96 FZJ80 Oil/Coolant Consumption

AdamKFarmer

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Thanks Mike and everyone! That seems to have worked. I think I have a small leak from the front of the oil pan but it's very small and I might just have to give up for a while. Also found this pin while taking off my throttle body. Does anyone recognize it?
 

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AdamKFarmer

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Could this be why my cruise control doesn't want to work now? Haha
 

AdamKFarmer

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I appreciate everyone's help on the crank pulley! The small oil leak actually went away so she's buttoned up and running well! I do have another issue, my cruise control isn't working now. It worked fine before, but since replacing the head it hasn't. There aren't any fault codes and the green cruise light comes on, it just doesn't do anything. I've checked all the plugs and my speedo/tach work fine so leads me to believe it's not my speed sensor. Does anyone have any suggestions/ thoughts?
 

DaveInDenver

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This is the FSM section for a 1994. Not sure it's identical but should get you started.

That the lamp on the dash lights up is a small part of what has to happen. That seems positive that at least the cruise ECU is probably still alive.

As always, start with the fuses. Then chase down all the connections. I'd start with grounds to make sure you didn't overlook one. Hopefully a simple wiring issue that is confusing the ECU.
 

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AdamKFarmer

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This is the FSM section for a 1994. Not sure it's identical but should get you started.

That the lamp on the dash lights up is a small part of what has to happen. That seems positive that at least the cruise ECU is probably still alive.

As always, start with the fuses. Then chase down all the connections. I'd start with grounds to make sure you didn't overlook one. Hopefully a simple wiring issue that is confusing the ECU.
Dave-
Thanks! I walked through my FSM but didn't do some of the sensor tests, I think that will be next, I assume it was something i messed up when putting it all back together but still working on that.
 

AdamKFarmer

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Bought a bench 12v source to test everything in the system, this will track down the issue I'm sure!
 

AdamKFarmer

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Keeping everyone abreast of this, the problem solved itself more or less. I made sure the cable was tightened properly, which it pretty much was, and now it works perfectly. I don't know if a little bit of slack or maybe the ECU had to re-learn things but we're back in bidness. Thanks for everyone's help, it runs really well and getting 16ish MPG and runs real smooth.
 

AdamKFarmer

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Bumping this back up. I have another mystery. My PS side window quit working from the master-switch after I had the glass replaced from Safelite. I was parked in RiNo at a co-working space and someone saw my gym bag on my PS seat and decided they wanted my sweaty gym clothes. Anyway, Safelite repaired it a week later and we're good to go, only issue is now it doesn't work from the master-switch. I took the switch apart and cleaned it and it still didn't work. Decided to replace the whole switch with a Toyota one and it still doesn't work. I've opened up the door and chased the wires to the computer and they seem to be fine. Here is the wiring diagram if anyone has any suggestions I'm all ears.
 

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AdamKFarmer

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I think the magic in troubleshooting is asking for help. I did some more electrical trouble shooting and realized the switch in the PS door is bad and that was the issue. Which makes sense, prob got rained in while waiting for safelite!
 

AdamKFarmer

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Okay, back to the original concern. When I finished the HG I filled it with 5w30 to the top of the fill line and have driven it about 2-3k miles, it's about halfway down the hatch mark on the dip stick. Thinking of doing Rotella 15w40 next oil change. Any thoughts?
 

60wag

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I use 15w40 and have nearly zero oil consumption. I used to run something thinner but Robbie rec'd the 15w40 when he did the head gasket 10 years ago.
 

AdamKFarmer

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I use 15w40 and have nearly zero oil consumption. I used to run something thinner but Robbie rec'd the 15w40 when he did the head gasket 10 years ago.
Just the confirmation I needed to hear. Thanks!
 

KC Masterpiece

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Okay, back to the original concern. When I finished the HG I filled it with 5w30 to the top of the fill line and have driven it about 2-3k miles, it's about halfway down the hatch mark on the dip stick. Thinking of doing Rotella 15w40 next oil change. Any thoughts?
Did you fill to top of the fill line cold and then measure it warm? That could be your difference.

I consistantly burn about a quart between 5k mile changes. Been that way for 5 years.

Rotella 15w40 goes in all our old toyotas.
 

AdamKFarmer

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Did you fill to top of the fill line cold and then measure it warm? That could be your difference.

I consistantly burn about a quart between 5k mile changes. Been that way for 5 years.

Rotella 15w40 goes in all our old toyotas.
I just checked it after the rebuild just now, not sure exactly on temps. I just 15w40 in the 82 with 160k less miles, so I bet I would be okay. Thanks!
 

