Fyffer's low oil pressure Chevy V8 issue

[Cruisertrash]

Some, a direct Swap, reman zero miles engine 2 weeks ago. Band Aiding that now.

Progress is better than no progress. Happy to hear it my friend.

 

[Cruisertrash]

Checking in again @fyffer. I really want to see you back out on the trails this summer!

 

[fyffer]

Checking in again @fyffer. I really want to see you back out on the trails this summer!

Thanks Jim. I want nothing more than hitting the Trails, Club runs, events and out on my own, NOTHING. Fam is however a priority.
Have had some adverse events, swap still with gremlins, snoopy on my Laptop and Phone following a Bank event and a few other things. I'll post some of my own corrective actions on the Rig soon. But them gremlins is something I am absolutely worthless with. I can onlly post Pic's from my Phone for some darned reason.

 

[Cruisertrash]

No worries man. Thanks for update. Let me know if I can help in any small way.

 

[fyffer]

Time to Crawl out of my boots, following some adverse moments.
The swap was done but a guy cutting wires got a little obsessed, could not put the original wiring together (now bunches of uncut and new wiring in it). Stated it was the ECU as a problem, well I had that bench tested at HP tuners 10/-21 and good (wires cut and new connections there was noted post install).
So knock sensor codes with low input Voltage puts it in limp mode and breaking on the new engine that way is very concerning to me.
Ok, now I installed another set of knock sensors and very specifcly to torque specs. Meticulously cleaned The throttle body and intake manifold as well.
No change in code, just the same. Limp mode continues.

 

[fyffer]

Time to Crawl out of my boots, following some adverse moments.
The swap was done but a guy cutting wires got a little obsessed, could not put the original wiring together (now bunches of uncut and new wiring in it). Stated it was the ECU as a problem, well I had that bench tested at HP tuners 10/-21 and good (wires cut and new connections there was noted post install).
So knock sensor codes with low input Voltage puts it in limp mode and breaking on the new engine that way is very concerning to me.
Ok, now I installed another set of knock sensors and very specifcly to torque specs. Meticulously cleaned The throttle body and intake manifold as well.
No change in code, just the same. Limp mode continues.

Well, the fuel pump running at 64-66 psi vs normally at 58 and recommended/ normal for this engine. Put in a new fuel filter and 58 psi regulator with AN6 connectors (lol, sounds easy doesn’t it). It has not changed a thing.
Not going to bring up that my Solar power not working, nor that my 4WD light does not come on as previously. Connection tube cap to radiator filler reversed, caused severe leakage. Couple of other smaller things.

 

[fyffer]

So, I visited Under Pressure and Performance (UPP) in COS and spoke with the GM Scott and if anyone has experience with them, please share with me.
He was very convincing and stated they specialized in LS engines, showed me around. Had a lot of expensive cars there, installing Turbos many to 500-700 hp some more. Fabricating a lot of parts to exhaust systems and also did custom wiring so it seems very legit.

But being burned in so many ways I am extremely apprehensive.
Would be taking it there to fix wiring, knock sensor code, Fuel pressure and a Tach issues. To include a Dyno tune, it won't be cheap.

I am very open to any suggestions or alternative known sources, but will be limping to location = half power and >2x mpg at ~380 miles on engine.

 

[fyffer]

I can connect + to + and - to -, sums up my el skill level pretty much. Here is examples of wires I found cut. ECU 1 cut with a new connecting wire.

 

[Cruisertrash]

I wish I knew more about these motors, but I'm not very smart haha! Keep at it.

 

[rover67]

It’s almost like you have to start the wiring over again. The only part that looks familiar is the red plug. I think that went to the evap purge solenoid that had the little foam filter after it. Look around the charcoal canister. Is it throwing codes that you can read? That might start to clue you into what circuits are compromised.

 

[fyffer]

It’s almost like you have to start the wiring over again. The only part that looks familiar is the red plug. I think that went to the evap purge solenoid that had the little foam filter after it. Look around the charcoal canister. Is it throwing codes that you can read? That might start to clue you into what circuits are compromised.

