@ColoradoLC You can do this. Find the videos that Pinhead posted on YouTube - they should be easy to find if search something like "Pinhead carb rebuild". Use the manual (
https://archive.org/details/2-f-engine/page/n55/mode/2up) to guide you in the rebuild, it starts in Section 6. Follow it
exactly. With respect to passing emissions in general, make this your bible:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2f-engine-emission-control-1981-36043e.138/ Go through and test EVERYTHING. Replace all the vac lines if they're old, whether they look fine or not. Before a smog test change: oil, oil filter, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs. I agree with Ross that rejetting isn't super common and these carbs run fine at altitude when the rest of the system is properly set up. There's one exception to that and I'm not even going to get into it unless you're completely bombing on NOx
and HC, but CO is super low. It's a workaround/system adjustment that's just confusing noise unless you're failing emissions in that very specific way - I don't want to send you down the wrong track. You have to make sure
every system is functioning properly to get these trucks to pass Colorado's newer and more stringent smog standards. Look on the driver's side inner fender - do you have the black & white vacuum valve there? If so - gotcha! - you haven't gone completely through the engine bay. that's just one example. Those valves are all bad at this age and need to be replaced with the 80 Series equivalent (City Racer has 'em cheaper than the dealership). Some common issues: stuck EGR valve, leaky EGR system, both Air Injection system check valves not working, Hot Air Intake system stuck on, evap canister/evap system non-functioning, distributor venting system not working (won't affect smog test results, but can corrode your dizzy). And vacuum leaks, everybody's got 'em unless they've gone over the system with a fine tooth comb.. What'd your idle vacuum out of curiosity. Base timing set by the book? I should probably also ask if you did the lean drop carb tuning method before running through emissions last time.
@Rzeppa I had Chenoweth do a dizzy for me recently and it took 22 months from initially reaching out to getting it back. He did a carb for me around 2020 and there was less wait time back then. Must be nice to be friends with him haha.
@MonPetiteShoe Getting rid of the carb, eh? Is that what you alluded to in the other thread where you said you were about to do some work on your 60? EFI? How much do you want for the carb?
@RDub I have the Toyota carb tool set, the basic version not the deluxe. It does have the angle gauge/pantograph thing though, which is extremely helpful in setting the secondary kick up angle. It can be done with a level app on your phone and a small straight edge though.
General notes on carb rebuilds:
-The Keyster rebuild kit does not come with a secondary diaphragm. Napa sells them separately. The Walker kit is also good, but I think it typically comes with the 40 Series secondary diaphragm which will not work.
-Get the accelerator pump plunger from City Racer. The kits all have AP pumps with rubber seals, the City Racer has a leather seal that lasts MUCH longer.
-City Racer also has bling stuff like new white zinc plated screws, new sight glass window, etc, if you want to put some shiny bits on the carb.
-Use gasket shellac to seal up all of the small, round, aluminum plugs (they look like half a ball bearing on the outside of the carb, there's several of them). In the past 18 months I've found several of those that leak on multiple carbs. They may have aged to the point where they're all getting loose.
-Blow out every passage with carb cleaner in a spray can. Carb dip is not enough. Ultrasonic cleaner is better, but still blow every passage out.
-The secondary slow cut valve is going to leak. That's just how it is.
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