Fyffer's low oil pressure Chevy V8 issue

[fyffer]

Well it’s been a bit, lots of struggles and endless research on how too and tons for torque specs (too many to mention. 1 new part/tool after another.
Creative in a few ways to Torque the Harmonic balancer to #240 and some more suggestive ways. Built a platform to keep wrench in place, still a biscuit.
Installed new oil pump and water pump, finally got it all installed, new oil/filter. All new gaskets and seals.

Ran great for ~ 2 miles and back to same old crap. Back to Very low oil pressure and beginning to get hot.

So, now I’ll try a compression check suspecting other and bigger problems.

Platform for Torque wrench

 

[rover67]

was there metal in teh oil pan Mike? Sorry you are having problems

 

[fyffer]

Yes, unfortunately a few small pieces. Also noted some torn metal to the very front balancer of the crank shaft, that had me extremely puzzled.
If you have the time to discuss an engine swap, I would be very happy. The parts I got was also part of a contingency, what if, then an LM7.

 

[fyffer]

Yes, unfortunately a few small pieces. Also noted some torn metal to the very front balancer of the crank shaft, that had me extremely puzzled.
If you have the time to discuss an engine swap, I would be very happy. The parts I got was also part of a contingency, what if, then an LM7.

was there metal in teh oil pan Mike? Sorry you are having problems

Despite ..t. Very responsive and great power. Respectfully, what would you do?

 

[White Stripe]

Yes, unfortunately a few small pieces. Also noted some torn metal to the very front balancer of the crank shaft, that had me extremely puzzled.
If you have the time to discuss an engine swap, I would be very happy. The parts I got was also part of a contingency, what if, then an LM7.

How are you measuring your oil pressure? What's the readings? How hot is it running? Is it running hot driving? or sitting idle?

 

[fyffer]

How are you measuring your oil pressure? What's the readings? How hot is it running? Is it running hot driving? or sitting idle?

Autometer gauge installed to back of Block. Start up after the new parts install 30-35 psi, running higher RPM while still cool up to 45-50. Then at temp about 190, on to Hwy up towards Raton pass, Oil pressure kept dropping to 10-15 psi Temp increased rapidly to 210-220. Stopped and itt stalled, Start pressure and Temp no change, then downhill 3 mile drive to home. At idle then about 5-8 psi Temp gradually sinking.

 

[White Stripe]

Autometer gauge installed to back of Block. Start up after the new parts install 30-35 psi, running higher RPM while still cool up to 45-50. Then at temp about 190, on to Hwy up towards Raton pass, Oil pressure kept dropping to 10-15 psi Temp increased rapidly to 210-220. Stopped and itt stalled, Start pressure and Temp no change, then downhill 3 mile drive to home. At idle then about 5-8 psi Temp gradually sinking.

What is the history of the engine? New, Used, or rebuilt? What have you done to it and why? Etc.

 

[fyffer]

What is the history of the engine? New, Used, or rebuilt? What have you done to it and why? Etc.

Bought it Sept 2019 with a 2004 5.3 Vortec. That was bought used at 30k miles on it, installed back in 2007 by Marco (believe you might know him). Installed with odometer on rig at 225k and currently at 378k. So roughly 183k on it, driven by couple lead footers.
I have just pretty much maintained oil more frequently than necessary, but did go from Conventional to Full synthetic 5-30w last Oil change and now back to conventional. Sparkplugs and wire change around 5k ago.

A few minor direct replacement parts, MAF, Idle control sensors another thing on Throttle body I can't think of, very recently.

It seems as it has had long term stalling problems, but never as bad as now. Idle has always been on the low slide when I got it about 650-700 but for the last year around 450 rpm.
Did try to solve that with using an HP tuner I have, by help from a RS friend, cause I don' know didll about how to use it.

I do kind of keep the engine clean so I can check for leaks and such.

Kind of sums it up

 

[fyffer]

Bought it Sept 2019 with a 2004 5.3 Vortec. That was bought used at 30k miles on it, installed back in 2007 by Marco (believe you might know him). Installed with odometer on rig at 225k and currently at 378k. So roughly 183k on it, driven by couple lead footers.
I have just pretty much maintained oil more frequently than necessary, but did go from Conventional to Full synthetic 5-30w last Oil change and now back to conventional. Sparkplugs and wire change around 5k ago.

A few minor direct replacement parts, MAF, Idle control sensors another thing on Throttle body I can't think of, very recently.

