MileHigh80Guy
Rising Sun Member
Found the install instructions that may help clarify.
Got my first cruiser
- Thread starter mike759
- Start date
mike759
Wincher
Thanks! I see those work around the cat, which is something I'll have to figure out for mine.
mike759
Wincher
As for an update on this: vice grips weren't doing the trick, so I resorted to the Gearwrench bolt biter. This method worked and I did have a replacement bolt on hand from Cruiserteq.
KC Masterpiece
Hard Core 4+
- Joined
- May 4, 2019
- Messages
- 2,034
You should place the ubolt inside of the brake lines. Might need to unbolt them in some spots to fish the ubolt in, but no need to separate anything.
I do not recall the slee sliders having any spacers on the 80. On the 60 the white knuckle sliders have new bolts to space all of the hard lines of the frame.
Last edited:
mike759
Wincher
The rig crushed it in Moab last weekend. Never got around to installing the rock sliders but got through fins n things and hells revenge (skipped the optional obstacles) without touching my rockers.
mike759
Wincher
In the coming months, I plan on gathering materials for a 1.5-2" lift. I'd like a bit of extra ground clearance and to compensate for some more weight. I'm reading mixed opinions on whether or not some kind of caster correction is necessary for a minor lift. I was going to go with the "medium" duty option to account for when the rig is loaded, but will it sit oddly high when unloaded? If so, will it put me over the threshold for caster adjustment?
mike759
Wincher
As of a few days ago I have developed a pretty substantial increase in oil leakage. It’s always had a minor rear main leak that I “shouldn’t worry about” but all of a sudden I’m leaving stains in my parking spot at work. There seems to be buildup around the oil pan gasket, maybe it’s coming from there? There’s also some oil (not atf) around the transmission pan. If anyone has had an experience like this I’m all ears.
Johnny Utah
Rising Sun Member
Looks like oil pan to me.
mike759
Wincher
That’s music to my ears as that looks like a straightforward replacement. But if it is the oil pan would it be traveling all the way back to the transmission pan like it is?
Johnny Utah
Rising Sun Member
If the leak is bad enough it will get blown back onto other things while driving.
mike759
Wincher
Are the lower pan gaskets susceptible to leaks? Now that I’m reading into it, it seems like the upper pan is prone to leaks. Though, that seems like a PIA job to replace.
Lastresort576
Hard Core 4+
its not as bad as the rear main seal, but its definitely annoying to do. but yes it generally is the upper pan arch seal that leaks. if you dont have/have access to an engine hoist, you could use a long 2x4 and a floor jack underneath the crank pulley to raise the engine up in order to drop the pans.
mike759
Wincher
Is this a task that can be done in a single weekend by a beginner or should I just nurse it along until I can pay to have it done? It is my daily driver so can never be out of commission for more than a few days unfortunately.
I’m an amateur mechanic who takes 3X longer to do most jobs than everyone else. I wouldn’t hesitate to tackle that job on a Saturday. Just make sure you have the new gasket and the sealant ready to go. (Toyota FIPG?) I’d also buy a razor blade holder and a pack of one-sided razor blades to scrape off the old gasket. And of course, have fresh oil and a filter ready as well.
mike759
Wincher
This picture is probably hard to make out, but there’s no way a valve cover leak would travel all the way down there that quickly in that quantity, right? I was told the valve cover gasket was done not too long ago, although it's obviously leaking. Could a botched valve cover gasket job warrant that kind of leakage?
Last edited:
Johnny Utah
Rising Sun Member
That falls into the “probably not” category. I suppose that if you ignored a leaking valve cover for long enough, it would eventually make a mess down low. It’s more likely going to come from the lower oil pan, rear main seal, front crank seal, oil pump cover.This picture is probably hard to make out, but there’s no way a valve cover leak would travel all the way down there that quickly in that quantity, right? I was told the valve cover gasket was done not too long ago, although it's obviously leaking. Could a botched valve cover gasket job warrant that kind of leakage?
Another sneaky one is the timing cover. I’ve seen them leak just above the power steering pump where it meets the block. Makes a mess and the engine needs to come out to do a proper reseal.
mike759
Wincher
I’m going to assume it’s something towards the back half of the engine based on where oil is running down. If I were to go ahead and start resealing things working backwards from easiest to replace possible cause we’re should I start? Might also go ahead and to the valve cover gasket while I’m at it as it seems straightforward.
Lastresort576
Hard Core 4+
id start at the front and work your way backwards. dizzy oring, oil pump cover, front crank seal, probably your power steering lines/pump/gearbox, oil pans, rear main seal, transmission input & output seals, HG/VC/valve guide seals/timing cover.
Johnny Utah
Rising Sun Member
What Dwight said. ^^^
