IH8RUST
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Ayye, I just saw your post on Mud. What material did you use? I got the Eastwood seam sealer, but also bought 3M 08365 Beige.
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IH8RUST: FJ60
- Thread starter IH8RUST
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RDub
Trail Ready
Maybe get a look at another 60 hood first. You like to keep things looking factory.
KC Masterpiece
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Yep. Thats what mine looks like.Found it. I think they had one too many beers.
I just grabbed whatever seam sealer NAPA had available.
RDub
Trail Ready
I thought the sealant gets applied prior to paint at the factory. Do you have touch up paint to color match after applying it? I know it will be under the insulation pad and out of sight…
IH8RUST
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Same. Seam sealer goes on after epoxy, then the paint. My old hood had it on top of the paint and nothing stops you from applying over the new paint, just looks ugly.
I’ve got about a quart of the red, can buy more locally since I have the exact code and brand as well. That said, the foam isn’t paintable, so I’ll just apply conservatively and not fuss over it once covered.
I’ve got about a quart of the red, can buy more locally since I have the exact code and brand as well. That said, the foam isn’t paintable, so I’ll just apply conservatively and not fuss over it once covered.
KC Masterpiece
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If you want it to look truly awful...
4 beers and then do it upside down with the hood on the vehicle.
RDub
Trail Ready
My 60 hood has the factory adhesive, but it’s no longer stuck together. It makes an awful sound when I close the hood, I just hate it. Need to reglue it someday. That and rebuild the t-case, get a better transmission, rebuild the engine…
I'm pretty sure the FSM says: "You need 5 beers before you install adhesive upside-down with the hood installed."
IH8RUST
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Safe to say, I'm not looking for total period correctness; that's pursuing perfection when none even existed out of the factory floor back then. Heck, probably more perfect now than before? Tooting my own horn.
I'm sure they sort of knew the compound's longevity when they originally installed it, they probably didn't have the benchmarks to know for sure. Use the foam, cover it up, and enjoy the rig.
The transmission part feels like a solved problem if you've got the cash. Pay George in Stockton, and he'll slap the T-Case on that H55F; masterful work. That was my shortcut. The alternative is to do it yourself, and I recall you have the chops for it, so it's a matter of "how quick do you want it back on the road?" versus "I want to wear the rebuild as a badge of honor." There's a part of me that wishes I had the patience, but I'm not, and I want it now, even now is 1 year in the making from the time I got it back from Cruisers and Co, and six months from the body and paint work, it's all relative. Perhaps a topic best suited for my therapist.
Some of our peers, ehem, @Capriblue45, have the superpowers to do it all. I'm jealous.
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IH8RUST
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I truly wish the diagrams were just a tad bit better, so I wouldn't have to ask. I used a caliper to measure, went online searching, the kit didn't include a fit, kept searching on the parts websites, nope, can't identify, I feel dumb.
Gave up, asked on Mud. Part number for the grommet is: 90189-05012
Gave up, asked on Mud. Part number for the grommet is: 90189-05012
IH8RUST
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Bought all new sets of rubber seals. Slowly putting the pieces back together. Decided the lower liftgate could use a seal on the lip, turned out pretty decent, it'll help avoid paint chips. The upper liftgate has two parts: the bottom and the top. Doing the top seal while it's mounted is a bit of a chore. Also, ended up replacing the 12mm mount nuts all the way around. In hindsight, it made sense to replace before painting to maintain consistency; lesson learned.
The cool part is that when I shut the gates, there's a smooth, closing sound.
The cool part is that when I shut the gates, there's a smooth, closing sound.
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RDub
Trail Ready
How is your old one? If it’s straight I’d be interested.
IH8RUST
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