IH8RUST: FJ60

IH8RUST

Trail Ready
Joined
Jun 13, 2024
Messages
476
Going to the cluster gauge, I got voltage on the harness. Oh god, I think it’s the cluster gauge.

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RDub

Hard Core 4+
Joined
Feb 9, 2021
Messages
505
Location
Boulder, CO
The connector contacts often oxidize causing the cluster to become a cluster. As you know there are many pins and mating sockets. Mine was acting up and a careful cleaning with de-ox it and mild abrasive fixed it. Worth a try.
 

IH8RUST

Trail Ready
Joined
Jun 13, 2024
Messages
476
The connector contacts often oxidize causing the cluster to become a cluster. As you know there are many pins and mating sockets. Mine was acting up and a careful cleaning with de-ox it and mild abrasive fixed it. Worth a try.
I ended up using wire brush to clean the connectors while I have it pulled out!
 

IH8RUST

Trail Ready
Joined
Jun 13, 2024
Messages
476
Sitrep, I'm tired.

Went down the usual rabbit holes first: replaced the dimmer rheostat, replaced the headlight switch, pulled the cluster, and inspected the printed circuit (traces were fine). Meter read ~12V everywhere, so I kept chasing "where's the power going?" That was the trap.

What actually cracked it:
  • A DMM will happily show 12V through a dead or high-resistance connection because it draws almost no current. Switched to using an LED as a load tester, and that told the truth: power was real all the way up to the cluster.
  • The HVAC illumination was dead too, which meant it wasn't the cluster.
  • Turns out it was the GROUND, not power. On these, the panel illumination grounds back through the dimmer. The bulbs had +12V the whole time; they just had no path to ground. Touching the bulb-return pin to bare metal instantly lit the whole dash. Ugh.
Root cause: bad/intermittent ground at the dimmer connector. I'm still unclear why this is happening now. The kicker: the factory rheostat barely dims LEDs anyway, so it was never doing much. I'm trying to convince myself of that much.

I have a couple of fixes in mind:
  • Free version: bypass the dimmer and permanently bond the bulb-return wire to the ground wire (solder + heat-shrink). Dash and HVAC come on full bright every time. Yay (?)
  • I still want dimming back with LEDs? Need to find a high-side PWM dimmer, but then I have to figure out how to house and mount it with OEM. Breaks my heart not having the knob, so I want to see if I can hack something together.
And for my lesson of the day:
  • "Works, then doesn't, same steps" = an intermittent connection, every time.
  • Don't trust meter voltage on a loose wire; load-test with an LED or test light.
  • Sort out whether it's a power OR ground problem before swapping parts. Giving the circuit its own ground during testing can mask a faulty factory ground.
  • Stock rheostats don't dim LEDs, go PWM/high-side. I still don't fully understand why the F the whole thing worked before, and now it doesn't.
 

IH8RUST

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Joined
Jun 13, 2024
Messages
476
Before.

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Since I have it out, wet sanded with 5000-10000, then used the Chemical Guys V38 with a wool pad to polish the glass. It buffed out most of the hairline scratches, gave it a nice clear shine.

Going to attempt to paint the bezel, waiting on the paint to arrive.



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IH8RUST

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Jun 13, 2024
Messages
476
I don't know why, but I hadn't even given the vapor barrier a thought until I was watching this guy's latest episode, and BAM, vapor barrier. Need to find something for the doors.

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IH8RUST

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Joined
Jun 13, 2024
Messages
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The tiniest grommets to get the scoops back on there. Why it had to be different than all others remains a mystery to me.



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IH8RUST

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Joined
Jun 13, 2024
Messages
476
Thanks, Sam! Came out pretty good for two hours of work, and most of that was masking the part.
  • Gave the ashtrays the zinc coating treatment before I sent them off to Branden D. for the door cards. He does good work.
  • Finished the frontend, replaced all the old bolts with new ones.
  • Redid the connectors for the markers with the Sumitomo; now they're nice and sealed. Old wires were short; I did some splicing and saudering to extend them. On that note, LSWiring has near identical colors and gauges. I might just have to take a stab at redoing the rear harness someday.
  • Repainted the ventilation in the cabin; it was wet when I took the picture, but it looks fantastic now.


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KC Masterpiece

Hard Core 4+
Joined
May 4, 2019
Messages
2,101
I want to start smoking again just to use a freshly zinc coated ashtray.

Damn that 60 is looking good!

Not sure if you posted on them but care to share info on those sweet battery terminals?
 
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