MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Looking good Perry!New tires, alignment, some worn out steering components replaced and a free oil change (synthetic). Also got a new phone. Okay, this was over my weekend- so not today.
View attachment 99058
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What have you done to your rig today?
- Thread starter HoneyBadger
- Start date
Lastresort576
Hard Core 4+
J Kimmel
Hard Core 4+
Dubs.
Dubs. View attachment 99280View attachment 99281View attachment 99282
One of my old wheeling buddies from Texas just went dubs too. Yours looks awesome! As does his
One of my old wheeling buddies from Texas just went dubs too. Yours looks awesome! As does his
J Kimmel
Hard Core 4+
Wow that looks good
AlpineAccess
Hard Core 4+
Very busy weekend - around 20 hours in the driveway/garage.
New lower control arm bushings (no. 1 and no. 2 frame mount). This was a pretty big job but after finding the right method went smoothly and is something I'm glad is done.
New Lower ball joint on driver side. One of the 555 lower ball joints I replaced 25k ago had quite a bit more movement in it than the passenger side, so I replaced it. FYI Moog ball joints at advance auto are actually Sankei 555's from Japan, so that was a nice find despite the price.
Replaced bushings/ball joints in my upper SPC arms: I'd give the SPC arms a "meh" rating after 15k miles.
1. I ended up finding forward/backward slop in the X-Axis bushings after only 15k miles. These are a PITA to remove and press in. They send an adapter with it to use with the press. I would NOT RECOMMEND using this tool - it absolutely exploded on my press despite using it as instructed. I am incredibly fortunate that I was wearing my safety glasses - this piece hit them right on the lens and ended up all the way across the street from my house. I ended up pressing them in with a metal press adapter from the rental kit and it worked great.
2. I also replaced the SPC ball joints as they didn't feel tight anymore but I couldn't confirm they were the issue. I am getting a pop noise when turning and compressing that is indicative of ball joints. I couldn't feel slop in them but did them anyway.
*I did speak with SPC and they wouldn't warranty the arms as they already have the updated bushings and greaseable ball joints.
Drained and refilled front diff with synthetic gear lube. I did the diffs with dyno 80w90 last year and in the winter I get a bit of "whine" from the front end when fluid is really cold. The fluid didn't look fresh but also the magnet was clean and looked good overall.
Cleaned and Repacked wheel bearings, Spindle bearings, New hub seals. Switched from Timken dyno wheel bearing grease to synthetic lithium based wheel bearing grease just to test things out. Pre-tension was super easy this time around but am going to recheck it after a week or two. Doing water crossings this summer I could see a very small amount of water intrusion on the driver side so I'm glad I repacked them early. This before picture shows grease is still in great shape at 25k but I may have put soo much grease in when doing the spindle bearings and it presses out the back of the seal over time. I hand greased the spindles this time.
Greased prop shafts.
I still need to go back and reindex my torsion bars as something got a little funky in my hurry to get things back together.
New lower control arm bushings (no. 1 and no. 2 frame mount). This was a pretty big job but after finding the right method went smoothly and is something I'm glad is done.
New Lower ball joint on driver side. One of the 555 lower ball joints I replaced 25k ago had quite a bit more movement in it than the passenger side, so I replaced it. FYI Moog ball joints at advance auto are actually Sankei 555's from Japan, so that was a nice find despite the price.
Replaced bushings/ball joints in my upper SPC arms: I'd give the SPC arms a "meh" rating after 15k miles.
1. I ended up finding forward/backward slop in the X-Axis bushings after only 15k miles. These are a PITA to remove and press in. They send an adapter with it to use with the press. I would NOT RECOMMEND using this tool - it absolutely exploded on my press despite using it as instructed. I am incredibly fortunate that I was wearing my safety glasses - this piece hit them right on the lens and ended up all the way across the street from my house. I ended up pressing them in with a metal press adapter from the rental kit and it worked great.
2. I also replaced the SPC ball joints as they didn't feel tight anymore but I couldn't confirm they were the issue. I am getting a pop noise when turning and compressing that is indicative of ball joints. I couldn't feel slop in them but did them anyway.
*I did speak with SPC and they wouldn't warranty the arms as they already have the updated bushings and greaseable ball joints.
Drained and refilled front diff with synthetic gear lube. I did the diffs with dyno 80w90 last year and in the winter I get a bit of "whine" from the front end when fluid is really cold. The fluid didn't look fresh but also the magnet was clean and looked good overall.
Cleaned and Repacked wheel bearings, Spindle bearings, New hub seals. Switched from Timken dyno wheel bearing grease to synthetic lithium based wheel bearing grease just to test things out. Pre-tension was super easy this time around but am going to recheck it after a week or two. Doing water crossings this summer I could see a very small amount of water intrusion on the driver side so I'm glad I repacked them early. This before picture shows grease is still in great shape at 25k but I may have put soo much grease in when doing the spindle bearings and it presses out the back of the seal over time. I hand greased the spindles this time.
Greased prop shafts.
I still need to go back and reindex my torsion bars as something got a little funky in my hurry to get things back together.
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Mini is going solid!
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
I'm at the same place. Front axle greaseville. So nice when it's done right and you can drive and forget it. 🙂
Inukshuk
Rising Sun Member
Starting Saturday I took a thingy apart, replaced a thingy under it, and put it back together. Started it up tonight. VSV replacement complete! Some cleaning and new vac lines too.
After rebuilding the 1fz in my 80, I was putting off messing with the head gaskets in my fj62. Didn't realize it only takes about 3 hours to get to the gaskets. 5.3 for the win! Hoping this will resolve my issue of pushing coolant out the radiator every time I accelerate even slightly.
AlpineAccess
Hard Core 4+
Woah! What brand is that, and is it impact rated?
I would guess not but I have used it on impacts for years. No idea what brand it is. Found it in a house I was doing an ACM survey on that was slated for demo. It has last 10 years so I'd say I got my monies worth😂
I was standing on my 1/2" ratchet bouncing on it. I hope I don't break a lug trying to get this nut off! All this to access a skid plate bolt that I partially rounded already and just wanted to get a better angle on.
MDH33
Hard Core 4+
Thanks for reminding me to get some antiseize before I swap wheels and tires on my 40.
SameI'm at the same place. Front axle greaseville. So nice when it's done right and you can drive and forget it. 🙂
FJCDan
Rising Sun Member
Well after 33 years of service my 88' pick up finally let me down. I was heading out to get some mulch for the back yard and clutch started slipping and smoking bad. I was able to still drive it home without using the clutch. Gotta love Toyota. Now to figure out how to get it fixed. Maybe sitting for awhile.
J1000
Rising Sun Member
Headers and intermediate pipe install. Goddamn that is a lot of work. Thanks @DomOfTheDead for busting your knuckles I'd never have finished without your help no joke. This job is as hard as they say on the internet.
