1973 FJ40 build

Shark Bait

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Way cool guys. What's all that spaghetti? :D
 

timmbuck2

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MDH33

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Absolutely no idea. Wanna come help figger it out? ;)

T

Timm, I can bring my 40 over sometime if you want compare. I have essentially the same setup. De-smogged 2F mated to a 3speed. (it passes emissions without any smog gear). The only difference is that I have an earlier carb.
 

timmbuck2

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Timm, I can bring my 40 over sometime if you want compare. I have essentially the same setup. De-smogged 2F mated to a 3speed. (it passes emissions without any smog gear). The only difference is that I have an earlier carb.

Please!!! Would love to compare and take pics....anytime!!
 

timmbuck2

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To-Do List for Moab: (only 4 working weekends for me)

-Get Engine Running and desmogged.
-driveshafts
-exhaust
-check and probably overhaul brakes
-maybe..swap in FJ55 axles...rear locker (no brake cylinders right now) and front disc brakes...which would mean more brake work
-hopefully install lift and front locker
-sliders. IF SROR is not too swamped. :)
-seats
-gas tank
-1 afternoon to paint the fender I stripped and various other touch ups
-new tires


Oh, and my kitchen remodel is not quite done.

Oh, any my wife is 3 months pregnant.

Oh, and work is crazy.



So what again does my 80 need for Moab? Nothing really.........

T
 

timmbuck2

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Rzeppa

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To-Do List for Moab: (only 4 working weekends for me)

-Get Engine Running and desmogged.

check

-driveshafts

Since you didn't do the 4 speed conversion, you should be able to just bolt up your old ones


check - Note that OEM muffler/tailpipe is (was) still avaiable from dealer for about the same (inexpensive) $$ as aftermarket muffler shops, and it bolts right up!

-check and probably overhaul brakes

check

-maybe..swap in FJ55 axles...rear locker (no brake cylinders right now) and front disc brakes...which would mean more brake work

fuggetaboutit. Not enough time

-hopefully install lift and front locker

Not necessary AND not enough time with the rest of the list

-sliders. IF SROR is not too swamped. :)

Don't really need 'em on a 40 - that's mainly a wagon thing


check - Make Ricardo buy you some $10 covers where he ripped the old ones ;-)

-gas tank

check

-1 afternoon to paint the fender I stripped and various other touch ups

check - less than a whole afternoon to shoot some quickie rattle can primer on it. You can come back and do it up nice after rust repair, right?

-new tires

maybe - size is more important than tread on the slickrock. Put that down the list some :)

Oh, and my kitchen remodel is not quite done.

Restart that the weekend after Moab :)

Oh, any my wife is 3 months pregnant.

Is she coming to Moab with you and Ty?

Oh, and work is crazy.

That's one of the things Moab is for - fuggetaboutit!
 

nuclearlemon

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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmbuck2
-maybe..swap in FJ55 axles...rear locker (no brake cylinders right now) and front disc brakes...which would mean more brake work

fuggetaboutit. Not enough time
i gotta disagree there. before you do driveline, just swap the rear pumpkin (if you're hustling, figure about an hour, two if you're screwing off). the front axle swap complete, before you do the brakes since you'll have the brake lines off and you'll be pulling a valve out of the master cylinder, and buy a set of ubolts ahead of time ($60-75). figure on about three hours since getting the spring center pins to line up often requires a come along between the springs. ;)
 

Hulk

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Don't really need 'em on a 40 - that's mainly a wagon thing

SLIDERS: I agree with Jeff...for Moab.

Before you run the rock garden at Spring Creek, make sure you have sliders for your 40. Unlike Bill Morgan, you can ask me how I know. :rolleyes:
 

Shark Bait

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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmbuck2
-maybe..swap in FJ55 axles...rear locker (no brake cylinders right now) and front disc brakes...which would mean more brake work

fuggetaboutit. Not enough time
i gotta disagree there. before you do driveline, just swap the rear pumpkin (if you're hustling, figure about an hour, two if you're screwing off). the front axle swap complete, before you do the brakes since you'll have the brake lines off and you'll be pulling a valve out of the master cylinder, and buy a set of ubolts ahead of time ($60-75). figure on about three hours since getting the spring center pins to line up often requires a come along between the springs. ;)

I've got extra dual brake lines for a 40 if you want them. Then all you would need is a booster and dual master. I've also got a set of replacement disc brake pads I just bought off Nakman for $20, if you want those too.

You still want that bumper? ;)
 

Rzeppa

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Then all you would need is a booster and dual master.

His 73 already has booster and dual master.

But dealing with axles, FDB conversion and suspension would be WAY too much to bite off on that particular rig given the time constraints.

Get the engine running first! Getting the rig driving first! There are plenty of potential time-sinks right there.
 