Marco, your input is always very valuable to me, thought there was a connection loss. Reading build thread and my silly research, thought the Red plug was for a deleted VSS but properly wrong.
Been looking in to a Stand alone harness, but that is so stupid confusing to me. As I believe it's related to Transmission, type of Intake Manifold. I know I have a drive by Cable and the ECU connector is the Blue and not the Green version and that it is an EFI. That's where I am completely lost, I know if I could do that or get it done. That would be my most cost effective option.
A dyno tune may not be necessary then, I am only looking at MPG not HP. Cause that sucks right now, it was fantastic before.

Any thoughts or suggestions about harness Idea?

 

[fyffer]

I wish I knew more about these motors, but I'm not very smart haha! Keep at it.

Thanks for the added encouragement. Somehow, someway I will get it done.

 

[satchel]

Not sure how much would be the same but I have a 2003 5.3 L59 in my fj62 if it would help you track down any wiring issues. I believe I have the schematic for the GM side of things as well.

 

[rover67]

Im not sure what harnesses are the ones to get anymore but I feel like that setup may have been cut and diced so many times now that it may be a good path. The VSS is no longer used? Did the person that stuck the new motor in delete that?

Sorry on being non responsive just been busy and a bit absent since the 80 is a mess. Trying to get another cruiser and get my balance back. Wondering how you’d get a harness installed.

Does it show any trouble codes as is? If so which ones?

 

[fyffer]

Not sure how much would be the same but I have a 2003 5.3 L59 in my fj62 if it would help you track down any wiring issues. I believe I have the schematic for the GM side of things as well.

Appreciate it, got a Haynes manual for the 1999 - 2006 5.3 models. But then Wiring gets a little confusing again dependant on models. Based on the drivers side Valve cover and it’s solid PCV valve it should be a 2004 or later Engine.

 

[Daytonadogie]

You know about LT1swap.com ?

Appreciate it, got a Haynes manual for the 1999 - 2006 5.3 models. But then Wiring gets a little confusing again dependant on models. Based on the drivers side Valve cover and its solid PCV valve it should be a 2004 or later Engine.

Are you worried about emissions?

 

[J Kimmel]

Lt1swap.com has just about every kind of information you would need for LS wiring. I just completed an LQ4 swap on my F150, and I opted for a standalone instead of pairing down my factory. I used flanderslsswaps.com and it was pretty flawless. The only issue I had was with the O2 sensors and that was my fault for not reading the instructions thoroughly.
There’s several other standalone solutions out there. Might be worth exploring, you can at least get it running and sort out extras like a 4wd light later on.

 

[fyffer]

Im not sure what harnesses are the ones to get anymore but I feel like that setup may have been cut and diced so many times now that it may be a good path. The VSS is no longer used? Did the person that stuck the new motor in delete that?

Sorry on being non responsive just been busy and a bit absent since the 80 is a mess. Trying to get another cruiser and get my balance back. Wondering how you’d get a harness installed.

Does it show any trouble codes as is? If so which ones?

Cut and diced sounds about right, now even more. I did not learn about the VSS delete until after instal so I doubt installer did, but as cable was not connected likely he figured it out (but taped/marked connectors to MAF, Alternator and other basic ones can't be sure). Oh, I found wiring loom laying on exhaust pipe, opened checked all wires, appeared intact. Me and following a return to place secured it a little better.

Dang, so sorry to hear about the 80 I thought for sure it was up and running again. Yep, I know all about balance back.
Only code I've had is P0327

 

[fyffer]

You know about LT1swap.com ?

Are you worried about emissions?

Emissions, absolutely not, don't have that luxury down here😉 LT1 clueless.

 

[Daytonadogie]

Lt1swap.com has all/most of the info you should need as far as engine wiring goes. He breaks it down to differences in years and models, shows how to modify a stock harness to work stand alone. He can reprogram the ecu to eliminate all the emission garbage. Hope this helps!