Trigger Pulled

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Mar 25, 2012
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Coal Creek Canyon
I believe the connector is called a 7mm Bayonet connector. NAPA part# WIP 601140 is the correct size and has the correct adapter (according to their website). There's only one available in the area, anything else would cost extra.

Additionlly, Trico part# 15110 may work (I'm headed down to pick one up from O'Reilly here in a bit). That's a brand owned by Amsoil (or the same parent company), and has some sort of Teflon feature.... According to the counter guy, it does have A bayonet connector in it, but it doesn't state what size...

'74 doesn't show up in any FLAPS computers with the correct blade, but '78-'82 (odd cutoff year there) does show the Amsoil blade... Interesting. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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Trico 11-1 (or maybe 1-11) fits like a charm without an adapter. The way they have it positioned I'm thinking it's a cheapie, but it'll work in the near term (I'll worry about it in more detail later when my plate isn't so full). I haven't installed them yet (I just test fit it there in the parking lot) because I'm going to be getting a new windshield in the very near future, but I think they'll work just fine.

Also, they took my core! I was a bit concerned about it being exploded and all...

Finally, It started up (multiple times) and drove with no drama, hiccups, or causes for concern. I want to get with Ricardo soon to take care of the fine tuning, but I think we just entered DD classification! Woo! :cheers: :beer: :cool: :D :drink: :cheer: :party: :beer2: :clap: :perry: :risingsun: :woot:
 

corsair23

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Congrats on getting the 40 moved into the DD classification :thumb:
 
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I'm in the lobby of Bud's Muffler getting the leaky (and extremely poorly built) exhaust replaced. Also getting an o2 bung while I'm at it for some wide and tuning. I don't know if I mentioned it here, but I richened things up after emissions testing to be on the safe side. I'm really looking forward to getting it dialed in... If my Wednesday meetings don't go long, I'm going to try to come to the meeting at Stevinson. Fingers crossed!
 
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New exhaust. New windshield. Wipers turned out to be crap, and while they fit there isn't enough tension on the arm to keep them in a functional capacity.

Also, the other night I noticed my dash lights were non-functional and was informed that my taillights were out, but turn signals and such were functional... Fuse was out. Got new fuses yesterday and replaced the one this morning. This evening though, the tail lights and dash lights were out again. Didn't get a chance to check the fuse... Given the amount of rust that was in the tail light housing when I replaced the bulb, I think my gremlin might reside therein... I'll try to investigate tomorrow and order whatever seems most culpable along with the wiper blades.
 

subzali

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Definitely check and clean your fuse block and every ground you can find. Are your dash lights on a dimmer?
 

OilHammer

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Definitely check and clean your fuse block and every ground you can find. Are your dash lights on a dimmer?

I didn't catch the year, but if it's like my old 74, the switch grounds to the back of the dash itself. I had to pull the switch, clean the back of the dash and switch face and reinstall. I chased that gremlin for YEARS....headlights showed pos power on both leads, heater didn't work, all kinds of wonky.

Clean your grounds, and all your fuse contacts. It's worth the time.
 

SteveH

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A way to determine if your fuse holders have high resistance is if they get hot when a particular accessory is being used. Mine did! Put your fingers on the fuse when you have (for instance) the headlights on.

Use a bronze .22 cal gun cleaning brush in an electric drill to clean the fuse holder contacts.
 
Joined
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299
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Coal Creek Canyon
Yup. I have the circuit isolated, it's just a matter of time allocation at this point.

TailLightFuse_zpsfe701434.png


I believe (and it was pretty hard to see out there in the dark last night) that the fuse is actually in tact, so it's possible the previous fuse wasn't up to the task and something burned up... Alternatively, it's common to have the switch itself acting as a fuse of sorts, though I think if it were tripped at that level the associated elements (headlights) wouldn't function so I'm probably safe there. I did notice when replacing the previously burned out tail light bulb that the housings have been underwater for a time. If I'm to start cleaning grounds, that's my beachhead. I'll get out there later today (time permitting) and check out what on the circuit is good and what's bad, and probably clean the tail light housings up a bit and see if it helps.

