Adding 12v accessory (cigarette) outlets

Corbet

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Thanks Drew. I still can't make up my mind on either one of those, or the one that Christo uses from Wrangler. The wrangle one fits the best under the passenger seat.(rear heater side panel) I like the features of the one that Chris used the best, but it's also the largest and not likely to be very user friendly to wire up in the location I want. The glass fuse type Drew has there will probably fit pretty good as both the + and - accessory posts are on the same side. But then I've got to have two types of fuses with me. I really like that with BlueSea you can order custom labels.

I'm leaning towards the glass fuse on though. Fuses don't take up much space and I think that one will fit where I want it.
 

Shark Bait

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You know, I went by West Marine today again. I had thought about it a little more and went ahead and bought a 6 glass fuse box for my project 40 and 6 blade type box for my 80. I think I can make do in the 40 with 6, and the idea of using the same type of fuses appealed to me. Of course he 80 has the blade type.

Damn, wire is expensive. I picked up an already cut length of both red and black 2 ga. and even with a 30% discount it was $4.59/foot. I went with 6 ga. :eek:
 

Corbet

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Corbet, this thread might help some --> http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=3567

Starting with post #31 there is discussion on adding a second fuse block with some helpful information on wiring size etc. As for amp ratings once you have the fuse block installed then you can wire up and fuse the individual circuits at the appropriate size for what the device requires. How big of a secondary fuse block you need (max amp rating, max # of circuits, etc.) is determined by what all you are planning to add. I would suggest going the next size up to allow for growth (i.e. you plan to add 3 ckts then go for a block that will support 6 or more ckts)

HTH :cheers:

The wiring chart did not go as high as my fuse block is rated for. (80 amp) with a margin of safety I think I'll put a 60 or 70 amp circuit breaker on it. Something like this under the hood. Its waterproof too.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=119

What does the forum say for wire? 6 or 8 awg? Probably have to run 10-12 feet. Battery to fuse block under passenger seat. I know bigger is normally better but harder to run in tight spaces and more $ too.
 

corsair23

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What does the forum say for wire? 6 or 8 awg? Probably have to run 10-12 feet. Battery to fuse block under passenger seat. I know bigger is normally better but harder to run in tight spaces and more $ too.

Corbet,

IIRC when I was looking at this stuff last year (yeah, I still haven't got it done) I came up with needing 6ga to run from my battery (DS) to the fuse block under the PS (planned location).

I couldn't find 6ga wire :confused:. So, IIRC I bought 4ga from Mitek...maybe it was 8ga...I think I figured the run at >10-12' though. Are you running from a second battery or the main battery on the DS?

This site seems to recommend 8ga for up to 100amps and 4ga for up to 150amp. It also shows (if I'm reading it correctly) that for 600 watts/96 amps you'd need 4ga wire for a run of 8' or more...
 

Corbet

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Did the install this weekend

Blue Sea fuse block, part # 5015
Blue Sea circuit breaker 60 amp, waterproof, part # 7111
West Marine double 12v outlets, part # 6867915
Heat Shrink tubing from Northern Tool

All wire/connectors sourced from Ebay vendor: http://stores.ebay.com/Genuinedealz

6/2 awg, marine grade
10/2 awg, marine grade
12/2 awg, marine grade
Closed End Tinned lugs
10-12 awg waterproof heat shrink ring terminals

Also installed, Kenwood TM-v71a Dual Band HAM Radio

The complete system is very overkill as far as wire gauge verse power demands. My goals were to minimize voltage drop, allow for future expansion, waterproof as possible, and maintain the cleanest possible appearance.



First up the fuse block. I choose the glass fuse type block from Blue Sea because of the mounting holes. I was able to use the factory screw for one. Blue Sea also offers a modern blade type fuse block but IMO this one fit better.

I followed Slee's example and placed it under the passenger seat on the side of the heater. Power is suppied by 6/2 awg from the battery. 10/2 awg goes to the rear 12v outlets, 12/2 awg to the front 12v outlets. Used the supplied Kenwood wiring harness for the HAM
 

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Corbet

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12v Outlets

12 volt outlets installed into passenger side of center console and in the rear below ash tray. 10/2 awg run behind interior trim to rear outlets.
 

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Corbet

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Kenwood TM-v71a. Radio placed under drivers seat. The mounting bracket had to be modified in order to lower the radio to clear seat mechanicals. The control panel is installed into the back of the center console. I first removed the fake wood trim with a heat gun and gasket scraper. I cut the hole with a Dremel tool. Right now the fit is tight enough that I didn't have to make any kind of bracket. I need to find a better way to cut plastic and then reinstall the wood trim. Antenna coax is run under the carpet to the door sill trim where it continues to the back hatch mount.
 

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Corbet

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60 amp circuit breaker mounted next to the drivers side battery. I used one of the captured nuts on the inner fender. It also works like a master switch if I want to kill power to the fuse block. That way if I let a family member drive the truck I can prevent unauthorized use of the HAM or the battery being drained due to accessories plugged into the 12v outlets.
 

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nakman

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Wow, looks great Corbet! I like how clean your wiring is..
 

corsair23

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KUDOS Corbet. Very nicely done indeed!!

I hope mine turns out as nicely. Did you installed switched and non-switched power to the fuse block? I also like the idea of the circuit breaker (I assume in lieu of a fuse?).

Two :thumb:s up
 

Convert

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Nice job looks very clean :thumb:
 

Red_Chili

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Very nice.

I found a 100A circuit breaker at an auto sound store down the street that looks identical to that Blue Sea one, and it supplies power to my compressors and trailer brakes. It is a very clean and good working unit, you'll like it.

Now I need to find high capacity fuses for the batteries themselves... just something about running 1/0 welding cable the length of the truck (even though it is in irrigation pipe for armor) that leaves me a bit unsettled. 300A fuses anyone?
 

Uncle Ben

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Very nice.

I found a 100A circuit breaker at an auto sound store down the street that looks identical to that Blue Sea one, and it supplies power to my compressors and trailer brakes. It is a very clean and good working unit, you'll like it.

Now I need to find high capacity fuses for the batteries themselves... just something about running 1/0 welding cable the length of the truck (even though it is in irrigation pipe for armor) that leaves me a bit unsettled. 300A fuses anyone?
Check NAPA! I have bought them there before but I have noticed all the parts jobbers redid their electrical accessory stock fairly recently. I guess hi-power/hi-amp distribution in newer cars is unheard of. As cars are designed more and more disposable with much engineering going into crumple zones micro electronics are becoming the norm. :(
 

Red_Chili

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Gee, pretty affordable too.
So Dave, how would you size them?
 
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