allen.wrench
Rising Sun Member
Nice. Iridium? How many miles?
I'm looking at getting a hybrid Corolla which I expect will be a similar setup
Allen
What have you done to your rig today?
- Thread starter HoneyBadger
- Start date
I'm looking at getting a hybrid Corolla which I expect will be a similar setup
Allen
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
Just did the spark plugs for the first time on the LC250. Easiest vehicle I’ve done plugs on. #1-3 you can even leave the coil packs connected. #4 you need to disconnect so you can rotate the coil 180° to clear the hybrid harness.
#2 seemed to have oil on the threads. Took a little more effort to remove. An extra long plug socket is handy. I still used a 6” extension. Picked up a full set of plug sockets from the Cornwell truck. On sale and I’ll need the Subaru one soon.
#4 clearance. Still easy.
Goodness Corbet you've been doing maintenance on that thing way ahead of what my owner's manual says. I am at just under 16k miles and am looking forward to my second oil change at 20k miles per my owner's manual. Are you supposed to change the plugs this soon? My wife's Yaris and her RAV4 are both saying 100k miles. Both my 40s say every 10k miles but that was the interval back in the 70s.
Read the manual but yes. Plugs every 40K and list price is only $43 per plug.
Last edited:
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
Read the manual but yes. Plugs every 40K and list price is only $43 per plug.
Sure enough, 40k miles. Footnote 5. says it's for the emissions control warranty.
If you look at my photo the insulators are toast. Might be better to change at 30K? I had 12,000 miles of towing on these. I'll probably wait until 80K to do it again but if they look the same I'll move to 30K intervals. My 1FZ-FTE plugs didn't look near as bad last change (38,000 miles).
I drove my 80 to work today 
Capriblue45
Rising Sun Member
- Joined
- May 28, 2023
- Messages
- 582
Doing a once over on the 60 before the drive to Cruiserfest for the weekend.
FJCDan
Rising Sun Member
Working on an NWF EcoCrawler install on a 1st gen tacoma. The build and install has taken me 2x longer than I expected, but getting there!
So many shifters! Triple shift seems like a great idea until you have to make sure everything clears everything else!
So many shifters! Triple shift seems like a great idea until you have to make sure everything clears everything else!
Oneops
Trail Ready
- Joined
- May 12, 2021
- Messages
- 313
Just got done with those minus the ball joints last weekend. Thinking upper jba arms but trying to figure out if I can run them stock height as we aren’t lift yet. Have new lower bj’s ready to go. Done arm bushings yet?Finally got some work done on my runner a couple of weeks ago. Lower ball joints, inner and outer tie rod ends, steering rack bushings. And a new set Faulken wildpeak 255-85-16 All Terrain AT4W
tires.
HoneyBadger
Rising Sun Member
I've got the same setup sitting in my office.Working on an NWF EcoCrawler install on a 1st gen tacoma. The build and install has taken me 2x longer than I expected, but getting there!
So many shifters! Triple shift seems like a great idea until you have to make sure everything clears everything else!
Planning on getting started with it once winter sets in and there's nothing better to do.
Any major pitfalls I should avoid?
@HoneyBadger - NWF makes a pretty nice machined case unit and input shaft! The instructions are decent and I think they try really hard to be thorough, but I'm a dummy and could have used more information on torque specs. I feel like there is a lot of "feel" with the fasteners.
Seeing what you've built, I think you'll get through easier than me. But some things I noticed along the way:
There are a lot of videos out there with "how to" information, but many jump right in without realizing they should be working on the rear case first. There was one decent one I'll see if I can find it. It helped my confidence on the project having a video in addition to NWF's instructions. I can't believe NWF doesn't have a video that they've produced to give a 1000 foot view - I think it would help a lot of prospective customers.
If you have your OE e-brake setup, you will have to be careful how much you clock the rear case, and you'll need to bend the brake pivot bracket slightly for clearance. If you don't have clearance issues there, you could clock much more, but I don't really believe you could max out clocking and still get the trident shifter to work, but I didn't experiment because I wanted to retain OE e-brake. I clocked a modest amount.
The one big mistake I made is that I overtightened the bolt behind the detent pin that locks the big ring gear in place. This forced the ring gear out of round ever so slightly. It wasn't evident untilI had both cases together and the shaft rotation was sticky. I had to tear the front case apart multiple times and use an additional donor case parts set to isolate my issue among the planetary, the ring gear, etc. So don't be a hamfist on that one. Doh.
Otherwise, I'm still waiting on driveshafts to come back, so we'll see how it goes! I hope any of that helps.
@HoneyBadger here's the video that helped me visualize what I was getting into before way ahead of time: