IH8RUST: FJ60

[IH8RUST]

Going to the cluster gauge, I got voltage on the harness. Oh god, I think it’s the cluster gauge.

 

[RDub]

The connector contacts often oxidize causing the cluster to become a cluster. As you know there are many pins and mating sockets. Mine was acting up and a careful cleaning with de-ox it and mild abrasive fixed it. Worth a try.

 

[IH8RUST]

Lots of debugging, it’s a bad ground somewhere. Now where?

 

[IH8RUST]

The connector contacts often oxidize causing the cluster to become a cluster. As you know there are many pins and mating sockets. Mine was acting up and a careful cleaning with de-ox it and mild abrasive fixed it. Worth a try.

I ended up using wire brush to clean the connectors while I have it pulled out!

 

[IH8RUST]

Sitrep, I'm tired.

Went down the usual rabbit holes first: replaced the dimmer rheostat, replaced the headlight switch, pulled the cluster, and inspected the printed circuit (traces were fine). Meter read ~12V everywhere, so I kept chasing "where's the power going?" That was the trap.

What actually cracked it:

• A DMM will happily show 12V through a dead or high-resistance connection because it draws almost no current. Switched to using an LED as a load tester, and that told the truth: power was real all the way up to the cluster.
• The HVAC illumination was dead too, which meant it wasn't the cluster.
• Turns out it was the GROUND, not power. On these, the panel illumination grounds back through the dimmer. The bulbs had +12V the whole time; they just had no path to ground. Touching the bulb-return pin to bare metal instantly lit the whole dash. Ugh.

Root cause: bad/intermittent ground at the dimmer connector. I'm still unclear why this is happening now. The kicker: the factory rheostat barely dims LEDs anyway, so it was never doing much. I'm trying to convince myself of that much.

I have a couple of fixes in mind:

• Free version: bypass the dimmer and permanently bond the bulb-return wire to the ground wire (solder + heat-shrink). Dash and HVAC come on full bright every time. Yay (?)
• I still want dimming back with LEDs? Need to find a high-side PWM dimmer, but then I have to figure out how to house and mount it with OEM. Breaks my heart not having the knob, so I want to see if I can hack something together.

And for my lesson of the day:

• "Works, then doesn't, same steps" = an intermittent connection, every time.
• Don't trust meter voltage on a loose wire; load-test with an LED or test light.
• Sort out whether it's a power OR ground problem before swapping parts. Giving the circuit its own ground during testing can mask a faulty factory ground.
• Stock rheostats don't dim LEDs, go PWM/high-side. I still don't fully understand why the F the whole thing worked before, and now it doesn't.

 

[IH8RUST]

Installed the new seatbelt from the planet. They’re really, really nice.

 

[IH8RUST]

Before.



Since I have it out, wet sanded with 5000-10000, then used the Chemical Guys V38 with a wool pad to polish the glass. It buffed out most of the hairline scratches, gave it a nice clear shine.

Going to attempt to paint the bezel, waiting on the paint to arrive.

 

[IH8RUST]

I don't know why, but I hadn't even given the vapor barrier a thought until I was watching this guy's latest episode, and BAM, vapor barrier. Need to find something for the doors.

 

[IH8RUST]

Got myself a PWM dimmer. Running tests on battery and ignition and I have LEDs with a dimmer. Now, I have to retrofit.



Using this one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01ERR7E4Q?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 - requires no rewiring for those interested.

 

[IH8RUST]

The tiniest grommets to get the scoops back on there. Why it had to be different than all others remains a mystery to me.

 

[IH8RUST]

Looks way better coated. It'll do.

 

[IH8RUST]

Finished. Imperfections, included.

 

[justcruisin]

Finished. Imperfections, included.

Looks perfect! Beautiful work, Will.

 

[IH8RUST]

Thanks, Sam! Came out pretty good for two hours of work, and most of that was masking the part.

• Gave the ashtrays the zinc coating treatment before I sent them off to Branden D. for the door cards. He does good work.
• Finished the frontend, replaced all the old bolts with new ones.
• Redid the connectors for the markers with the Sumitomo; now they're nice and sealed. Old wires were short; I did some splicing and saudering to extend them. On that note, LSWiring has near identical colors and gauges. I might just have to take a stab at redoing the rear harness someday.
• Repainted the ventilation in the cabin; it was wet when I took the picture, but it looks fantastic now.

 

[IH8RUST]

First wash. Yup.

 

[KC Masterpiece]

I want to start smoking again just to use a freshly zinc coated ashtray.

Damn that 60 is looking good!

Not sure if you posted on them but care to share info on those sweet battery terminals?

 

[IH8RUST]

I want to start smoking again just to use a freshly zinc coated ashtray.

Damn that 60 is looking good!

I smoke cigars, that's my excuse.

 

[IH8RUST]

Found it, nothing special, your Amazon garden variety terminals: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09GLVT5H2?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_mob_b_fed_asin_title_0_0

 

[IH8RUST]

@timmbuck2 told me to get my act together and finish the rig so I can join them on the 60 run, project planning all the interior work now, trying to figure out headliner color since I get one shot at it.

Meanwhile, found the grommets for the rocker panel. Also, those holes, they need plugs. Before I plugged them, I used the compressor to blow out stuff, about 10lbs of sandblast media. Very important things.

Installed the driver's side quarter panel emblem.

 

[IH8RUST]

I feel like I’m often thrift shopping. Gonna change the wheel sleeve to the tan color.