Tech Tip and a Question - Alloy Wheels on an FJ60

[Rzeppa]

So my Duratracs were getting long in the tooth and thin on the tread depth. And my chromed steel wheels were starting to rust. I'd link it if I could find it quick but I'm being lazy right now to find the tire comparison article thread on here. Anyhoo, I decided to give those highly rated Cooper AT3s a try. Turns out steel rims are becoming unobtanium, so I chose a nice set of ProComp alloys , ordered everything in and had Discount mount them and balance them. I loaded them into the bed of my FJ45 pickup and drove home. When I went to put them on I encountered some problems. #1, my 21mm air impact socket didn't fit into the new, deep recesses for the lug nuts, and #2, the new thicker alloy 16x8 rims rubbed on my steering arms where the thinner steel 16x8s didn't.

So I got new lug nuts that were 19mm across the flats so I could get a socket in there, and threw on 1/4" spacers I used to use for 15x8 wheels to clear the steering arms. I'm still not super happy with the 4 fewer threads the lug nuts engage versus without the spacers, and think I might go back to open lug nuts, as they have about 2 more threads at the taper end than the acorn nuts. What I'd prefer is longer front wheel studs, but between Carquest, Cruiser Outfitters, SOR, Stevinson West and cool cruisers, it seems no one knows where to get longer front wheel studs. As I told everyone I talked to, I can't imagine I am the only one in the world that threw alloy rims on a 60 and suddenly discovered thay needed 1/4" spacers and now don't have a comforting number of threads for their lug nuts up front. Does anyone know where to find longer wheel studs for the front hubs of a disk 40/55/60?

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

Not to distract too much from your thread but you're going to LOVE those AT3s! I just put a set on the Hundy and it made it feel like a new car! No snow driving yet but I'm confident they will perform well.

As far as the studs go, I've been down this rabbit hole before as well and I had to just pop one of the studs out, measure it, go to the parts store and try out different studs listed under different vehicles until I found one that worked. When I put alloy wheels on the 80, well, newer alloy wheels, I had to get longer studs too. I ended up asking for a newer Tacoma stud, compared the two, saw the thread pitch was still the same and that the length was where I wanted it and bought a set online.

Because Mr. T shared parts between vehicles for so long in the early days, I'd be willing to bet that mini truck studs are the same shoulder width and thread pitch so that might be a good place to start. Really the shoulder width is the only thing you really need to worry about. Thread pitch can be dealt with by new nuts.

 

[Rzeppa]

Thanks Nic! I did try that at Carquest, maybe I can get better success at NAPA? Like I said, Cruiser Outfitters, SOR, CCoT and Stevinson West were no help. FWIW, almost all Toyotas have a 12 x 1.5mm thread pitch, even my wife's Yaris and RAV4. On a 60 (unlike a 40) the studs go through the rotors and the shoulders seat on the rotors, even though the splines seat in the hub. Having to take my hubs off to get at the studs, I discovered a broken dowel pin! Need to get that fixed before I go wheeling again in this rig!

 

[FJCDan]

X’2 on the AT3’s had P series tires on our 4th gen 4Runner, felt like a boat on choppy water. Though at first it might be worn out XREAS suspension. Found a used set for cheap and made a world of difference on the road and off.

 

[DaveInDenver]

I ended up asking for a newer Tacoma stud, compared the two, saw the thread pitch was still the same and that the length was where I wanted it and bought a set online.

On a 60 (unlike a 40) the studs go through the rotors and the shoulders seat on the rotors, even though the splines seat in the hub.

The rotors on 1995+ Tacomas hang on the outside of the hub and are held in place sandwiched between the hub flange and wheel when you snug the lug nuts. Like I assume your RAV4 or Yaris. As a result they are longer than the old mini truck assembly where we pressed the rotors on the back of the hub and they had their own set of bolts. Makes sense that they'd be at least 1/4" longer just due to the rotor casting thickness. Wouldn't surprise me if the flange shoulders were the same, too.

BTW, ARP offers extended beyond stock wheel studs for Toyotas AFAIK. I know they do for mini trucks and Tacomas anyway.

 

[Stuckinthe80s]

On a 60 (unlike a 40) the studs go through the rotors and the shoulders seat on the rotors, even though the splines seat in the hub.

I did not know that. That is good info right there!

I found this part number on MUD:

https://niceproducts.com.au/product/s3330-long-wheel-studs/

It seemed to work for a 40 and it popped up in a 60 thread:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/where-can-i-get-longer-wheel-studs.466733/page-2#post-10006018

 

[Corbet]

From memory ARP makes a longer wheel stud for 80 series. Maybe call Justin at Redline. Pretty sure he was the one who told me about them, might be able to help.

