now I've got these sorta melted carpet chunks to lay over them. I used a bunch of Velcro pieces I have around as a double-sided tape to get them to stick, from a distance they look alright, but they aren't smooth by any means. I still have the stock foam ones, was thinking maybe put those down under the carpet ones for added padding/insulation. But that would mean undoing what I stayed up until midnight last night to complete, so probably not right away. here are some carpet pictures:
A little bummed the carpet kit didn't include anything for the bottom of the rear seat. so that still has the nappy ass old stuff on it... I guess I only see that when the seat is flipped up though, so will likely forget about it.
The front piece I fought for a while longer. Paraniod I'd over-cut the shifter openings, I just made a small hole for those figuring I'd open them up to fit... which basically worked, but I still somehow over cut the transfer case opening between it and the transmission. Funny, I made this same mistake on the 40's carpet... even a little worse. Maybe carpet installs aren't my thing. And the humps for the wheel wells were just kind of odd... stock there are these foam covers that were molded to fit, but now I've got these sorta melted carpet chunks to lay over them. I used a bunch of Velcro pieces I have around as a double-sided tape to get them to stick, from a distance they look alright, but they aren't smooth by any means. I still have the stock foam ones, was thinking maybe put those down under the carpet ones for added padding/insulation. But that would mean undoing what I stayed up until midnight last night to complete, so probably not right away. here are some carpet pictures:
A little bummed the carpet kit didn't include anything for the bottom of the rear seat. so that still has the nappy ass old stuff on it... I guess I only see that when the seat is flipped up though, so will likely forget about it.
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Above you can see I wound up reinstalling Art's wood panels for the cargo area. Had grandiose plans to make new ones, and still will, but for today I need a running vehicle and these are getting the job done. The passenger side one is going to get a fuse block, so that's why you see some wires there. I also ran a bunch of wires into the Tuffy console, so that added a little time to this install but I do have a plan for all of that, so more to come there.
Here's a pic with the center console and front seats put back in:
today I'm going to tackle all of the door panels, and hopefully start in on the bumpers, sliders, tires, dual battery, and fuse panel wiring. Ok maybe today and tomorrow.
Here's a pic with the center console and front seats put back in:
today I'm going to tackle all of the door panels, and hopefully start in on the bumpers, sliders, tires, dual battery, and fuse panel wiring. Ok maybe today and tomorrow.
No
Sam doing some carpet testing...
No way that’s awesome! Ok they’re yours when I replace them. So cool
Sam doing some carpet testing...
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CardinalFJ60
Rising Sun Member
Hey tim, I noticed you added the sheets on the inside of the front door (the inner side of the outer sheet-metal), I'm planning to do the cockpit, and doors, too. Curious - are you going to add a layer between the door card and door? I honestly didn't think to add it inside that cavern, but prolly the right way.
cheers! the 60 is looking GREAT!!!!!!!!!
Hey Shawn no, hadn't planned to try to add anything between the door and door card... other than putting up some plastic as a moisture barrier in the front doors, since I ripped the plastic off of those to remove the door handles & locks. I think dampening the sound/vibration out at the source is more beneficial. Plus there's not a lot of room with those plastic push-in clip doodads.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
i think i still have the goey tacky stuff to bond the plastic to the doors BTW if you need it.
Ok I got about as far yesterday as I could have.. manged to get all of the door panels installed, upgraded the front speakers while I was at it. Installed both bumpers, the rear is bolted up and ready to go, I only put 4 bolts through the front one as I've got a new hood ornament on order and I need to pull the bumper to sneak it in there... that'll be next week hopefully. I also got the tires/rims swapped over.
Starting to look like what we were after here, pics are from this morning. Hope you dig it..
Starting to look like what we were after here, pics are from this morning. Hope you dig it..
rover67
Rising Sun Member
Whoa looks sharp
Sweeet