Rzeppa

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i gotta disagree there. before you do driveline, just swap the rear pumpkin (if you're hustling, figure about an hour, two if you're screwing off). the front axle swap complete, before you do the brakes since you'll have the brake lines off and you'll be pulling a valve out of the master cylinder, and buy a set of ubolts ahead of time ($60-75). figure on about three hours since getting the spring center pins to line up often requires a come along between the springs. ;)


Ige, I have to disagree with you on this particular project on this particular rig. With 4 weekends, wife and small child, I would pare this down to get 'er running and driving first. There will be tons of debugging involved here. Adding time for axle swaps doesn't look like it's in the cards, unless we as a club, go down there each of those 4 weekends and have 3-4 pairs of experienced hands on deck to make all that happen.

It's possible, but I wouldn't plan around it. Just my advice.
 

MDH33

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Are there any problems with the stock axles and brakes? I would leave it stock for now and get it running well as Jeff suggested. You'll have a blast in Moab with a stock 40. :thumb:

I have spare '73 driveshafts if you need some.

You can order all new OEM brake parts to do a full service cheaper than you might think. I did my '73 this fall in an afternoon, replaced all the shoes, turned the drums, replaced the wheel cylinders and added aftermarket stainless braided lines. Once adjusted properly, the drums work great.
 

timmbuck2

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First of all let me say :bowdown::bowdown::bowdown:

:risingsun:

Damn...thanks everyone. The advice, help, support, etc you guys give to me and other is just plain amazing. :)


OK, so my revised to-do list, in order of priority:

1. Get Engine Running and desmogged. I will start this tonight and tomorrow night...out of town this weekend but could use an experienced set of eyeballs next week or next weekend. Did I mention beer? :beer: :D

2. Driveshafts. Hmm...I have a few lying around...only think 1 came with the 73. Martin, I will take you up on your offer!

3. exhaust. Jeff said "check - Note that OEM muffler/tailpipe is (was) still avaiable from dealer for about the same (inexpensive) $$ as aftermarket muffler shops, and it bolts right up!" So I just give Stevinson or CDan a call and order it up??

4. check and overhaul brakes. another call to Stevinson or CDan and have beer as a bribe for help. :)

5. gas tank. have a couple. need to take to Denver Radiator (?) and have them checked and maybe boiled and sealed.

6. seats. have 2 yucky pairs of seats. If Ricardo had not ripped them to shreds... :rolleyes:

7. tires. Guess I could use the ones I have for Moab...


THIS would get me to Moab....hopefully...and of course registration and smog. No problem, right Ige? :rolleyes:

IF I can get all that done...

1. Either move locker from FJ55 axle to the 40 or throw on the whole axle. Would involve some more brake work as that axles has the brakes stripped. No hurry for the front disc brake axle as that would add a lot more time.

2. lift

3. front locker

4. sliders. if SROR has some that are ready quickly, cool. If not, won't worry about it.



Can work on the kitchen remodel with Ty running around...they are NOT coming to Moab...and work will just have to calm down.



Again...CANNOT thank everyone enough. I am so psyched to get the 40 running AND learning all this stuff I can pass on to other newbies...like Ricardo. :)

:thumb:

T
 

timmbuck2

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Quote:
Originally Posted by timmbuck2
-maybe..swap in FJ55 axles...rear locker (no brake cylinders right now) and front disc brakes...which would mean more brake work

fuggetaboutit. Not enough time

I've got extra dual brake lines for a 40 if you want them. Then all you would need is a booster and dual master. I've also got a set of replacement disc brake pads I just bought off Nakman for $20, if you want those too.

You still want that bumper? ;)


Yes to all of the above please. :)

T
 

subzali

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Seems to me that some of the cylinders from the 55 were frozen...
Swapping the Lockright doesn't take much time at all, couple hours.

But get the truck running and registered first!
 

nakman

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IMO, you should table the locker. Learn to drive the truck open first, you'll be a much better driver in the long run.
 

nuclearlemon

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6. seats. have 2 yucky pairs of seats. If Ricardo had not ripped them to shreds... :rolleyes:

seat covers ;)


THIS would get me to Moab....hopefully...and of course registration and smog. No problem, right Ige? :rolleyes:

don't even get me started. i just emailed gary holbrook at the colorado dept of revenue because aircare is denying my claim because there's wear where the safety latch catches...the safety latch isn't the issue. long story...it will be detailed on my thread on mud.


1. Either move locker from FJ55 axle to the 40 or throw on the whole axle. Would involve some more brake work as that axles has the brakes stripped. No hurry for the front disc brake axle as that would add a lot more time.
i wouldn't move the whole axle, just the locker or the diff.
 

wesintl

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Great Job so far Tim :thumb:
 
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