What have you done to your rig today?

Sometimes you have to work on the other junk. Both Subaru’s getting F/R differential oil changes.

Corbet said:

Sometimes you have to work on the other junk. Both Subaru’s getting F/R differential oil changes.

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Read your comments voicing your displeasure with Subaru engineers. Be glad it isn’t an early ‘90s Jaguar. Took me eight different size wrenches to remove the radiator from a V12 XJS. Metric, SAE and Whitworth which I was able to cover with an adjustable wrench.

Crash said:

Read your comments voicing your displeasure with Subaru engineers. Be glad it isn’t an early ‘90s Jaguar. Took me eight different size wrenches to remove the radiator from a V12 XJS. Metric, SAE and Whitworth which I was able to cover with an adjustable wrench.

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Oh I know Subaru is far from the worst offender. They are easier to work in than most. The Impreza was far better than the Outback. Both rear plugs were the same and it only took two different tools up front.

Truck felt hotter wheeling in Moab at the pre-run and A/C performance was not good on-trail. Truck temp gauge did not get too hot (all 80 temp gauges have a middle "dummy" spot where it does not move much. Can be modified and I did in LongCruiser but not here). Over 30MPH A/C was comfortably cold. A/C system is in good shape.

Saturday:
Re-did the foam at sides and bottom of 80 radiator (that I should have installed when I replaced the radiator two weeks ago) and added a 2x2" piece under the A/C condenser that seems to have been something that maybe existed from the factory a million years ago (it would help more air flow through condenser when not moving) and a 2x2" piece under the radiator that also may have been from the factory a million years ago (and may help keep some engine compartment air from recirculating under and back out front. I already had the top foam that is very important to keep hot engine compartment air from recirculating. Added much thinner and more compressible foam between fan shroud and radiator.

Installed Landtank modded new fan clutch (modded to verify and slightly lower the temperature it starts to engage - a empirically determined temp - and changed to 15,000 CST silicone oil for stronger engagement when engaged)

Inukshuk said:

Truck felt hotter wheeling in Moab at the pre-run and A/C performance was not good on-trail. Truck temp gauge did not get too hot (all 80 temp gauges have a middle "dummy" spot where it does not move much. Can be modified and I did in LongCruiser but not here). Over 30MPH A/C was comfortably cold. A/C system is in good shape.

Saturday:
Re-did the foam at sides and bottom of 80 radiator (that I should have installed when I replaced the radiator two weeks ago) and added a 2x2" piece under the A/C condenser that seems to have been something that maybe existed from the factory a million years ago (it would help more air flow through condenser when not moving) and a 2x2" piece under the radiator that also may have been from the factory a million years ago (and may help keep some engine compartment air from recirculating under and back out front. I already had the top foam that is very important to keep hot engine compartment air from recirculating. Added much thinner and more compressible foam between fan shroud and radiator.

Installed Landtank modded new fan clutch (modded to verify and slightly lower the temperature it starts to engage - a empirically determined temp - and changed

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There's supposed to be foam around the radiator? Now you have me questioning the POs "new radiator" installation. If it's anything like all the other "upgrades" he did, I bet he just omitted them.

justcruisin said:

There's supposed to be foam around the radiator? Now you have me questioning the POs "new radiator" installation. If it's anything like all the other "upgrades" he did, I bet he just omitted them.

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Some for sure! See my thread at https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/go...-condenser-and-radiator.1378701/post-16279136

Inukshuk said:

Some for sure! See my thread at https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/go...-condenser-and-radiator.1378701/post-16279136

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Thanks for the pictures, Daniel! It figures I don't have any of those on my cruiser! And thank you for the links to Amazon. Saved me a bunch of time!

Cruise Moab last minute prep! Oil change and new pads and rotors on the LX and finally remembered to replace the air filter that is very full of Moab trips. New drop hitch for the trailer Lots of little things on the 40, put the hard doors back on and they needed some tuning up. Bled the clutch cylinders and she shifts smoother than ever. Topped off the tranny and tcase. We are just about ready to leave for Moab!

I made a mistake on 'not my rig' during assembly and didnt pay attention to bolt lengths on the timing cover. I used a bot just a couple mm too long in the wrong spot, and it pushed the timing plate away from the block and broke the seal. I was really dragging my feet on what to do about it. It was a pretty substantial leak but after moving the bolts to the correct spot, it came down to a quarter size drop after parking it. Was leaning toward just refunding some of the labor to the owner so they can deal with it if they were ever in there. If it were my rig, I probably would have left it alone. Got a drip pad or something and lived with it. But since someone is paying me for the work, I didn't feel great about that option. Shes in no rush to get it back so I bit the bullet. I will NEVER make that mistake again if I work on another 2f. To get the plate off and replace the gasket, the cam has to come out. That of course means a lot of things have to come apart. Rockers, lifters, distributor, fuel pump, etc. And to get the cam out I had to jack the engine up with a 2x4 so it would clear. FUN.

dan1554 said:

I made a mistake on 'not my rig' during assembly and didnt pay attention to bolt lengths on the timing cover.

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Oooof! Thanks goodness I've never done that one, yeah they're different lengths and have to be in the right spots. FSM and Haynes are both good about pointing that out. And of course you have to use sealant on the threads of the lower larger bolts.

Yeah it was one of those last mile things I couldn't imagine possibly going wrong so the fsm wasn't referenced for that step. Oooooops.

I still shake my fist at whoever engineered the timing plate.

Cruise Moab fix! Darn clutch on the 40 is leaking somewhere so need to refill and rebleed before the finale Sunset Cruise tonight. Weather cleared and it is a sunny beautiful day in Moab!

Replaced the stereo in the 80. Moved the original rosens back to the 80. Installed the new bigger ones in the 60.

Garage is cleaned out, ready to do some pre-season maintenance.

I bought the 80 a new front axle.
Ruff Stuff housing set up for a 9.5” 3rd member.
I have a 9.5 third on the shelf. I’ll need to regear and lock.
All my steering will work with this axle. My RCV’s should work too.
This winters project.
Install this axle
Lower the 80 2”
Redo the 3 link.
Cut fenders, add 40’s.
Hydro assist

DBA Rotors and Brakes Pads all around

My e-brake was a bit loose so I put the 200 rear axle on Jack stands and adjusted the ebrakes. Damn that Star wheel is hard to see. I adjusted to a hard stop and backed off until they started moving. One video said two clicks, one said 5. I played with it and until it felt good.

Tested it and the ebrake still was loose.

I would put it in drive with the ebrake engaged and it would slowly move

Then removed the cup holder and adjusted the nut with the brake disengaged.

Now it will hold the vehicle in Drive or Reverse with no gas. It will move slightly if you apply throttle

Pretty sure that shows it is working fine. To double check I went to check the TLCA Vehicle requirements for Cruise Moab and they don't list any for an Automatic, yet we have it on our Vehicle Inspection list.