Subzali’s 1FZ-FE head gasket repair - turbeaucruiser
- Thread starter subzali
- Start date
It was a weld repair. Gouged the crack, drilled a hole at the end. High nickel rod, preheat, and cool down in sand. Supposedly. I dunno. He couldn’t get the welder tip to the entirety of the crack though, so no surprise here. This new crack is along the side of the weld, so I don’t think it’s a continuation of the same original crack.
Maybe it should have been postweld heat treated. Or maybe this was inevitable in any case.
wesintl
Moderator
who welded it? take it to Harbert casting repair service and see what they say
It was a welding instructor I found from one of the tech schools around here.
I will definitely take it to Harbert now though and see what they say.
Got the oil dumped, it looks perfect.
Dumped the coolant, maybe I will test it for exhaust gases and see.
Got all the manifold and down pipe nuts off and turbo oil and coolant hoses disconnected, so it’s free to move around. But I can’t get it out because the exhaust won’t move far enough for me to squeeze it out. So I’m taking the manifold studs out and will see if I can get it then.
Small steps.
wesintl
Moderator
Does safari sell just the manifold?
No. They haven’t sold it in years. It doesn’t even look like they carry turbo components for 80s any more at all. They used to support 1HZ/1HD turbo upgrades including intercoolers but I don’t see that on their site any more.
Turboglide has a similar manifold that they might possibly sell me.
Lastresort576
Hard Core 4+
You’ll get there eventually. That’s how I had to do my hg.Throttle body off before dinner. Valve cover almost off but ran out of time to wrestle the last two hoses off. That’s how it’s going to go. 30 minutes. 20 minutes. 15 minutes at a time.
Another hour this morning. Valve cover off.
Picture of the factory half moons sealant
Amazingly the EGR nut didn’t put up a fight. It was like it was hand tight.
Almost all of the upper intake bolts and nuts off. Struggling to get to the rearmost nut. Might have to take off the starter to get to it.
Started following along with the OTRAMM video to help me with tackling things in an efficient order.
Picture of the factory half moons sealant
Amazingly the EGR nut didn’t put up a fight. It was like it was hand tight.
Almost all of the upper intake bolts and nuts off. Struggling to get to the rearmost nut. Might have to take off the starter to get to it.
Started following along with the OTRAMM video to help me with tackling things in an efficient order.
Harbert gave me the long face. They said they repair castings using brazing often but exhaust manifolds are just too hot and too much thermal cycling. And welding will inevitably crack again.
So I got my extended time with this one by having it repaired once, and now I need to pony up or de-turbo it looks like
. I mean I guess I could contact the guy who did it the first time and see if he’s willing to do it again, but it’s clear it’s only delaying the inevitable. I got about two years out of the repair. Not even that though; it had an audible leak starting within a handful of months.
So I got my extended time with this one by having it repaired once, and now I need to pony up or de-turbo it looks like
. I mean I guess I could contact the guy who did it the first time and see if he’s willing to do it again, but it’s clear it’s only delaying the inevitable. I got about two years out of the repair. Not even that though; it had an audible leak starting within a handful of months.
Rzeppa
Rising Sun Member
After I cracked my exhaust manifold on my 1971 FJ40 by smashing the downpipe on the rocks too many times at Cruise Moab 2000 (see my avatar at left, before locker I had to use the skinny pedal a lot more LOL), I welded it back up. I'd say it lasted maybe 2 years or so before it re-cracked where I welded it. Rob Meredith gave me his downpipe that tucks under the skid plate when he did his V8 conversion and acquiring a replacement exhaust manifold for an old F engine is pretty easy. Finding one with a working butterfly valve can be tricky though, they get rusty and stuck open then the hot exhaust wants to crack the intake where they meet.
wesintl
Moderator
what turbo is that matt? looks like there are options https://www.treadstoneperformance.com/toyota-land-cruiser-1fzfe-turbo-manifold/p103826 https://binjumah.net/en-us/products/turbo-manifold-1fz-cast-iron-1 and a few jpipes for stock manifolds. Might have to do some repiping but that isn't too bad... https://hdautomotive.com.au/product...ztzc5rbZEqtNCHPuIWzafJ30mVR3PcNePse1R5_3n9DsF, Turboglide?
That J-pipe is similar to my Witt’s end system. Keeping the OEM manifolds is a good thing IMHO.
Treadstone is an option. Turboglide might be another option that I know has been used to replace a Safari manifold. It’ll be a fitment experiment though with either. Turboglide is closer to Safari location.
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wesintl
Moderator
you just need to figure out what exhaust housing you have. A T4 maybe?
Mine is a T3. So I guess that won't work with the Treadstone. Dang.
wesintl
Moderator
There are plenty of T3 to T4 housing adapters... just have to check hood spacing and redo some piping
I used a toyota 13bt manifold with an adapter to a t3 (i think, it's been so long) turbo.
I used a toyota 13bt manifold with an adapter to a t3 (i think, it's been so long) turbo.
rover67
Rising Sun Member
I mean $80 will fix that....
www.dieselpowersource.com
T4 to T3 Turbocharger Exhaust Manifold Flange Adapter
DPS T4 to T3 Adapter Manifold to Turbocharger Flange Our adapter flange makes it possible to convert your T3 to T4 Turbocharger to Manifold.
www.dieselpowersource.com