It seems as it has had long term stalling problems, but never as bad as now. Idle has always been on the low slide when I got it about 650-700 but for the last year around 450 rpm.
Did try to solve that with using an HP tuner I have, by help from a RS friend, cause I don' know didll about how to use it.

I do kind of keep the engine clean so I can check for leaks and such.

Kind of sums it up

Sorry rig has 387k on it so engine with 192k.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Sorry rig has 387k on it so engine with 192k.

Have you run a compression check? I doubt it's a factor but just curious.

Since I think you got some of the obvious stuff, oil pump, pickup screen, maybe the engine is just worn out. You'd have to check clearance of main and rod, maybe cam too, bearings.

The part that would worry me isn't low oil pressure at idle but that it's so low when fully warmed at running RPM. That would seem consistent with different rates of expansion. Everything could be just enough tighter at cold start for decent oil pressure (but even that seems low, it seem to me cold should be nearly at the relief value pressure) and goes out of tolerance as you get to operating temp.

You can see an obvious case of this If you remember (if you even have ever had to) adjust valves on a 22R. The difference in valve follower clearance is significant stone cold compared to fully warmed because of all the metals involved.

 

[fyffer]

No, I have not done a compression test on it yet and may not. Looking and reading about down leak test as well but don't have a working compressor. Only mechanical work I have ever done is on the 60 and thats more recent.

Wondering if hooking up the HP Tuner could tell you anything obvious?????

 

[DaveInDenver]

I'm not sure diagnostic software is going to tell you anything. Oil pressure is a function of internal mechanical so a computer is going to just give you sensor readings, not more insight than the gauges you already have.

BTW, something that I also wondered what oil filter (brand and model ideally) are you using?

Sometimes oil pressure can be affected by this. It can be incompatible medium or bypass valve that doesn't work right or doesn't work with your combination of block/head(s)/pump/etc. With a SBC it's kind of a long shot but newer engine designs can be particular.

 

[fyffer]

So I ran a Mobil1 synthetic with synthetic oil 5/30. Just installed a WIX but a Tall version vs recommended short with 5/30 conventional.
Hmm, might be something.
Something I read on 1 of several GM , LS7 specific forums without issues.

 

[DaveInDenver]

With oil filers long, short, fat, skinny sometimes doesn't matter or tell you anything. Except when it does matter. It's about the pressure drop across the filter, the bypass valve psi, etc. You don't necessarily even want more oil inside the can.

With a small block Chevy there's been a million different iterations over the years but if I was me I'd at least try finding the right one from the WIX or AC-Delco catalog based on the donor vehicle to see if it changes anything.

 

[White Stripe]

Probably worth starting a tech thread for this. I'm still unsure what parts you've replaced so far. I see a new water pump, and the oil pan is off.

 

[rover67]

agreed, probably worth a tech thread for sure. The oil pressure after warmup seems very low. What does it sounds like when it is getting hot? do you have pictures of the metal you found in it?

the engine is if I remember correctly from a 2003 chevy express van. I don't think the oil type would have caused any issues. Weird filters maybe, but that doesn't seem like the culprit. Stick a PH46E in it and double check.

One thing that does happen is the o ring for the oil pickup tube can get messed up. Did you remove and replace the oil pickup tube and check the o ring?

 

[rover67]

Also worth checking the pickup strainer and tube to make sure they are clear.

 

[rover67]

Last thought, I'm not sure where the oil pressure relief valve is but it'd be worth checking if it's sticky or moving freely. ALso I wouldn't be pushing that motor with low oil pressure like that or it will end up destroying itself.

edit, sounds like the relief is in the pan on truck pans

 

[fyffer]

agreed, probably worth a tech thread for sure. The oil pressure after warmup seems very low. What does it sounds like when it is getting hot? do you have pictures of the metal you found in it?

the engine is if I remember correctly from a 2003 chevy express van. I don't think the oil type would have caused any issues. Weird filters maybe, but that doesn't seem like the culprit. Stick a PH46E in it and double check.

One thing that does happen is the o ring for the oil pickup tube can get messed up. Did you remove and replace the oil pickup tube and check the o ring?

Cleaned everything thoroughly, Oil pan, Pick up tube/strainer with new seal as directed by Melling that came with thte Oil pump, new Seal to crank shaft on front cover, New gaskets to Water pump everything torqued to suggested specs.

 

[fyffer]

Probably worth starting a tech thread for this. I'm still unsure what parts you've replaced so far. I see a new water pump, and the oil pan is off.

Sorry and agree did not know it would lead this far.