Meanwhile, I noticed yesterday that at about 65mph the back end starts to shimmy as if it's either out of alignment (which I don't think is really an option on these, but I haven't looked into it too deeply yet) or the tires are out of balance... Gotta get that fixed.

Additionally, there's the rattle in the transfer case linkage that needs to be tightened/adjusted out.

There's a weird noise at idle. I think (and this is my aircooled ignorance showing) it sounds like a bubble or something in a coolant coolant line somewhere close to the firewall possibly associated with the cabin heat. Really not something I'm familiar with.

I also noticed a noise at idle that I have traced to a bearing (front if my ears are still any good) in the input shaft... The best way I can think to describe it is like a large ball bearing (the sort one finds in a transmission like this) that's a bit loose (which is exactly what it is, but the default bearing sound is a whine). It goes away if I push the shifter into the 2nd gear synchro (hence input shaft). I need to check the fluid level.

At some point also, I need to adjust the steering box and the drag link to tighten and recenter the steering wheel....

Finally, I want to get with Ricardo soon to get the carb dialed in. It's very difficult (read: I'm not that good) to tune a carb by ear in a car in which one has never experienced a proper tune. Even then, that hunk o' cast iron is probably pretty tired... Rings and a head job may be in my future over the coming months, it's really hard to tell with no baseline experience.

The list is stacking up! Meanwhile, things with my company are finally picking up, so my ability to tear through projects is rapidly diminishing. I spent all day yesterday getting the exhaust and windshield handled, and I have some catching up to do...

EDIT (Steve posted while I was posting): The fuse block is really clean. There's actually not a lot of rust on the truck and the wiring is, on the whole, in really good shape (it's on my pre-purchase inspection checklist).
 

subzali

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Just a note, I had to clean my taillight assembly several times before really getting it clean enough to work properly. Dielectric grease is your friend after that.

With your shimmy, it could be a bent wheel, but they probably would have noticed that when you had new tires mounted. You might try rotating it to the front end to see if the shimmy goes away. Steering damper and shock absorbers in good shape?

With your other idle noise, is the input bearing on your transmission going bad? Does it go away when the clutch is depressed?

Just throwing out ideas.
 
Joined
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Coal Creek Canyon
I'm about to go out there and fiddle with the tail lights. I have very strong suspicions that will be a short chore, but gremlins are notoriously difficult to eliminate (I usually take the shotgun approach, but this car is a decade and a half newer than what I'm usually faced with and in much better shape).

I'm 99% sure a wheel weight came off. It was fine the other day, and it's not like I've done anything that might bend a wheel in the interim. I'll go down to where I had the tires installed tomorrow morning and have them rectify it (it won't cost me anything). If it is bent, I'll swap in the spare. It hasn't been going on long enough to tell me which tire it is via wear patterns.

The noise occurs when I sit at a stop light or something in neutral. The input shaft gets spinning, and as soon as I clutch in and stop the rotation (i.e. push it against a synchro or put it in gear) it goes away. It's either a tired bearing or low fluid.
 
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I decided to take advantage of the warm, sunny, and not very windy day and take care of a few things on the 40 To Do list. First, I tracked down my short. As expected, it was in the tail light housing. The fuse was blown, and as best I can tell it blew the second I turned the headlights on. Following the circuit brought me to only a few possible places. I knew the PS tail light housing was fairly rusty, so I pulled both lenses. The DS housing wasn't very bad at all, and the PS one was still nasty.
1-1_zps07ae8d04.jpg

I pulled the bulbs on the PS side (the glass in the reverse light bulb has separated from the metal base), and right away found my short.
2-1_zpsfc1267b0.jpg

If you look really closely, you can see where the corrosion between the contact point (positive) and the side of the housing (negative) are very close, and the rust (iron oxide III, which is marginally ferrous) is bridging the gap. I cleaned it up with some sand paper, nudged the contact toward the center a bit, replaced the fuse and the bulb (left the reverse light out for the purpose of having it on hand to source the replacement), et viola! tail lights function with no shorting.
3-1_zps043a9375.jpg


While I was at it, I checked the engine oil (a bit low from either leakage or burning... not sure which yet), trans fluid (fine), checked the transfer case linkage (it's loose, but it seems to be from wear), and finally cleaned it out and installed the SOR floor mats I got a while back.
 
