FJ40 Carburetor Questions

[Yakubj]

Over the weekend my 1980 FJ40 started idling rough and then didn't want to start. Cranked fine so tested with a bit of carb cleaner and fired right up. Pulled off air filter to see a clogged jet on my carburetor. Tried to get it unstuck by opening at the bolt, lifting the float and spraying carb clean and compressed air through but no luck. Been doing a lot of research the last couple of days but everything I have been reading seems to be a bit dated so I figured I would ask around here for anyone who has done one. I can't find an OEM kit but Cruiser Corp has an unnamed and Keyster rebuild kits available, will one of those work? Also from what I have read the 79-80 carbs are the worst. People recommend getting an 81+ and just using the top off the old one to increase performance but I can't find any carbs for a decent price right now. Amazon has a reproduced one that they sell. Anyone have any experience with these? Could I pop one on and drive it around until I can get a decent core and do a nice rebuild?

 

[Rzeppa]

How could you see a clogged jet? The jets are horizontal.

 

[rckhound]

How could you see a clogged jet? The jets are horizontal.

I was thinking the same thing. I would also check fuel delivery. The Keyster kits are decent but you may want to buy an OEM style accelerator pump from City Racer.

 

[MDH33]

Float valve sticking maybe?

Don't buy one of the junk Amazon or ebay carbs. You can fix yours.

 

[Yakubj]

Thank you all for replying. I assumed clogged jet because when I opened up the bolt fuel came out. Could a stuck float cause only one to stop? Carburetors are an area where I need to learn a lot. Main reason I skipped doing it with the engine rebuild. That definitely came back to bite me. Here’s a picture I took of it:

 

[RicardoJM]

It looks like your primary barrel is really wet. I don't know if that is from the carb cleaner you sprayed or from fuel getting in due to the float being stuck open. Either way, you should pick up a kit, some carb cleaner and rebuild it. While it is a very detailed process, I am pretty sure you can do it successfully. Having rebuilt a couple of F/2F engines and few carbs (though it has been a while), they both required attention to detail - but a carb is much smaller and easier to keep track of things.

If you decided to move forward with the rebuild and could use some assistance/guidance - let me know. The OEM carb is really good and provided there is no real damage (typically there isn't) they clean up pretty easy and work very well.

 

[subzali]

If it doesn’t want to start and idle it might be an idle circuit issue. If you had anything floating in the carb bowl it could have gotten stuck in the idle jet. Also check your idle circuit solenoid operation (should hear a click from solenoid on top of carb when key is turned to ON). Might be a good time to do a once-over of other tuneup items too like air filter, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor. Make sure your plug wires are tight. Check vacuum hoses are tight and nothing popped off.

I feel like keeping with the OEM carb is your best bet; not sure why you’ve seen or read that it’s an undesirable year.

 

[Rzeppa]

Yeah I have never heard of particular years of 2F carbs as having issues, and I have been driving and working on old Land Cruisers for over 41 years. I tend to not pay too much attention to the stuff people put out there in the interwebs, a large fraction of it is utter BS and not based on anyone's first-hand experience (this forum being a wholesome exception!).

Toyota was pretty good about making incremental improvements from one year to the next, although like all auto manufacturers, they were hamstrung by USA spec EPA emission requirements, and each manufacturer used various methods to meet those requirements.

 

[kurtnkegger]

If it doesn’t want to start and idle it might be an idle circuit issue. If you had anything floating in the carb bowl it could have gotten stuck in the idle jet. Also check your idle circuit solenoid operation (should hear a click from solenoid on top of carb when key is turned to ON).

I think Matt is on the right track here. An "all of a sudden" problem tends to be an electrical problem, where as a mechanical issue is slow to show itself. I would look at the idle circuit first.