Rzeppa

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I dunno about the 1FZ-FE, but F and 2F owner's manuals say 10W-30. I typically bump up to 10W-40 once a motor is over a couple hundred thousand miles. None of my rigs ever burn oil, but occasionally will drip a little on the garage floor from old gaskets and seals. I've never seen 15W anything before, where do you get that?
 

AdamKFarmer

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I dunno about the 1FZ-FE, but F and 2F owner's manuals say 10W-30. I typically bump up to 10W-40 once a motor is over a couple hundred thousand miles. None of my rigs ever burn oil, but occasionally will drip a little on the garage floor from old gaskets and seals. I've never seen 15W anything before, where do you get that?
Jeff, yes you're correct for the 2F (and 1FZ-FE) I did the 15w40 due to the zinc additive it contains for the lifters (I buy it at AutoZone, Shell Rotella) my 80 has 260k so a bit higher mileage and doesn't drip oil and seems to be consuming much less after the head rebuild.
 

Rzeppa

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What does going up in viscosity do when you're compensating for wear?

It maintains more evenly distributed oil pressure and the oil wends its way through the various galleys and (worn) bearings, which have more clearance than they did before they were worn.
 

DaveInDenver

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It maintains more evenly distributed oil pressure and the oil wends its way through the various galleys and (worn) bearings, which have more clearance than they did before they were worn.
Right, I know that's the theory but does that actually happen? The oil has higher viscosity but the oil molecule is not necessarily dimensionally thicker and clearances aren't wearing that much, gaining a thousandth of an inch is a lot.

The oil pressure I think I understand going up due to the way the oil pump works but if the oil weight had an effect on bearings then how does 0W8 work? It surely can't have much cushioning and if what is said about tolerances and clearances is true then that thin-as-water viscosity would have to work much better in the opposite way as thick as syrup 15W40 oil in it's ability to cushion. That ultra thin oil may be working at single molecule layer films.

I also 100% admit to not having a clue how bearings and oil really work. It's got something to do with surface area and displacement and time. Some talk about electrical engineering as black magic. How an engine works without seizing up is black magic to me. Nevermind all the variables of temperature, start up vs operating conditions, etc. For example, say an oil prevents initial wear better but is slightly worse running is that perhaps better since most damage happens in the first few seconds after starting?

So is going to thicker oil a placebo effect? When the needle on the oil pressure gage points higher we think that is better. But in fact the ideal pressure may be nearly zero when you consider that pressure is building as the result of fluid's resistance to flow (e.g. is it psi or GPM that's important?). Wouldn't higher viscosity = lower volume of oil circulating? Could that work against you and accelerate wear? Particularly if you have uneven bearing wear. So if you have say one bearing with more wear where thicker oil does help compensate but are you harming the others where it's not needed by slightly starving them?
 
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subzali

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Right, I know that's the theory but does that actually happen? The oil has higher viscosity but the oil molecule is not necessarily dimensionally thicker and clearances aren't wearing that much, gaining a thousandth of an inch is a lot.

The oil pressure I think I understand going up due to the way the oil pump works but if the oil weight had an effect on bearings then how does 0W8 work? It surely can't have much cushioning and if what is said about tolerances and clearances is true then that thin-as-water viscosity would have to work much better in the opposite way as thick as syrup 15W40 oil in it's ability to cushion. That ultra thin oil may be working at single molecule layer films.

I also 100% admit to not having a clue how bearings and oil really work. It's got something to do with surface area and displacement and time. Some talk about electrical engineering as black magic. How an engine works without seizing up is black magic to me. Nevermind all the variables of temperature, start up vs operating conditions, etc. For example, say an oil prevents initial wear better but is slightly worse running is that perhaps better since most damage happens in the first few seconds after starting?

So is going to thicker oil a placebo effect? When the needle on the oil pressure gage points higher we think that is better. But in fact the ideal pressure may be nearly zero when you consider that pressure is building as the result of fluid's resistance to flow (e.g. is it psi or GPM that's important?). Wouldn't higher viscosity = lower volume of oil circulating? Could that work against you and accelerate wear? Particularly if you have uneven bearing wear. So if you have say one bearing with more wear where thicker oil does help compensate but are you harming the others where it's not needed by slightly starving them?
I think history has shown folks that they have a reduction in oil loss when using higher viscosity oils. So that’s another factor besides lubrication.

My 1FZ-FE engines get Mobil - 5W-30 high mileage. Available at Costco FWIW. The white turbocruiser with 100,000 miles on a Robbie head rebuild burns nothing. The green turbeaucruiser burns about a quart every 5,000 miles, which I’m pretty sure is valve stem seals.
 
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