Assuming I'm up and running this afternoon, what are the details on tomorrow's meeting?
Trigger Pulled
- Thread starter spectre6000
- Start date
LXBRADY
Hard Core 4+
7:30-9pm Stevenson Toyota.
Most arrive between 7-7:15 to bat the chat in the parkng lot before the meeting.
Raffle will be a good one......
Got the carb back together last night and got everything plumbed back in today. It fired up allright. I hear a hissing sound that I can't seem to place. It sounds like it might be the evap system box on the inner fender near the carb, but it's hard to track a quiet sound like that with the engine running right there. Can anyone tell me if a hissing sound is in any way expected (I've never dealt with emissions equipment), or do I need to track down a vacuum leak? It's also a bit on the stumbly side (further indication of a potential vacuum leak), but I didn't give it time to warm up or mess with the carb adjustments at all... Any thoughts?
rover67
Rising Sun Member
you can take a can of brake cleaner/carb cleaner and spray it around to find the leak. when the engine sucks it up the idle will change.
Propane works too (from an unlit torch tip)
Propane works too (from an unlit torch tip)
I'm headed down to town to pick up a steering damper and some hardware here in just a few minutes. Looks like and carb cleaner and vacuum hose are on the list as well... I was really hoping that was one of those cruiser eccentricities like the straight cut gear whine... The crappy thing is, I can hear it continue to hiss after I shut it off, but there's no way to get out and around fast enough to track it down...
Vacuum line that goes out of frame top right goes to the vacuum diaphragm on the carb (which tested fine by hand while I was rebuilding the carb). The one going to the left of that goes to the carb base. The other two go to the air pump and the distributor advance.
Vacuum line that goes out of frame top right goes to the vacuum diaphragm on the carb (which tested fine by hand while I was rebuilding the carb). The one going to the left of that goes to the carb base. The other two go to the air pump and the distributor advance.
cbmontgo
Hard Core 4+
I tracked down a vacuum "whistle" and the base of the carb on my FJ40 by putting a 1/2" stick of CPVC pipe (which can bend nicely) to my ear and listened for the leak at the other end. You can put this pipe in very small spaces and track down exactly where it is coming from.
RicardoJM
Hard Core 4+
As others have indicated, the hissing sound is very likely a vacuum leak. Looking at the photos, you still have the Vacuum Switching Valve (VSV) installed. I don't have any insight on how it should be connected up. If you decide to bypass it; you will need a connection from the carb base to the choke pull off diaphram and then the connection from ported vaccum to the dizzy - everything else (if it exists) on the carb can be capped off.
I THINK I have it narrowed down to either the brake booster, or the hose from the intake manifold to the brake booster. It builds vacuum fine at the pedal (insofar as I think it should... Never had this variety of brakes), and I can't hear well enough to trace it with the carb cleaner trick... If I had a second pair of hands, I could shut it off and play with the carb cleaner while it's the only thing audible. Are brake boosters prone to any known vacuum related faults?
Are they straight bolt in replacements?
Yes! They can be different physical sizes so as long as the brake lines can move they should be a direct swap.
RicardoJM
Hard Core 4+
Pretty much so however some are more straight forward than others. I have a 3rd generation 4 runner booster; the larger diameter covers one of the bolt holes for my clutch master. Some mini-truck boosters have a spacer that you want to bring over. IIRC, Subzali is running an FJ60 booster which was a straight forward swap.
With any replacement, you will want to take the extra step of checking the pushrod depth to insure it is correct. If it is not correct it will result in the brake hydraulics constantly building pressure and lock the brakes solid after a few stops.
Generally, these brake boosters are very reliable. To test it, use a vacuum pump to build about 15 and see that it holds for a half hour. If the booster passes that test, your issue is likely a faulty check valve or crack in the hose going to the manifold.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
the runner booster has more boost than the 60 booster.
I swapped my 60's booster and noticed a big difference. they bolted up the same too.
do the carb cleaner trick with it actually running and spray it all over till you find the leak. places to check are around vacuum lines/fittings, around the carb, and around the head to manifold interface.
I swapped my 60's booster and noticed a big difference. they bolted up the same too.
do the carb cleaner trick with it actually running and spray it all over till you find the leak. places to check are around vacuum lines/fittings, around the carb, and around the head to manifold interface.
Part of my problem is that it doesn't seem to affect idle at all, and all I have to go on is a hiss. When I shut it down it's very obvious, but I can't get around the a-pillar with the carb cleaner fast enough to catch it... I'm going to give it another try as soon as I get home from picking my wife up at work (we're down to one car until I get this pig on the road). A second set of hands and hopefully a little daylight will go a long way... Wish me luck and hope it's a hose or some other minor thing instead of the booster itself.
Finally got a helper! Fired it up, and it more or less immediately ran out of gas... Clogged fuel filter. I bought extra elements when I got the filter, so it won't take much, but that's still a real kick in the teeth. It's dark now, and too cold for functional fingers (let alone fingers drenched in gasoline), so I'll have deal with it tomorrow... Tomorrow is the last warmish day of the year from the looks of it, so hopefully I can get it good!
Does anyone know any radiator shops in the area that will do gas tanks?