other than a suck down, what can be done about the front when it want's to unload???
Most of my friends w/ linked Jeeps just have an attachment point on the axle and just use their winch to suck it down.
76 FJ40 Wheeler Build
- Thread starter Danger Noodle
- Start date
Most of my friends w/ linked Jeeps just have an attachment point on the axle and just use their winch to suck it down.
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
It's mostly geometry. under 100% anti-dive should help a lot, and there are a few tricks to force the suspension to compress when under acceleration. It's going to be interesting to see, as my frame-side mount for the upper link is adjustable, so I should be able to go from over 100% anti-dive to about 70%. I'm hoping that that will have some major results, but who knows.
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J Kimmel
Hard Core 4+
It looks fantastic
J Kimmel
Hard Core 4+
Tough to get the geometry right with a body, you get “close enough.” My old one was like that, it climbed well but not amazing. New tube chassis has good geometry so I don’t need a suck down on much but the biggest of climbs and even then only for a moment.
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
Thanks. Do you have any recommendations for front anti-dive numbers I should shoot for? I'm thinking somewhere around 60%-70%, but do you have any thoughts? I'm at about 120% right now and can change that. I'd prefer to not have to run a suckdown and get the geometry as close as possible.
J Kimmel
Hard Core 4+
My front is about 90% rear is 110%
try to keep your lowers as flat as possible.
it’s really tough with a body!
unless your front really sucks (I doubt it) I’d say you have a really nice truck that will do 98% of everything you want perfectly
alao consider how many big climbs you think it’ll realistically see
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
The front is scary light on big climbs. It doesn't even feel like it is there. I can get some massive wheel stands, though.
J Kimmel
Hard Core 4+
I’d try some adjustments then. You want it to be predictable and stable but most importantly be fun
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
Man, I'm really bad about updating this thread.
Late September I went to the Liberty Toyota 4x4 meetup and met some pretty cool people. I also went out and took some pictures with both my dad and I's 40s.
Late September I went to the Liberty Toyota 4x4 meetup and met some pretty cool people. I also went out and took some pictures with both my dad and I's 40s.
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
I just got back from SEMA, and had a blast there with the guys from work.
Here is the album if anyone is interested.
In other news, I'm selling the 40. I'm going to be doing a SEMA Young Guns build with help from Jeremiah and the shop, and I need funds for that. I'll be keeping it until Cruise Moab this year, and then it is gone.
Anyways, just a little update for you all.
Here is the album if anyone is interested.
In other news, I'm selling the 40. I'm going to be doing a SEMA Young Guns build with help from Jeremiah and the shop, and I need funds for that. I'll be keeping it until Cruise Moab this year, and then it is gone.
Anyways, just a little update for you all.
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
Well, I'm back for winter break, so it's cruiser time. I never added finished interior pictures (to this thread at least), so here are a few.
I stuck a new tune on the cruiser to hopefully gain a bunch more efficiency and power from the stock sniper tune.
Here is what I ended up with.
The acceleration is much better, as is throttle response under load. I guess I'll have to see about the economy since I only have about 20 miles on this tune.
I'm pretty sure my timing was way too advanced for the quick burn Vortec heads, which like around 30 - 34 degrees at cruise. I had no pinging, but there is a super noticeable throttle response difference since the engine isn't fighting itself on every power stroke any more.
AFR went from 13.5 -> 14.4 at idle, 14.0 -> 16.0 at cruise, and stayed at 12.5 WOT. One of my friends is running these numbers on a very similar 350 in a K2500, and seeing around 18 MPG not towing. I'm hoping for similar results.
In other news, I want to link the rear on this, but my rear driveshaft is too short to get any meaningful travel, so I'm probably going to be selling this setup and go diesel if anyone is interested.
forum.ih8mud.com
I stuck a new tune on the cruiser to hopefully gain a bunch more efficiency and power from the stock sniper tune.
Here is what I ended up with.
The acceleration is much better, as is throttle response under load. I guess I'll have to see about the economy since I only have about 20 miles on this tune.
I'm pretty sure my timing was way too advanced for the quick burn Vortec heads, which like around 30 - 34 degrees at cruise. I had no pinging, but there is a super noticeable throttle response difference since the engine isn't fighting itself on every power stroke any more.
AFR went from 13.5 -> 14.4 at idle, 14.0 -> 16.0 at cruise, and stayed at 12.5 WOT. One of my friends is running these numbers on a very similar 350 in a K2500, and seeing around 18 MPG not towing. I'm hoping for similar results.
In other news, I want to link the rear on this, but my rear driveshaft is too short to get any meaningful travel, so I'm probably going to be selling this setup and go diesel if anyone is interested.
