Adding 12v accessory (cigarette) outlets

Corbet

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I'd like to add a pair of accessory outlets to the side of my center console before CM. My CB runs off one and I'm going to add a Sirius Stiletto. That will leave one extra for phones, GPS, etc...

Anyway, who's got a good source for the outlet hardware. The best I've found so far is from West Marine.

http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...=true&storeNum=5002&subdeptNum=9&classNum=311

What has everyone else used? Is there anything out there that will offer a stock look?
 

Romer

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I got a 12V outlet at pepboys. I actually have two on the right side of the center console and then another in the back. All individually fused in a secondary fuse box and always on.
 

nuclearlemon

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got the ones for teh raffle rig at checker.
 

corsair23

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Corbet,

I ran out of time before CM07 so I went hi-tech and picked up something like this (except mine is silver, has an on/off switch, and was had at Target or Wally World for ~$10 IIRC):

http://www.realtruck.com/php/watermark.php?code=ec-7041.wct&id=972

I still don't have additional outlets installed :rolleyes: - But, this has worked for me and I've have the kid's DVD player, cell phone, and IPOD all plugged in and powered at one time with no problems. :hill:

I know it isn't what you are looking for but in case you get in a time crunch it might be an option.
 

Corbet

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Kind of off the topic but part of this install. I'll also be adding an accessory fuse block to handle the power outlets as well as a future HAM install. Looking ahead, is it safe to assume a 15a circuits will meet the power demands of a HAM radio, ARB frig, etc....

Thinking something like this right now.

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=PRF-70207&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Or there was a thread on MUD regarding using an OEM cherokee fuse box that looked pretty cool.
 
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corsair23

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Kind of off the topic but part of this install. I'll also be adding an accessory fuse block to handle the power outlets as well as a future HAM install. Looking ahead, is it safe to assume a 15a circuits will meet the power demands of a HAM radio, ARB frig, etc....

Corbet, this thread might help some --> http://www.risingsun4x4club.org/forum2/showthread.php?t=3567

Starting with post #31 there is discussion on adding a second fuse block with some helpful information on wiring size etc. As for amp ratings once you have the fuse block installed then you can wire up and fuse the individual circuits at the appropriate size for what the device requires. How big of a secondary fuse block you need (max amp rating, max # of circuits, etc.) is determined by what all you are planning to add. I would suggest going the next size up to allow for growth (i.e. you plan to add 3 ckts then go for a block that will support 6 or more ckts)

HTH :cheers:
 

Corbet

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I'm looking at a 7 circuit block. 3 always hot, 4 ignition.

Probably wire up the HAM, Frig, and one front outlet always hot. The other 4 leave for additional outlets and other misc crap.

Anyway the ARB website only gives an average amp hour draw. (.7 - 2.7 amp hour) Anyone with real world experience of what a frig will draw while actually running at max? Looks like most of the HAM's I've looked at are fused at 15a. So I'm good there.

The only thing that has me a little worried about that painless unit is the 30a relay. Each circuit has a 20a fuse. But if all the ignition hot circuits have to run through the 30a relay then you could in theory overload it. (if I understand it correctly?)

I guess having an engineer as a roommate for 10 years makes me over think everything too much. :rolleyes:

Thanks for the link, I'll research a few of the links inside that thread.
 

corsair23

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Hopefully Romer will chime in :D

He has a fridge and all the goodies plus being the EE he is this is probably no brainer stuff for him. I'm no help because I still don't have the foggiest of an idea how you make a ckt "ignition switched" vs. hot :hill: - When I installed my CB I just ran power straight off the battery. That I can do :)
 

Corbet

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I'm no help because I still don't have the foggiest of an idea how you make a ckt "ignition switched" vs. hot :hill: -

With the painless box you just need to tap into a circuit you know is ignition hot, and that trips the relay. The relay then completes the circuit at the fuse box. But your main power still comes right off the battery. You then add accessories to the box just like you would to the battery.

Accessories added to the always hot circuits are pretty much connected directly to the battery but the box is just a fancy inline fuse.

Pretty much just like using a wiring harness for a set of driving lights. But the fuse box is the lights. And you tap off a circuit like you do the headlight wire.

Did that make sense? Sometimes my hands don't type what my brain is thinking to well.
 

corsair23

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Did that make sense? Sometimes my hands don't type what my brain is thinking to well.

Makes perfect sense :thumb:...Applying it is the difficult part for me though :D

Maybe once I actually dig into it and do it things will make more sense. I have the fuse box Slee sells and when I looked at it is is just one strip and it wasn't obvious where the ignition source would feed in.

On a side note, and I meant to mention this before, on the Painless aux fuse box I recall a post by Gary (waggoner5) about there being a couple different versions of the Painless blocks and there was one you want to get if you go that route and there was one you want to avoid.
 

Rezarf

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Corbet, I am doing all this right now in the 40 and the trailer.

I am using Blue Sea block 5015 and the west marine triple outlets (the kind you posted) that I got last month in florida. Both are really high quality! Ebay is great for the Blue Sea stuff. I may have paid about 30 bucks for the block verses all the cash for the Painless... it is a no brainer, with easy hook up and the same fuses as the 40 uses any how.

You can also get the lables to say fridge, ham, lights... etc. Very nice touch

I just bought a distribution panel for the trailer that is a fuse block and switch panel all in one... the stuff is first class and really well made. :thumb:
 

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Three Wheel Ben

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Another good source for fuse blocks is www.wranglernw.com, not much on their website but they have a 60 page catalog and great customer service. I've been buying stuff from them for years.

Also the fridge thing, I have an ARB and I have measured 2.9 amps at compressor start-up and it drops to about 2.4-2.5 while the fridge is running. HTH

ben
 

corsair23

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Thanks for the fridge info. I've looked at the Wrangle website, it sucks, I can't find any info on their fuse block. Christo pointed me there too as that's where he gets his.

Corbet,

Did you download the catalog? It looks like pg 59 of the catalog has the fuse blocks Slee sells and if I'm reading it correctly they are rated for 80 amps. There isn't a lot of specific info in general IMO but I used it more to get an idea of what all might be available out there (sometimes you just don't know they even make a "whatchamacallit" until you see it) and went from there knowing what to search on. I bought a lot of my wiring, fuses, battery terminals, etc. from Mitek in their closeout section --> here. I mentioned this place in the other thread I linked to (post #44) with a hint on shipping cost etc.
 

Romer

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I bought my basic fuse block at pep boys. All accessories off of it are hot. I also wired the CB and Ham so I could chat when the truck is off. I switched the cigarette lighter over to be always hot as well.

The outlets are also used to charge stuff or use the inverter to charge a laptop or camera.

But I have dual batts so if I run a battery down, its just a switch. Never have had an issue so far. Had a lot of stuff powered sitting in my truck over night at Flat Nasty with no issues.

You want to make sure you use the correct gage wire. I think I used 10 for the fridge and Ham and 12-14 for everything else.
 

Hulk

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I have bought fuse blocks for both my 80 and my 40 from West Marine. The quality is great.
 

Rezarf

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Corbet-

Here are a few of the shots you wanted of the Blue Sea panel it is sharp.

I like how simple it is, and one little bonus is the little yellow levers actually pop the fuse out. It is really well made and feels really solid in my hand.

Drew
 

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Shark Bait

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I went with one of these because I may go past 6 acessories. Unfortunately it didn't come in a glass fuse version.
 

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Rezarf

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That is a nice panel, I just wanted to keep one kind of fuse on hand. I liked that panel more, but in the end the trailer and aux fuses will all be the glass fast burn style. Just the way I thought about it.

Drew
 
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