 

[Rzeppa]

80 series studs are different than 60 series, see below 60 series:

And 80 series:

 

[Corbet]

Yes but maybe ARP makes a 60 series stud also? Personally I’ve never had reason to look.

 

[White Stripe]

I believe early 80s Toyota pickups had 1/4" longer studs. Rock auto has measurements

 

[74fj40]

not sure what wheel your planning on using, but if you go with an aftermarket wheel most offer an extended thread lug but that negates the need for a longer stud.

 

[Rzeppa]

I believe early 80s Toyota pickups had 1/4" longer studs. Rock auto has measurements

Do they have the same type of studs? See the images I posted...

 

[Rzeppa]

not sure what wheel your planning on using, but if you go with an aftermarket wheel most offer an extended thread lug but that negates the need for a longer stud.

I already bought and installed the wheels, see the first post. The picture you posted is of a lug nut, not a stud. The issue is that the wheels I bought are alloy to replace the steel wheels I had. The alloy wheels are thicker and the inside edges were rubbing on the steering arms. To clear the steering arms I had to add 1/4" spacers. Because of using the spacers I have 4 fewer threads for the lug nuts to engage with the studs, so I was looking for longer studs, not deeper lug nuts.

 

[White Stripe]

Do they have the same type of studs? See the images I posted...

I thought so but it's been a while.

 

[74fj40]

I already bought and installed the wheels, see the first post. The picture you posted is of a lug nut, not a stud. The issue is that the wheels I bought are alloy to replace the steel wheels I had. The alloy wheels are thicker and the inside edges were rubbing on the steering arms. To clear the steering arms I had to add 1/4" spacers. Because of using the spacers I have 4 fewer threads for the lug nuts to engage with the studs, so I was looking for longer studs, not deeper lug nuts.

Yeah... I read your post. Obviously it’s not a picture of a stud 🙄.

An extended thread lug nut is not “deeper”. It has a 1/4” shoulder that captures threads by threading further into the lug hole in the wheel, not just the tapered seat of the wheel.

 

[DaveInDenver]

Yeah... I read your post. Obviously it’s not a picture of a stud 🙄.

An extended thread lug nut is not “deeper”. It has a 1/4” shoulder that captures threads by threading further into the lug hole in the wheel, not just the tapered seat of the wheel.

Looks like their official name is exactly descriptive as "extended thread" to solve just such a problem.

All Pro even sells plain open end E.T. M12x1.5 lugs for $1/each.

https://allprooffroad.com/accessories/extended-thread-lug-nuts-m12x1-5mm.html

"These 12mm and 14mm x 1.5mm extended thread lug nuts ensure that there is more thread engagement on the relatively short factory studs. These are required to install front wheel spacers, though recommended for the rear as well."

 

[nakman]

Somewhere around here I have a set of longer wheel studs for a 60 that I'm not using. I bought them thinking I could also run those 1/4" spacers but I couldn't get rid of vibration, so I went with a 1" wheel spacer that's bolt-on. And I bought them from Stevenson, but also called them with the part number as the first time I called they had no idea. I can look around later if you need these Jeff.

 

[nakman]

Jeff here is the part number: Toyota Part No.:90942-02053 I remember that I posted that to this thread, just in case it came up again: https://risingsun4x4club.org/xf/threads/60-series-brake-line-upgrade.29755/#post-350509 and I found that number searching mud, ultimately landing on this thread https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/longer-wheel-studs.278894/


I think they were about $8.50 each, and I bought 12 of them. After about 30 minutes looking for them today I then remembered that I used them after all, having flashbacks to hammering late into the evening. And then even though it turned out I didn't need them. So now I just have more threads holding my 1" wheel spacers on... sorry about that.

 

[Rzeppa]

Awesome, thanks Tim! I ordered a set in from Stevinson and they should be here in a week or so they said. I remembered your brake line thread but forgot you talked about longer studs too. FWIW, when I take the calipers off my 60 I just let them hang there by the short hard line. Saves having to unhook the brake line and then bleed after reassembly.

 

[Rzeppa]

Not to distract too much from your thread but you're going to LOVE those AT3s! I just put a set on the Hundy and it made it feel like a new car! No snow driving yet but I'm confident they will perform well.

Well, with Sunday's and yesterday's snow and ice I got a chance to try out those AT3s and I can definitely say that they don't do as well as the Duratracs.