80 Series, moving axle forward?

[Corbet]

I’m going to bump up to 37’s this spring as I need new summer tires. Who has moved their axles forward to prevent the rubbing at the back of the wheel well. Talking about only +/- 1” at the rear radius arm mount on the frame rail?

I should probably add, I’m running pretty much a complete Slee 4” set up with his caster plate correction. My bumps are lowered a little already. Probably have to trim the wings of the ARB bumper.

 

[Notyourmomslx450]

Mine is moved forward, but i'm 3 linked up front.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Adam Tolman posted a good thread of him doing it on Mud if that helps:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/box-rocket-1995-fzj80-build.826413/page-35

 

[jps8460]

I moved mine an inch forward and the diff cover just barely contacts the panhard bar and full compression. My springs are a little grumpy, and I had to go back and trim the edge off of the bump stop cup. I’m on a 2.5” lift and 39’s

 

[nakman]

..... I’m on a 2.5” lift and 39’s

wait.. what??!!!

 

[rover67]

sawzall!

 

[aprosise]

wait.. what??!!!

2.5" lift, 39's and 47 sawzall blades

 

[Corbet]

Adam Tolman posted a good thread of him doing it on Mud if that helps:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/box-rocket-1995-fzj80-build.826413/page-35

Thanks, that was perfect. I tried searching MUD but its sooooo diluted now its sometimes a waste of time. I'll message Adam after a more in depth read.

I might also see if I can test fit some 37's off another local truck to see how bad mine rubs currently in the stock location. Sara Powers has some big fat 37x13.5" Toyos. If those are even closet to clearing I should be even better with 12.5's. Right now I'm leaning towards the Graber X3's

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

No problem! The search function in Mud does suck. That's why I get tire of people who always ask, "Did you try the search function?" Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but the only way I'm ever successful at finding anything on there is using Google and finishing the query with ih8mud. Even then it takes forever to sort through all of the muckety muck.

 

[NateMob]

1" is the most you'll want to move it forward. Even going to 30mm with 37s like Adam did only gives you more headache clearancing the front of the wheelwell and core support. Remember your axle swings in an arc so as your tire stuffs it moves further away from the firewall.

BTW those 37x13.5 Toyos are 94lbs a piece!

 

[AxleIke]

I like this thread very much!

 

[ccslider]

I bet if you contact deltavs on mud they will make you longer arms.

 

[Corbet]

I bet if you contact deltavs on mud they will make you longer arms.

Sure but those will be like $1000 to my door without bushings. I could press mine out as they are pretty new. But still... and my caster is already corrected and welded in hard. There is no removing those with serious housing surgery.

I do want the DeltaV panhard brackets though. I have adjustable panhards but that is a give take of course.

 

[nakman]

what if you got some 40" PBR's.. they'll self-clearance, then with the 39's you'll have room to spare.

are you going to 5.29?

 

[Corbet]

what if you got some 40" PBR's.. they'll self-clearance, then with the 39's you'll have room to spare.

are you going to 5.29?

No but I'm going to 7psi

I already have 4.88's and 37's should be damned near spot on with speedo. (so back to stock overall gearing)

Probably do transfer gears this summer too

 

[jps8460]

Here’s what I did. Eventually it will be welded in.

 

[ccslider]

Wheeling you say? I like wheeling... Where at?

Sure but those will be like $1000 to my door without bushings. I could press mine out as they are pretty new. But still... and my caster is already corrected and welded in hard. There is no removing those with serious housing surgery.

I do want the DeltaV panhard brackets though. I have adjustable panhards but that is a give take of course.

Well maybe.. but takes the thinking out.

I didn't know about your setup. Sounds like surgery either way.

 

[LandBruiser]

No problem! The search function in Mud does suck. That's why I get tire of people who always ask, "Did you try the search function?" Maybe I'm doing it wrong, but the only way I'm ever successful at finding anything on there is using Google and finishing the query with ih8mud. Even then it takes forever to sort through all of the muckety muck.

I think it's cause it automatically reverts to most recent, when you need to "go advanced" and hit the relevance button rather than the most recent.

I’m going to bump up to 37’s this spring as I need new summer tires. Who has moved their axles forward to prevent the rubbing at the back of the wheel well. Talking about only +/- 1” at the rear radius arm mount on the frame rail?

I should probably add, I’m running pretty much a complete Slee 4” set up with his caster plate correction. My bumps are lowered a little already. Probably have to trim the wings of the ARB bumper.

You can fit those 37's without moving the axle. A tiny bit of precise cutting goes a long way!

 

[LARGEONE]

I like that, Jackson....washer mod on the rear of the control arm! Reminds me that I still need to correct my castor this year with washers at the rear side of the axle. I did the front, but its not quite enough castor...truck is all over the place. It was perfect for my OME lift, but not enough for my SLEE 4".

Dang, Corbet...you're gettin' serious, man!

 

[Corbet]

Dang, Corbet...you're gettin' serious, man!

It’s not been my daily driver since 2015. After last year’s Yellowstone trip it was clear it needs forced induction, LS swap or simply walk away and into a 200. I love the 80 series platform too much so after much deliberation I decided forced induction. I’m going to install the Wits-End turbo system once it’s available. I figure my truck spends more time over 10,000’ than under 5000’ so the turbo should prove to be as strong if not stronger than an LS most of the time for me. Plus it’s cheaper than a turn key LS swap even after I rebuild the 1FZ. If I can pull off a 100 series auto swap at the same time I’d like that too. It’s got a lower 1st gear plus the extra gear would make it much easier to keep her in the sweet spot pulling mountain passes.