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Coal Creek Canyon
Query: I replaced the brake booster several pages back, and I'm a bit curious about brake boosters (this is the first time I've ever messed with one). The original booster seems to have braked better (I recall that I maybe could have locked up the tires) than the new one despite an audible vacuum leak. The new one is better than no booster, but it's not strong enough to lock up the tires. I thought I read somewhere that there might be something of a break in period for a new booster, but I just looked and couldn't find anything to that effect. Should I be expecting the brakes to be less than stellar, are they all less than stellar, or should i be trying to figure out why the brakes are less than I feel they should be?
 

SteveH

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Good progress! You might want to eventually replace that taillight housing down the road, when you find a nice one at the Rising Sun parts swap.

A brake booster should not need any break-in period. I have 33x9.5s on my truck and it's not great about locking all 4, unless you really get on it hard. In a true panic stop, my rears lock first, which is fairly scary in a short wheelbase vehicle. I would try to drive a few other 40s to get a feel for what their brakes feel like.
 

Jacket

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In a true panic stop, my rears lock first, which is fairly scary in a short wheelbase vehicle.

No ****! Happened to me last night on the way home. No fun at all.
 

subzali

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Good progress! You might want to eventually replace that taillight housing down the road, when you find a nice one at the Rising Sun parts swap.

A brake booster should not need any break-in period. I have 33x9.5s on my truck and it's not great about locking all 4, unless you really get on it hard. In a true panic stop, my rears lock first, which is fairly scary in a short wheelbase vehicle. I would try to drive a few other 40s to get a feel for what their brakes feel like.

No ****! Happened to me last night on the way home. No fun at all.

Mine has been doing that ever since I rebuilt my rear brakes. I think I have them adjusted too tight. I've just kinda been waiting for the shoes to wear down, but maybe I should adjust the shoes back a bit.

To spectre, it seems strange that a faulty/leaky brake booster would work better than a good brake booster. What style brake booster is the new one?
 

kurtnkegger

Rising Sun Member
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Jan 24, 2011
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Denver Burbs
If the booster is from a newer vehicle? I replaced my old booster with a newer one from a early 90's 4runner, perhaps it needs the single direction valve for the vacuum line? Air pushing back and forth could be a cause for weaker booster....Just a thought....
 
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Both were stock '74 40-series. The check valve is a new one. The difference in feeling may be faulty memory, and it's not like I ever had the original one out on the highway or anything. I gave it a good stomp at a last minute red and had the back attempt a step out. I assume that's what we're talking about. I just checked he booster (depress brake pedal, shut down, feel pedal fall or however it was) and it checks out. With the step out being as it was, I'm going to tighten up the fronts a click or two and see if that part is rectfied. It may just be that '70s vintage brake boosters and '00s vintage brake boosters are a different breed and its just my own lack of familiarity with the animal.
 
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Well... I was really hoping to make it to tonight's meeting, but I'm still in meetings coming up on 8... My business partner is interested in coming as well (he drives a '96 4Runner), but we have to get this pig to market.
 

subzali

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So I don't know if this will help or if you care any more, but here's a quick video I shot yesterday of my 40 starting up after sitting for a month. I thought later that pumping the accelerator pedal would have done nothing if the float bowl really was empty. I didn't check before turning it over, it's just habit to pump the gas. I have a NAPA reman starter, not a gear-reduction starter. And a few-year-old Autozone battery.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80NoKbnJkik&feature=youtu.be

And a little entertainment on my first try to take a video...:D

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N6orazBLpG8&feature=youtu.be
 
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