For Sale - (FEELER POST) (CO) 1200 Mile Complete, Running, Drivetrain. 383 Stroker, NV4500, Marlin Toybox, 34MM Split Case
As some of you may know, I just recently finished my 40, and I already am feeling like it is time for some changes, mainly in the suspension. I'm wanting to link the rear, but my driveline is too long to get any effective link system in there, so I am looking to change. My loss is your gain, I...
J Kimmel
Hard Core 4+
What are you going to switch to
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
Probably an R2.8, something auto, 3:1 split case. I need about 5"+ of driveline to get this to work.
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
It's been a longggg while.
Alright, update time!
I've been working out a new drivetrain for this, and I think that I finally have come to a resolution. I really want to do something different, modern, turbo'd, and very driveable, kinda like @Godfather90 has with his TDI. I'm also wanting to go auto for the driveability and crawling. I know I discussed this a bit earlier, but anyway, here is what I'm thinking.
Diesel seems like a good option, but I don't want to have to deal with one in the cold at school. It is averaging around -20 - -30 from Dec to February, and I don't really have the option to plug it in.
I also want something relatively efficient, so smaller displacement and a smaller block to fit better in a 40.
So, what have I found with those requirements? GM has a very niche little lineup in a few select Cadillac models, mainly the ATS and CTS - V lineups. They are Twin Turbo, 3.6 liter v6 engines mated to 6l90s, 8l90s, and 8l45s. The LF4 and LF3 are extremely power-dense engines, making 455 HP and 445 TQ and 420 HP and 430 TQ respectively. They have manifold-based water-to-air intercoolers, which is great, as I don't have to shove a massive air-to-air intercooler in front of a 40.
I'm planning on using an LF4, as it came with the 8l90 from the factory. This means I can directly mate an Atlas transfer case to the trans, solving that issue.
There are several other features of the LF4, including an extremely overbuilt bottom end, featuring forged everything and titanium connecting rods, sleeved cylinders, DOHC, and twin scroll chargers that do not add any width to the block and offer no-lag boost. People have been pushing 700+ WHP with the stock bottom end on this engine.
I have been talking to a few different guys that have swapped and created standalone LF4s. It is very doable with minimal harness modification, and an ECU flash with HP tuners. It's a pretty rare swap, but they have been getting great economy and power out of this engine.
Anyways, I know the 8l90 has some problems, but a factory trans and engine is what I believe is the best thing possible for reliability and driveability. I'm planning on either adding paddles or a bump shifter to the trans, giving full control over it.
So, I would love to hear your guy's thoughts on this swap. I get that it will be pretty difficult, but I want to try something different, and hopefully get a super fun swap out of it.
Alright, update time!
I've been working out a new drivetrain for this, and I think that I finally have come to a resolution. I really want to do something different, modern, turbo'd, and very driveable, kinda like @Godfather90 has with his TDI. I'm also wanting to go auto for the driveability and crawling. I know I discussed this a bit earlier, but anyway, here is what I'm thinking.
Diesel seems like a good option, but I don't want to have to deal with one in the cold at school. It is averaging around -20 - -30 from Dec to February, and I don't really have the option to plug it in.
I also want something relatively efficient, so smaller displacement and a smaller block to fit better in a 40.
So, what have I found with those requirements? GM has a very niche little lineup in a few select Cadillac models, mainly the ATS and CTS - V lineups. They are Twin Turbo, 3.6 liter v6 engines mated to 6l90s, 8l90s, and 8l45s. The LF4 and LF3 are extremely power-dense engines, making 455 HP and 445 TQ and 420 HP and 430 TQ respectively. They have manifold-based water-to-air intercoolers, which is great, as I don't have to shove a massive air-to-air intercooler in front of a 40.
I'm planning on using an LF4, as it came with the 8l90 from the factory. This means I can directly mate an Atlas transfer case to the trans, solving that issue.
There are several other features of the LF4, including an extremely overbuilt bottom end, featuring forged everything and titanium connecting rods, sleeved cylinders, DOHC, and twin scroll chargers that do not add any width to the block and offer no-lag boost. People have been pushing 700+ WHP with the stock bottom end on this engine.
I have been talking to a few different guys that have swapped and created standalone LF4s. It is very doable with minimal harness modification, and an ECU flash with HP tuners. It's a pretty rare swap, but they have been getting great economy and power out of this engine.
Anyways, I know the 8l90 has some problems, but a factory trans and engine is what I believe is the best thing possible for reliability and driveability. I'm planning on either adding paddles or a bump shifter to the trans, giving full control over it.
