RTZ's 98 4runner

rushthezeppelin

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Wiring cleanup for done today with an auxbeam six gang switch. Even hooked my locker harness into one of the spots so now I have an arming switch for the main switch. Little redundancy to avoid accidental activation since I don't have the nanny system of the stock wiring for lockers. Also got a new battery. Old one was testing fine still but they went with the lowest cold cranking amps so I bumped that up a bit since she's sluggish to start on really cold days. Also was leaking a bit of acid and cortisone things. It was 3 1/2 years old anyway.
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Now I'm all setup to wire in my winch!!
 

rushthezeppelin

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Well the clunk still wasn't fully solved with UCAs. After some investigation I also noticed my slip yolk grease fitting was hitting the tank skid. Replaced it with a grub screw and premium is solved. Also slathered some fipg on the bottom of my diff where the leak is. Unfortunately it's still leaking but it's super slow still.
 
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rushthezeppelin

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Great alignment numbers at Tru Automotive today. Also nice to see the numbers on the rear, tells me that the donor axle housing for the elocker wasn't bent out of shape. She's driving wonderfully right now. Even the tech commented that, always nice to have the opinion of someone who probably drives in 3rd gens in various conditions all the time say that. He even noticed my previous alignment paint marks and put some new ones on there.
 

DaveInDenver

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Whoever did you alignment looks to have spent some time on it. Nice. I've seen a couple of recent ones that the wrench wasn't trying too hard, just got greens and sent it out the door.
 

rushthezeppelin

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Whoever did you alignment looks to have spent some time on it. Nice. I've seen a couple of recent ones that the wrench wasn't trying too hard, just got greens and sent it out the door.
Honestly he maybe spent 35-40 minutes tops on it between the alignment and the test drive. I'm definitely always going to to Tru for alignments after one time with them (had a seized cam then but they did the best they could) and going to a buddy who at the time worked for Brakes Plus (who I'm sure does great but didn't have experience with lifted vehicles and didn't know to put a good amount of caster on there) and then going back to Tru today. They just know Yotas really well and that experience shows. Pay a bit more for it but I have confidence that they know how to get things in spec and, just as importantly, properly tight so I won't be going back hopefully for a long time
 

Notyourmomslx450

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Whoever did you alignment looks to have spent some time on it. Nice. I've seen a couple of recent ones that the wrench wasn't trying too hard, just got greens and sent it out the door.
The dude that does the alignments at TRU is probably the best there is.
He used to be at RSG...
 

rushthezeppelin

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rushthezeppelin

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Sweet I have sliders! Now I need to find time to get out and scratch them up lol.
 

rushthezeppelin

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Alright I dare say I figured out the clunk finally (for all I know though maybe it will just come back in 2 days lol). Those stupid QD links that aren't really all that quick I think is what caused it. Took those off and drove around making hard turns in a parking lot nothing. Reconnected my old 555 links (that are actually easier to QD with a 12mm and a 17mm lol) and still nothing. I think the heim joints were maxxing out and making a clunk between the pin and the material (delrin?) that the joint rides in. On one hand I'm a little pissed that I wasted 125 on those things. On the other hand though chasing that clunk lead me to find two bad UBJs and just yesterday also realizing that one of my LBJs is already going bad after only like 10k >< Ultimately that poorly spent 125 might have saved me A LOT more money if any of those ball joints had failed. Ended up throwing on the Moog that I took off of there that was still plenty tight while I get a new OEM one ordered up.
 

rushthezeppelin

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Ohhh even better got to thinking and I actually I might not have even wasted money on them entirely. So I need to get a relocation bracket to put my rear sway bar back on and Sonoran Steel highly recommends having stock sway bar length with that bracket. I've been running my front links in the rear (rears that were on the truck got bent up bad with 3" lift) when I was just on an open diff but the sway bar was hitting my locker when I did that swap so I've been running no rear bar. I checked and it turns out when shortened all the way those QDs actually are about the same length I think as the stock length for the rear (they are about an inch shorter than the front links) so I can probably use those as really beefy rear links and just not even worry about the QD feature. The best part is they are cheaper than the OEM links lol.
 

rushthezeppelin

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Winch installed finally! Even managed to fab up a bracket for my winch cutoff out of some 16ga steel. Thanks to @DanielChase for letting me use his garage and borrow some tools to get this done. Going to take a break now from anything not maintenance. Looking forward to just getting out and wheeling and putting all the new gear through is paces.
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rushthezeppelin

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Got a chance for a quick jaunt on an easy trail I like above Idaho Springs that has a great spot for flex shots.
 

FJCDan

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rushthezeppelin

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