So, I would love to hear your guy's thoughts on this swap. I get that it will be pretty difficult, but I want to try something different, and hopefully get a super fun swap out of it.
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
New coilovers for the rear. King 2.0, 12", with compression adjusters. I'm planning on a 1:1.2 rear cantilever suspension and mounting these laterally in the wheel wells. Should give me about 14" of rear travel, without cutting my floor.
Went to Cruise Moab. Led and Gunned a few trails. Was a ton of fun.
This fell out after my last run on saturday.
I'm back at the shop for the summer, and this showed up. 2016 LF4 and 8l90. Current dimensions foe the LF4 I have taken are around 24" long, 30" tall, about 30" wide. 8l90 is about 23" long.
Compared to a 8hp80 and R2.8
LF4 8l90 combo is about the same length, about 4" wider for the engine.
Went to Cruise Moab. Led and Gunned a few trails. Was a ton of fun.
This fell out after my last run on saturday.
I'm back at the shop for the summer, and this showed up. 2016 LF4 and 8l90. Current dimensions foe the LF4 I have taken are around 24" long, 30" tall, about 30" wide. 8l90 is about 23" long.
Compared to a 8hp80 and R2.8
LF4 8l90 combo is about the same length, about 4" wider for the engine.
@Danger Noodle -- did you swap your drive train yet?
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
Most of the way, yes.
Harness time. Pretty easy to pull, a few connectors were a bit of a pain, but it all came off in about two hours.
Well, it fits, really, well. The floor may need to move up a little for the atlas, and my upper link needs to swap sides, but I have over 6" to the front of the radiator and condenser, and just as much to the firewall.
A quick timing cover change
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
Motor mounts plas'd out on the table.
All welded.
Engine vanity cover.
Cooler stack.
Intercooler tabs.
Done! It all bolts together, just need to figure out location and mount it once the engine is in.
My condenser will bolt up to the tabs on the upper and lower covers.
Pretty good day today.
*excited monkey noises*
It fits like it was meant to be.
Full access to run the exhaust, which is a massive win, cause I wasn't sure if that was going to be possible.
I'll build the power steering pump brackets tomorrow.
Remote reservoir is just about perfect, I'll get that mounted as well.
I goofed on the rad mount a bit and ended up a bit wide, so that will get a trimming to fit.
All welded.
Engine vanity cover.
Cooler stack.
Intercooler tabs.
Done! It all bolts together, just need to figure out location and mount it once the engine is in.
My condenser will bolt up to the tabs on the upper and lower covers.
Pretty good day today.
*excited monkey noises*
It fits like it was meant to be.
Full access to run the exhaust, which is a massive win, cause I wasn't sure if that was going to be possible.
I'll build the power steering pump brackets tomorrow.
Remote reservoir is just about perfect, I'll get that mounted as well.
I goofed on the rad mount a bit and ended up a bit wide, so that will get a trimming to fit.
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
Danger Noodle
Trail Ready
A quick oil change.
And then this happened.
No MAP, MAF, or O2s, but it ran! Need to get the trans lines made so it doesn't spit oil out, but it runs!
Atomic-cool trans cooler mounted.
Trans lines cut and flared. Need to get 1/2 hose.
Start on the air box. I love aluminum.
Air filter fits great. It's an AEM Dryflow, like I always run. Should theoretically flow about 2x the necessary volume for this engine.
Inital test fit of the box.
Mounts cut out and dimple died.
Tucks in nicely.
I'm not sure if I like the lid.
First intake tube mocked in.
First hole cut.
Driver side tube
MAF Bungs.
Done! Lots of bungs that had to be welded.
ARB manifold mount.
Fits awesome, everything clears.
All that is left is the ECM / TCM mount, and P/S resi.
I didn't like the airbox lid so I remade it.
Much better.
And then this happened.
No MAP, MAF, or O2s, but it ran! Need to get the trans lines made so it doesn't spit oil out, but it runs!
Atomic-cool trans cooler mounted.
Trans lines cut and flared. Need to get 1/2 hose.
Start on the air box. I love aluminum.
Air filter fits great. It's an AEM Dryflow, like I always run. Should theoretically flow about 2x the necessary volume for this engine.
Inital test fit of the box.
Mounts cut out and dimple died.
Tucks in nicely.
I'm not sure if I like the lid.
First intake tube mocked in.
First hole cut.
Driver side tube
MAF Bungs.
Done! Lots of bungs that had to be welded.
ARB manifold mount.
Fits awesome, everything clears.
All that is left is the ECM / TCM mount, and P/S resi.
I didn't like the airbox lid so I remade it.
Much better.